Cbelkster

Hey all, I just returned from service, I left my rex in the hands of my brother while I was gone, and something had happened with the ignition system.
First of all he said he was able to push start it for a while, but its been sitting for a bit and he can no longer do so.
I went through and took a look at it myself, went and got the starter tested, and it tested fine (Not amazing, but it turned.). And when you turn the key, you can hear the click of a relay, I'm not sure how many switches/relays are in that circuit, but a click makes me think the ignition switch, and whatever relay follows it works fine.
I reran the ground at the starter to make sure that wasnt the issue, I know I've had issues with grounding in the past, but to no avail.
I also decided to test the voltage at the starter with my multimeter, I was getting 12v before the ignition was switched to start, and then it dropped to 1-2v after the key turned, and I have no Idea how to interpret that.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I've read through as many threads as I could to try to learn something about this, but I just need some guidance.
Many thanks, this has got me very stressed!

Cbelkster

Also, I guess it'd be beneficial to let you all know what happens when I turn the key... All the electrical components work fine, and you hear a click, and see the voltage drop, but nothing further, no whining, no grinding, nothing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes the interlock switch becomes problematic. It's located at the top of the clutch pedal. It has a B/G and a B/R wire (if it does not have these two wires then you are looking at the wrong switch). W/key to start the B/G wire should have voltage. W/key to start and the clutch depressed, the B/R wire should have voltage and if so then the starter should turn.

Cbelkster

I'll take a look at that today after work, much appreciated!

satch

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps an easier thing to do would be to look at the starer cut relay which is located next to the main relay. One difference between the two is the starter relay only has one plug as opposed to two plugs for the main relay. So, focusing on the starter relay there will be two Black/Green wires. They differ in gauge thickness. The thicker of the two runs to the interlock switch, so you could check this wire at the relay instead of having to search for the interlock switch high under the dash. W/key to start the thicker B/G wire should have voltage. If it does then you need to check the interlock switch as previously denoted. If the thick B/G wire does not have voltage w/key to start then you might have an issue w/the starter relay.

And while you're at it check the thin B/G wire w/key to on as it should register 12 volts. If it does not then the 10 amp antenna fuse is likely blown. This wire powers a second relay within the starter relay which controls the alarm's ability to control the overall operation of this relay.

Cbelkster

Hey all, just checked the starter cut relay (both the thick and thin wires) and they both had voltage when they should have. From there I checked the antenna fuse, which is still good, then the interlock switch wires, they both as well, had voltage when they should have. Do we have any other ideas as to what it might be?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Lets say the B/R wire at the interlock switch had voltage w/key to start and the pedal depressed. The thing is the amperage amount needs to be enough to get the starter to activate. You might not have enough oomph! What you could do is backstab the interlock where the B/R wire resides and place the other end of the jumper wire to the positive battery terminal to see if this will get the starter to engage. If it does then you're getting an amperage drain in your current wiring as it stands. If the starter does not engage then perhaps the intermediate connector between the interlock switch and the starter is faulty.

Cbelkster

Okay, so what your saying is to jump from the B/R connection on the interlock switch, to the positive terminal, essentially bypassing the ignition (I believe?) and seeing if that makes the starter engage? will the ignition need to be switched on?

In prep I went ahead and had oreillys order a starter so that that have it in stock in case I need it, I'll try this before paying for it tomorrow.

Cbelkster

I'm hoping i wont have to end up tracing out my wiring to find out where I am draining the current..

satch

iTrader: (1)

No key is necessary. The voltage from the battery goes to the B/R wire which feeds the starter solenoid thus the ignition switched is bypassed. Many cars that have an amperage problem find that the starter relay is usually the culprit. The ignition circuit is rather simple in these cars, though.

Cbelkster

No luck, same thing as when turning the key, I'll check back in soon, installing the new starter

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you placed battery voltage to the starter solenoid and then got a no go then the only possibilities are a faulty starter or the ground/voltage wires to the starter are problematic or the battery has taken a vacation.