If you could do your rebuild Over again you would......
#1
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If you could do your rebuild Over again you would......
If you have done a rebuild yourself, I want to know what you would have done differently, parts you would have used differently etc. And is there any certain thing to do one a certain step of breaking the block down or rebuilding it...
I know there are alot of "how to" but im looking for personal experiences.....
I know there are alot of "how to" but im looking for personal experiences.....
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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currently I am doing a T2 rebuild and swap...
I can already say I wish I had the coin to use BRAND NEW rotor housings... I just hope this does not bit me in the ***...
other then that currently I am happy with my build.
here is my thread I have about my build
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/spooled-up-racings-turbo-swap-thread-689880/
I can already say I wish I had the coin to use BRAND NEW rotor housings... I just hope this does not bit me in the ***...
other then that currently I am happy with my build.
here is my thread I have about my build
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/spooled-up-racings-turbo-swap-thread-689880/
#4
Rotary Freak
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I rebuilt my first motor a little over year ago.
I should have replaced the rotor bearings and had my side plates milled flat. I also jetted the eccentric shaft which may be the reason I'm getting like 9psi Oil pressure at Idle... but I have an oil leak at each end of the turbo line which may contribute to the low pressure. (fixing soon)
Probably should have had some better measuring tools. Mine weren't very accurate.
I should have got some hardend gears and done a port job to it...
I wouldn't have put the clutch plate in backwards so I could have drove it once it was running.
I wish I wouldn't have been 100 degrees outside when I was installing everything.
way too hot...
I probably would have bought a nicer muffler/exhaust because my ss-autochrome 3" single from the turbo back is a little loud... (fixing soon)
I think thats it... there will probably be a next time...
Good luck!
I should have replaced the rotor bearings and had my side plates milled flat. I also jetted the eccentric shaft which may be the reason I'm getting like 9psi Oil pressure at Idle... but I have an oil leak at each end of the turbo line which may contribute to the low pressure. (fixing soon)
Probably should have had some better measuring tools. Mine weren't very accurate.
I should have got some hardend gears and done a port job to it...
I wouldn't have put the clutch plate in backwards so I could have drove it once it was running.
I wish I wouldn't have been 100 degrees outside when I was installing everything.
way too hot...
I probably would have bought a nicer muffler/exhaust because my ss-autochrome 3" single from the turbo back is a little loud... (fixing soon)
I think thats it... there will probably be a next time...
Good luck!
#7
rotors excite me
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Those of you saying you'd have the plates lapped/milled, how deep was the wear on your plates? I have a set of plates with mostly ~.001" wear, and one or two spots where it seems to be about ~.0025"
I'm wondering if I would benefit greatly from having them lapped. I am also running out of the money we budgeted for me to do the build. As it is now I have everything I need either here, on the way, or I have money set aside for it (like my engine lift, might as well wait until I get closer to the swap date to buy it).
I'm wondering if I would benefit greatly from having them lapped. I am also running out of the money we budgeted for me to do the build. As it is now I have everything I need either here, on the way, or I have money set aside for it (like my engine lift, might as well wait until I get closer to the swap date to buy it).
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#11
6 Speed FC
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The only thing i wish i had done differently(more like, did better and took more time on) is painting the engine bay better. i slapped on a quick layer of black paint and it looks like ****. not so much in person, but it really looks like crap in pics, and it scratches easily.
I just wish i had really taken the time and cleaned the F out of it before installing the motor.
next time the engine comes out, i will make it perfect.
I just wish i had really taken the time and cleaned the F out of it before installing the motor.
next time the engine comes out, i will make it perfect.
#15
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i have used oem apex seals, i don't have anything else to compare to but they have worked great so far. i have about 2k miles on the rebuild, i wish i could have gotten new housings and did a slight port while i had it apart. i had already spent so much money that it was getting out of budget when you factor in little stuff like fluids and last minute **** like the bearings in the front cover that needs clearancing, paying overnight shipping for stuff cuz you need it fast...
#17
Looks ahead!
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I also wish I had the coin for new housings and maybe a ceramic coat. But hey, its gonna come up on 40k this summer, so I guess I did all right. *knocks on wood*
#18
I'm a boost creep...
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I think what the OP whats is things that you'd do differently as a result of of your experience the first time around. Not a wish list of things you couldn't afford at the time.
#20
Engine, Not Motor
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Regarding the engine in my turbo NA car, there are several things I would have done differently in hindsight:
Aside from that I'm very happy.
- Full bridgeport instead of the small half bridge. A bridge is a bridge is a bridge so there's no point trying to go small
- TII oil pump
- Rotor housing cooling jacket mods
- Elimination of front cover oil bypass
Aside from that I'm very happy.
#21
Crash Auto?Fix Auto.
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Whoa, did you just list a TII component as something you would have liked to install in TINA?
Or am I still asleep?
As for things I wish I'd have done in previous rebuilds, stayed away from Atkins seals. Alot of people have had good experience with them, but if (like me) you're the one guy who has trouble with one seal, it costs you a ******* motor and they won't do a thing to help you.
Rather then gamble I now stick with OEM. Not worth the risk for the cost difference.
Or am I still asleep?
As for things I wish I'd have done in previous rebuilds, stayed away from Atkins seals. Alot of people have had good experience with them, but if (like me) you're the one guy who has trouble with one seal, it costs you a ******* motor and they won't do a thing to help you.
Rather then gamble I now stick with OEM. Not worth the risk for the cost difference.
#23
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I would have done an aggressive streetport on my engine. At the time, I wanted to get the car back on the road, but in retrospect, I shoulda put in the effort to do some porting.
#25
bc theres a considerable amount of ppl that say they scratch housings. i am getting low compression numbers but i reused my old housings and overheated a few times so i have no evidence to put the blame on the seals untill i rip it open again. but either way i dont think i would have taken that risk again if i had the chance.