2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

If you could do your rebuild Over again you would......

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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 12:32 PM
  #26  
RotaMan99's Avatar
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I wish I had gotten my plates lapped.
I read some where that lapped housings don't last as long. I think I read that on either racingbeat.com or mazdatrix.com I forget.
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 01:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by classicauto
Whoa, did you just list a TII component as something you would have liked to install in TINA?
Yeah, and it hurts me to do so. However the NA pump just doesn't move enough volume at low RPMs to maintain decent oil pressure when the Weber eccentric jet mod has been applied.

While my next engine will be dry sump, for now the obvious and easy fix is the TII oil pump.
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 01:14 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by hhn2002
bc theres a considerable amount of ppl that say they scratch housings. i am getting low compression numbers but i reused my old housings and overheated a few times so i have no evidence to put the blame on the seals untill i rip it open again. but either way i dont think i would have taken that risk again if i had the chance.
Well I might use them soon and I prefer to hear from people that ACTUALLY use them instead of a bunch of keyboard warriors that dont even change their own oil.
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 03:46 PM
  #29  
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rotors excite me
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Originally Posted by vtec187
Well I might use them soon and I prefer to hear from people that ACTUALLY use them instead of a bunch of keyboard warriors that dont even change their own oil.
The search feature works well for questions like that...
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 03:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by vtec187
Well I might use them soon and I prefer to hear from people that ACTUALLY use them instead of a bunch of keyboard warriors that dont even change their own oil.
I'm running RA super seals right now. I couldn't tell you compression numbers but my engine feels damn strong, and has none of the problems that low compression engines have like flooding and hard starting. Thats not exactly proof, but it is what it is...

I also wish I had spent more time on my engine bay. I painted it black but I only put on one coat and it looks kinda shitty in person. looks good in pics though
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 04:00 PM
  #31  
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would of wished i had more money.
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 04:04 PM
  #32  
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rotors excite me
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Originally Posted by Osirus9
I'm running RA super seals right now. I couldn't tell you compression numbers but my engine feels damn strong, and has none of the problems that low compression engines have like flooding and hard starting. Thats not exactly proof, but it is what it is...
How many miles are on that motor and under what conditions have you been driving it? (boosted? if so, how much pressure? ported? if so, what kind of ports? what kind of fuel management? intake? exhaust? how much power is it making? you get the idea)
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 05:38 PM
  #33  
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From: fl
Originally Posted by vtec187
Well I might use them soon and I prefer to hear from people that ACTUALLY use them instead of a bunch of keyboard warriors that dont even change their own oil.
this is one of the more recent threads on ra seals in the 3rd gen section

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...light=ra+seals

take it for what it is.
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Old Feb 13, 2008 | 09:54 PM
  #34  
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If it's your first build, it is best to keep it simple. There are too many things to worry about on a normal build, so don't distract yourself with learning to port, aesthetics like painting, etc.

Just be sure to check every part against the FSM and don't skip any steps. If you don't want to buy $$$ gauges, then it is better to replace when in doubt or at least buy a machinist's straight edge and feeler gauges in lieu of a stepped wear indicator, etc.

Personally, I'm happy with my atkins master rebuild kit. 25k and 120psi. That's with good used S5 housings.
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 09:23 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by alexdimen
If it's your first build, it is best to keep it simple. There are too many things to worry about on a normal build, so don't distract yourself with learning to port, aesthetics like painting, etc.

Just be sure to check every part against the FSM and don't skip any steps. If you don't want to buy $$$ gauges, then it is better to replace when in doubt or at least buy a machinist's straight edge and feeler gauges in lieu of a stepped wear indicator, etc.

Personally, I'm happy with my atkins master rebuild kit. 25k and 120psi. That's with good used S5 housings.
Thanks I would have never thought of something like that!

I appreciate everyones feed back its GREAT INFORMATION!!!! alot better than I was expecting to be honest!
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Old Feb 14, 2008 | 09:37 AM
  #36  
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So heres what up with mine ... Running perfect then one day oil pressure shot through the roof and when i pulled into the garage and noticed a BIG TRAIL of oil coming down the drive way. Let it cool down and there was a puddle under the car... without hesitation I decided ive always wanted to and now was the time to start my rebuild..

I took step by step photos of the parts coming out and labeled all connections etc (from reading got that idea) even took some video. With the oil "explosion" I decided to take all the parts and clean and scrub the oil off of everything, this gave me an opportunity to clean and inspect EVERY last part replace all gaskets and parts as needed as well. At this point I have cleaned and scrubbed all the parts made of list of what "visually" & physically needs replaced. Also what Should be replaced on a typical rebuild. I have also cleaned the engine bay especially with that oil everywhere for me that was a no brainer...

While I was cleaning I made a few other purchases that presented themselves that were deal i couldnt pass like a full B&N bodykit and autometer gauges (which I wanted better gauges to monitor things going on). With almost everything out of the bay and the arrival of the kit, I will be towing it out to the paint booth for a brand new clean paint job and Im even having the old bumpers and fenders painted to match as back up parts~! Everything is getting matching paint even inside the bay...While thats out I am gonna do the rebuild of the engine....

Heres where I am on that.... I would probably end up going back to as stock as possible basically no turbo, fuel etc upgrades because Im not very clever on fuel managment etc... I can basically take a physical object apart and put it back together thats not a problem so rebuilding isnt my worry. Im not lookin for huge power gains or anything, Im 27 married and have a 2 month old daughter, I build fiber optics into neighborhoods and I work alot just to have a beautiful clean, strong running Rx7 would make me more than happy.

If you have any insight for example let me know that it wouldnt cost that much more to do certain things and its not that hard to maintain for example I do not know what it is all involved with streetporting or bridgeporting what other changes I would have to make....

But other than that this is pretty much the direction im going so far....

please please feel free to give input always welcome!
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