I adjusted the ignition timing with my timing light, and after setting it up and adjusting it on the L1 cable, i tried all 3 other spark plug wires and none of them lined up with the red mark, all lined up perfectly with the yellow light. Is this normal?

 

Was the initial set connector jumpered? Also, was the motor up to operating temps?

Jarrett

 

No, i did not jumper the initial set connector. But the engine was fully warmed up.

 

It ain't normal. The two lead plugs will line up, but not the trail plugs. Keep your timing light wires away from all the other plug wires except the one your using at that moment so they don't influence your timing light.

 

HAILERS, correct me if I am wrong, but I am sure the initial set connector has to be jumpered, or the engine will be constantly correcting the advance.

Jarrett

 

Well now you have me doubting myself. I say it has squat to do with the timing as long as the rpm is under approx 1100/1200 rpm.

So now you've got me going out to my car and playing with the timing on my car to see what happens with/without the initial set coupler installed. I believe I've gone thru this exercise sometime ago due to someone insisting the initial set coupler HAD to be installed, and my conclusion was no way Jose. Its mainly installed so the BAC won't be playing games while setting the idle . So I guess I''ll turn the PlayBoy channel off and play with the car(after I lube the driveshaft U-Joints*Mazdatrix*.).

 

No matter if the ISC is installed or not installed. I makes absolutely no difference on the timing. You car rev the engine and watch the the lead marks and where it goes, and then insert the initial set coupler and it goes the same place.
Set the timing on the yellow using the ISC and then take the ISC out, and the timing stays in the same place.

The ONLY thing that makes a difference........is if you try to set your timing with the rpms over approx 1100/1200 rpm. That is a waste of your time and engine.

 

Yeah, I read the FSM, and it didnt seem to specify the installation of the ISC jumper. Hmmm... I wonder where I got that idea from? Probably the same place you got the 50 sec hot start number from....

Jarrett

 

 

HAILERS needs the Viagra channel..!

 

No JRAT, I'm pretty sure the series five fsm does have you put in the initial set coupler and I thought I saw it in the series four fsm also (I know, you just looked at the fsm, don't mean to contadict you).

I remember someone on this forum challenging me about the initial set ocupler months ago, and sure enough in the fsm (might have been the 88 online one) it had you installing the initial set coupler. But even though I've seen that in the manual, I disagree with the need. I'm convinced its not needed (I know better than the factory of course).

No, Scott. I don't need Viagra. It gets up all by itself. Its like my grease gun though, sometimes you gotta pump it a few times befor it works(lounge area???)

 

crusher, not trying to sound mean but did you adjust the idle first?

guys, doesn't idle need to be set right for timimng to be able to be set correctly?

just thoughts

 

Idle must be below somewhere around 1100 because the ECU advances the timing at around that rpm. You'd be pissing in the wind if you tried to set the timing at a figure like that.

It should be set around 750, but if you notice, after setting it at that rpm, you can gently rev the engine and the marks will stay in the same place. Right on the marks. Until you hit about 1100 rpm, where they will jump about twenty degrees or so.

 

just tryin to cover everything.....i mean i have been up all night

 

L1 and L2 fire at the time. If L1 fired on the red mark, than L2 should also have fired on the red mark. Make sure that your timing light is operating correctly. T1 should fire on the yellow mark. T2 fires at a different time compared to L1/L2 and T1, and will not align with any mark. If L1 and T1 both fire at the timing mark, than your ECU is defective. Make sure your car is at normal operating temperature and idle speed before attempting to check timing. The FSM says that the initial set connector should be grounded before attempting to adjust the timing, but I've found that if your checking the timing than it's not absolutely necessary to ground the initial set connector. Your timing should be in the "ballpark" with or without the connector grounded. It's important that the car be warmed-up and at idle otherwise your timing will be unsteady.

Hot_Dog
90 GXL
02 RSX-S

 

Hot_Dog
Perhaps you have the colors wrong? Typo? Yellow=LEAD and Red=Trail

Not that any of these colors exist after fifteen years. Lead is the first mark and Trail is the second mark.

 

Thanks for pointing out that mistake -- I can never get those colors straight.

Hot_Dog

 

Okay S4 FSM does NOT specify the initial set connector be jumpered. All it says is that idle speed needs to be around 750.

Rat

 

Your right again. Oh well.