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Ignition switch problem

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Old 02-19-11, 02:11 PM
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Ignition switch problem

I'm having this problem with the ignition power. I have 12 volts going to the ignition switch on the solid black wire but no power on IG1, IG2 or start circuts when the key is on. I've tried jumping the black wire with the black/white wire at the switch and still nothing.

I must have cook something. I had the battery harness out and didn't plug in the single black wire near the fuse box. When I found this and plugged it in I had forgotten the ignition was on. I got momentary power and then nothing. I've checked all fuses and inspected wiring nothing appears to be out of order.

I'm hopping HAILERS and the rest of the electrical gurus can shed some light!

88 TII BTW

Thanks
Old 02-19-11, 02:20 PM
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Probably blew the MAIN fuse in the engine bay fuse box. It's bolted into the engine bay fuse box.

IF it did blow replace it. Then before turning the key on......leave all the plugs off the ignition switch except the one that has the pure black wire with a black/white wire. Then turn the key ON. IF it blows............doing that will cut down the number of things it might be.

Then again I might have misunderstood. After the power came on for a moment and then nothing............do you have power on that pure black wire in the two wire ignition switch? If you do, then I would guess the MAIN fuse is good then and another tack needs to be taken.

If that I just wrote is right..............do you have any lights that work right now? Tail lights? Headlights? anything at all? Those items don''t need the ignition switch and just run off batt power via the BTN fuse feeding the interior fuse box's batt bus etc. blah, blah, blah.
Old 02-19-11, 02:29 PM
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Just went out and checked the MAIN again. This time I pulled it out and ohmed to make sure and it's good. I've also ohmed the ignition switch and it check out.

I do have power on the black wire at the ignition switch and all the lights work as well as the horn.
Old 02-19-11, 02:37 PM
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What happens if you just connect the two wire connector with the Black wire and Black/White wire? No other plugs connected to the ignition switch but those? You might have answered this before, but answer it again please.

The gauges and the turn signals should work if you connect that one connector up. Key ON.
Old 02-19-11, 02:43 PM
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I've unplugged everything except the black - black/white connector and still nothing.
Old 02-19-11, 02:52 PM
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Unplug the two wire Black and Black/White. Get a piece of elect wire bare at each end. Jumper b/t the Black and the Black/White wires in that single plug. No key required.

I figure there will be small sparks as you jumper but nothing major.

Black/White goes directly to the interior fuse box to power the third row up from the bottom. The row with Engine fuse, Turn fuse and stuff. See the cover of the fuse box. See if the turn signals work if you do that. I assume they did prior to the problem you have now.
Attached Thumbnails Ignition switch problem-s4fusebox.jpg  
Old 02-19-11, 03:00 PM
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It does nothing! I pulled the jumper rechecked the black wire 11.5v, pulgged the jumper into the black wire still 11.5v, plug into the black/white wire and nothing. So i decided to check the the jumper while plugged into both wires and 0v.

How is that possible?

Yes, everything work as it should before.
Old 02-19-11, 03:21 PM
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Zero volts isn't that uncommon in trouble shooting some things that are broken.

Somewhere b/t the Black wire and the engine compartment is a FLAKEY connection. The connection is JUST good enough for a meter to read volage, but if you put a LOAD on the circuit the FLAKEY connection can't cut the mustard.

Sooooooo I"d check that black wire in the engine bay again and see if that connection is FLAKEY or not. If not there then it'd be a bit further down? Up stream of the black wires connector in the engine bay. I'm trying to remember where the next conenction is. It'll be a moment or two to figure out where.

I'm guessing it's not the batt connection 'cause the headlights work real bright. Right????? Say yes.

I can prove this idea. If you have batt cables/jumper cables............connect one to the batt positive post and then bring the other end of that single cable into the crew compartment. Then jumper b/t the batt cable to the BLACK/WHITE wire in the two wire connector....momentarily. Stuff like wipers/meter gauges should work. Then remove the jumper. Some very small risk involved in doing this. NOt very big risk.

Just do one thing first...........make sure the battery cables are not crossed up. Then do jumper I just mentioned. Black/Yellow cable on the batt is NEGATIVE if memory serves.
Old 02-19-11, 03:34 PM
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Score!!!! Ok I put battery voltage directly to the black/white wire and things started clicking and blinking, and the headlights are bright even in the daylight.

So I need to trace the black wire in the engine bay all the back the ignition switch and look for burnt or loose connections? Looking at the wiring diagram only shows one connection between the fuse box and ignition switch. Is that correct?
Old 02-19-11, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RXJIM
Score!!!! Ok I put battery voltage directly to the black/white wire and things started clicking and blinking, and the headlights are bright even in the daylight.

So I need to trace the black wire in the engine bay all the back the ignition switch and look for burnt or loose connections? Looking at the wiring diagram only shows one connection between the fuse box and ignition switch. Is that correct?
Find that one connection which is located a foot below the engine fuse box and there is a Black plug connecting the engine harness to the front harness. Disconnect the plug and check for voltage as only one wire will have voltage on it after being disconnected then take the long jumper you just used and scoot it over to the Black wire that had voltage on it and perform the same thing as you just did as far as bringing voltage to the B/W wire. The Black plug near the fuse box has one wire that runs up to the engine fuse box.
Old 02-19-11, 03:50 PM
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Yep. One connection and I believe you already found that one if I read you other posts right.

So its that connection or/??

Hey. Might undo that connection in the engine bay. Then jumper batt voltage to the half of the plug that goes to the ignition switch. You'd have to reconenct the black and black/white connector back to the ignitioin switch and turn the key to ON to see the results. That'd prove the wire is good b/t that connection in the engine bay and the switch. But you kinda already sorta kinda know that.

So where does the OTHER end of that black wire connect to the fuse box? I kinda forget right now. Mabe later I'll look. Side of the fuse box in the engine bay if memory serves. Aft side of that box and in the middle. Under a plastic flap and held on with one 10mm size bolt. Memory thing here.

That bolt also holds in the MAIN fuse IF memory serves. Aft side of the MAIN fuse. 10mm bolt holding one small cable and the Main fuse in the box.
Old 02-19-11, 04:08 PM
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You guys kick so much ***!! The problem lies in the single black connector in the engine bay. When I put power straight to it everything woke up. So I cleaned the connection and put some dielectrics grease on and got it work but you can wiggle it around and the power will cut in and out. I'm going to replace the whole thing so it is off the the parts store for now! I will update the thread when it's done.

THANK YOU!!!!!
Old 02-19-11, 04:20 PM
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I learned ALLL about that single black wire connector when about 350 mi from home when windsurfing at Bird Island near Corpus Christi. Played my *** off all the day long, then got ready to leave at sunset. Duh. No starter action no squat almost. Pure luck led me to that connector in about fifteen minutes. It had a roasted look about it from being overheated at sometime in life. Wiggling it brought life back before it got pure black darkenss where I wouldn't be able to see no 'mo.

RX are NOT a place to sleep at night in the summer in a mosquito infested place like that..
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