Ok so a friend gave me a car for free its a gtu with a turbo 2 motor, med race port, an other goodies.... He did the smog delete an he also Took out the oil injectors an has it running on premix.... this is my problem It will crank an crank then it will almost start but if i keep on cranking it will not do it again unless i turn off the car let it sit for 5 min then try again...... Its getting fuel(there is a switch for the fuel pump to turn it on), its getting air, Its getting spark.... what more dose it need, the BAC was unplugged I plugged it back in....but i dont know where the lines go on the BAC there is none an i need to find some


Thanks for the help

Thomas

 

the bac lines are coolant lines. iirc they arent need if the original nipples on the block are capped. as far as it not starting first confirm that the ecu and all the other stuff is for your series of turbo motor then check timing and that it isnt flooded.

 

I was going to buy that car .


Has it started since it was rebuilt? fresh rebuilds tend to have low compression before they're broken in. First, I'd try to de-flood it, then put a little oil in the spark plug holes and try to start it again.

If you want to get rid of it let me know.

 

Im going to go pull the ecu now

 

Why would you do that????????

But since your there at the ECU, get your meter out and see if you get batt voltage at 3B when the key is HELD to start. Key work: HELD. Should. If not, reply.

Then look at pin 2I and see if it reads 2-3vdc. Should with cold engine. IF it reads 4.5 to five volts.......reply.

Ever try spraying starter fluid for two to three seconds into the air filter..THEN getting in the car and trying to start it??? SHOULD try that. NEVER keep a engine running on starter fluid. Key word: KNOCK, KNOCK.

I assumed it was series four car.

 

He couldnt get it to run I got it to start an run for about 2 min then when you let off the gas it will cut out, my friend payed for the car then gave it to me we picked it up last night, im going to try the oil in the plugs next the more help the better, the car has a n333 esc i also have a n332 and a n328? the 332 made the car run the 333 it wont fire at all going to go try more tricks if anyone is local an would like to stop by an give a hand it wound be sweet pm me ill give you my number

 

yes the car is a s4 i have more then one esc i turn key on then flip switch an it will crank so i dont have to turn a key to crank it just have to turn it on to make esc turn on

 

The N332 and N333 both will run a series four turbo car with no problems. The N326 and N327 are non turbo, series four ECU. They should be able to start the engine. I would use the N333 and N332 though.

Lesson on starting a RX7..........The ECU uses a internal fuel map to determine how much fuel is needed and used during START. It uses this internal fuel map til the engine reaches 500 plus rpm, then the ECU uses the AFM for fuel delivery.

How does the ECU know your starting the engine?????? The key is put to START...power flows from the ignition switch to the starters trigger wire.....plus it also goes to a wire spliced into the trigger wire (somewhere inside the Front harness I think, not AT the trigger wires conenctor). This spliced wire goes to pin 3B of the ECU (also splits off and goes to the Circuit Opening Relay (fuel relay to newbies ).

So, what this means, is that if the person who made this special switch for starting the engine did not make sure his wiring fed the ECU pin 3B batt voltage when the key is HELD to start, the ECU is clueless that the engine is starting. Also the fuel pump won't run til there's enought vacuum to pull the vane in the afm aft a 1/8 inch or so to make the other path to turn on the fuel pump.

Never said the starter won't turn the engine over or that the engine won't start without power to pin 3B during START when the key is HELD to start. Just saying that if the new wiring to the starter does not feed the pin 3B duing start, that the ECU will not use it's internal fuel map during Start, but is the afm instead. That is a LOT less fuel during the STARTing of the motor.

I think I mentioned 3B in my first post.

I also mentioned 2I and how it should be showing 2-3vdc with key ON and a cold engine. IF it reads like that, things are fine. IF it reads 4.5 to 5vdc, that's not good. THAT means the water thermo sensor on the back of the water pump housing is disconnected. If that's the case, the ECU defaults to a water temp of 178* and will deliver not enough fuel during the startup of the engine. A COLD engine.

Even if the pin 3B sees the start signal, the internal map will adjust the fuel for a HOT engine if 2I is disconnected, and that makes for a difficult start. Not enough fuel during start.

I'm not saying that the above is your problem. I'm saying it COULD be part of your problem. That's why I suggest backprobing 3B and 2I with a meter with key to ON for 2I and to START when checking 3B.

This is just a guessing game and some thoughts about what MIGHT be the problem. No guarantee.

 

wont even try to start for a few minutes after a fire?... sounds like it has low compression and is flooding itself. the fuel evaporates off the plugs enough for them to fire after a few minutes. try a compression test, try new plugs.
good luck.

 

Ok more info I have been trying new stuff all day i did a compression test today to check an see if the apex seals are good an i got 3 bumps of the same psi when motor was cranked, where can i find 3b on the esc wiring im going to be on here working on the car so if you can help me over phone pm me ill give you phone number or more info will help, Thanks HAILERS
Im looking for 3b

 

I found 3b its getting 12vdc at key on an key held to start so now i have to find out what to do next

 

Ok checked 2I i am getting 2.43vdc on that,Im really lost as why this car isnt starting

 

3B should not get batt pwr with key just to ON. But I might have misread the above and you mean it has batt pwr when the key is HELD to start, and to Start only.

 

its getting power with key off an key to start

 

Ok we got the car to start an run but if you let off the gas it will die an it wont rev over 3,000 rpm it sounds like its back firing but there is no fire shooting out so thats where im at now

 

Ok now we are back to square #1...... We got the car to start an run..... didnt rev 0ver 3,000 - 3,500.... now after letting the car sit we cant get her to start again

 

You might be looking at pin 3J instead of 3B.

The plugs are looked at from the wire side and they are labled from RIGHT to LEFT in a up/down fashion. See attached jpg.

 

Right i checked 3b the wire is blue with a white line