iceblue

1988 GTU is this car setup with high or low impedance injectors? I keep hearing that there is a pre and post 1987 set. The post setup having high impediance > 1987.5 And the pre having low impedance 1986 to < 1987.5

I swaped a 1987 TII motor into this car. So can it be tru that I have differ impedance injectors? And by turning the key ON that it blew my injectors?

If this is so what do I need to do?

WAYNE88N/A

Yeah, the '87 would have had the low-imp setup, and the '88, if built after Jun '87 would have had the hi-imp guys.

Did you actually BLOW them? I would think the ECU injector drivers would fry before the injectors would...

iceblue

I have no clue if I blew them up or not. When the key is placed to ON I hear a small pop each time.

So I have differ impedances what should I do?

andrewb70

It's "impedance".

Andrew

iceblue

Happy now?

WAYNE88N/A

Well, first off you're going to need to verify that the injectors are good or bad- pull 'em out, and read each injector coil out with a meter. This will also tell you whether they really are in fact low-imp injectors (2-3 ohms for the low, 11-13 ohms for the high-imp). If the injectors seem good, and you're not getting fuel after checking out the fuel supply system, then look at the ECU next...

iceblue

Ok thanks. Lets pretend that the injectors are good and the ECU is good. However I confirmed just now that they are low and high. So now i have LOW in a HIGH car. Must I buy new injectors are can I use a resistor or something? I have the whol front clip of the turbo car in my yard.

Whizbang

what is the N### of the ECU your are using? if it is the N332 it can in conjunction with the low impedance injectors. the N333 came with the high impedance versions. but keep in mind that the impedance of the injectors is afffected by the resistor block and not the ecu. meaning, that you can use either ECU but if the injectors are low impedance versions, you need to have the resistor block.

now to identitfy injectors...

86-87 13B NA, low square center, 460cc, red, <---should not have
86-87 13B Turbo, low square center, 550cc, tan,
88 13B NA, high square offset, 460cc, purple, <-- should not have
88 13B Turbo, high square offset, 550cc, purple,
89-91 13B NA, high oval center, 460cc, red, <-- should not have

and for no reason should you mix the impedances. you can but you must have the low impedance injectors run through the resistor block.

89-91 13B Turbo, high oval center, 550cc, purple,

Whizbang

you can use the resistor block found in all 87.5 and lower year production cars. this is found in the front left of the engine bay attach to the wheel well. looks like a silver rectangle. with have to modifiy a bit to use. or you can get the proper injectors in a high impedance.

iceblue

Here are the ECU's I have.
Turbo front clip ECU "Motor I swaped" N327 I allso used the motor harness from here.
Car manufactured ECU the ECu the car came with N318

There was a small rectangle metal box attached to the motor harness TII that was part of the Presure sensor and MAF sensor harnes section it is the farthest taild item in the chain. I did swap this with it and evrything that was attached to the harness. There was allso another one like this attached behinde the head light "JDM" drivers side this was part of the body harness it has a 6pin circle connector, intaind in it is a small relay and a metal box that loks like it could be a resistor. This was unswapable i did not have the plug behinde ither tail light on my NA car body.


Acording to this did I do evrything necisary? Should it be working? I cranked and cranked and pulld out spark plugs and had no sign of fule. "fule pump working" Not getting spark ither.

Whizbang

Series 4
N326 - Natural Aspiration w/low impedance
N327 - Natural Aspiration w/ high impedance
N332 - Turbo w/ low impedance injectors (pre-July 1987)
N333 - Turbo w/ high impedance injectors

Series 5
N350 - Natural Aspiration
N351 - Natural Aspiration
N352 - Natural Aspiration
N353 - Natural Aspiration
N370 - Turbo

these are all of the ECU's that i know of. only one i am not sure about is the Vert...anyhow

Whizbang

here is the problem, your ecu. and the N318 is new to me as a ECU code....is normally a parts number designation to denote the difference between the n/a and turbo parts. (MAF, boost sensor etc)


sounds like you have a n/a ecu running the TII motor, which is four kinds of bad. you need to get yourself a TII ecu, either the N333 or the N332 ecu. otherwise, your motor will be toast. also, after swapping everything on earth, did you check all of your grounds, the usual check connections and all that? you said you have mixed high and low impedance injectors. if you have the resistor block installed with some high impedance injectors, they wont work properly and you risk damage to the them. so first off, you need the proper injectors and ecu. then if it still isnt working for you. get a digital multimeter from Sears for 25 bucks and go over your connections. (ie fuel pump, injector harness, etc etc)

also, if you have the n/a ecu, you wont have alot of the turbo parts connected that should be.

iceblue

I think I mixed up my post between what ECU came with what car. the one I have posted for TII should be NA and the NA should be turbo. And from what I have read to, know one has ever seen that ECU code. The TII motor does have low imp injectors and I did swap the resistor block over with the motor harness. So that should not be an ishue. I just orderd a new ECU we will see what happens. I have gone over all the ground I can find and I have allso ran a new one from the battery to the body to enhance the body with a 10GA wire. Evry time I turn the key to ON I hear a pop thow. Just one and its coming from passenger side area of the engin bay.