ignition gets hot and cuts out under light load
#1
RotoriousRx7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ignition gets hot and cuts out under light load
car-87 turbo 2
mods-
3" exhaust
blow off valve
boost gauge
block off plates
reground alot per mazda tech
rewired power wire from altenator to battery
greddy pro-fec b type-s
new secondaries 550 cc
symptons-
car stutters under loads
ignition feels like it cuts out under load after temp is hot
cant rev past 3.5 k in gear except when cold engine and first gear only
goods-
daily driving is good til engine is warm
turbo boosts fine
bad-
i cant drive my car the way it was meant to be.....
mods-
3" exhaust
blow off valve
boost gauge
block off plates
reground alot per mazda tech
rewired power wire from altenator to battery
greddy pro-fec b type-s
new secondaries 550 cc
symptons-
car stutters under loads
ignition feels like it cuts out under load after temp is hot
cant rev past 3.5 k in gear except when cold engine and first gear only
goods-
daily driving is good til engine is warm
turbo boosts fine
bad-
i cant drive my car the way it was meant to be.....
#2
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Is it the ignitors or coils that get hot? Because it's normal that they do since they tend to sink a lot of current...
Have you checked the standard stuff like TPS, pressure sensor (ground) and CAS?
Have you checked the standard stuff like TPS, pressure sensor (ground) and CAS?
#3
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
A car that runs good cold, but once warmed up has some meaning to me. When cold, and you look at a wideband, you'll see that the afr's are rich. Once the engine gets a little warn, somewhere around 120 degrees, the afr goes richer by about one afr point. Say from 12.0 afr to 13.3 afr (just an example).
So I'm thinking that once fully hot, your not getting enough fuel. Why? Got me. Throw some more money at the car and buy a wideband to see the afr. If you have a laptop, a Zeitronix might do. It's cheaper without the display and you could look at the laptop for the reading.
'
So I'm thinking that once fully hot, your not getting enough fuel. Why? Got me. Throw some more money at the car and buy a wideband to see the afr. If you have a laptop, a Zeitronix might do. It's cheaper without the display and you could look at the laptop for the reading.
'
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,841
Received 2,604 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
along those lines it could be a bad coolant or air temp sensor, maybe the secondaries dont work. bad fuel filter? pump?
#5
RotoriousRx7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1.well new fuel filter
2. i have a air fuel guage and it goes lean if i floor it and if i ease in to the gas it goes rich
then lean
3.as far as the pressure ground goes i have tried to reground but it made my indash
gauge not work so i think i cut a reference wire but per the diagrahm its right
4. also is there a place to buy a brand new engine harness
5. also anyone have the link to a website for the injector pigtails so i can do that too..
2. i have a air fuel guage and it goes lean if i floor it and if i ease in to the gas it goes rich
then lean
3.as far as the pressure ground goes i have tried to reground but it made my indash
gauge not work so i think i cut a reference wire but per the diagrahm its right
4. also is there a place to buy a brand new engine harness
5. also anyone have the link to a website for the injector pigtails so i can do that too..
#6
RotoriousRx7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
oh sorry aaron
that i dont know it just feels like an ignition problem from experience with other cars and
the way it feels when it cuts out , do coils and ignitors go bad often
and it also has a hard time starting after being warm up
it will only start if i hold throttle wide open while cranking even then it barely comes to life
and just takes a second to rev up then all is fine til you let off the gas then almost dies
\idles low
that i dont know it just feels like an ignition problem from experience with other cars and
the way it feels when it cuts out , do coils and ignitors go bad often
and it also has a hard time starting after being warm up
it will only start if i hold throttle wide open while cranking even then it barely comes to life
and just takes a second to rev up then all is fine til you let off the gas then almost dies
\idles low
Trending Topics
#8
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Prosser Washington
Posts: 1,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, i wam thinking he is running lean too, with 3" ehaust. what is your boost at? that could be an issue too, do you have a fuel cut defender? with 550cc injectors you cant push over like 11psi from my experieces.
Last edited by mort2002; 08-09-06 at 02:23 PM.
#9
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
Your words about the Boost/Pressure sensor (I guess) is worrysome. IF grounding the boost/pressure sensor on a series four, you ground the brown/black wire. ON some later cars it's a pure black wire. NEVER gnd the brown/red or the brown/white (I mean NEVER EVER THAT ONE). If you do, you chance whacking the ECU and or pressure sensor.
#10
RotoriousRx7
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: goodlettsville,tennessee 37072
Posts: 1,236
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thx hailers ill dub check that
but no fuel cut defender yet
boost stays at 5.5 on the aftermarket guage
i have tried a fuel cut defender, it did jack ****
and no to the compression check
but no fuel cut defender yet
boost stays at 5.5 on the aftermarket guage
i have tried a fuel cut defender, it did jack ****
and no to the compression check
#12
What's the point??
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Try switching out the leading coil, I just did this on flaresniper's RX-Sa7mon today and it fixed a problem that sound exactly the same. Bheiman also had this sort of problem with two other cars of various makes and this remedied it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
befarrer
Microtech
3
08-22-15 05:52 PM