my car is having a idling issue. when i first start the car up it idles up around 2000 till it starts to warm up then the rpms gradly start coming down. when it gets to 1000 rpms it starts acting like it wants to stall out, i don't know its strange. is there any way to increase the idle rpms? so it doesn't try to idle at such a low rpm and stall out? Any info is greatly appreciated.

 

is the idle rough? a bit jumpy is what i mean...

 

You have a vacuum leak, and/or the thermowax is stuck and the cold idle cam is being jammed open...Search for "thermowax" for more info.

Also, once you have fixed that problem, give the TPS a good adjusting.

 

Is it a turbo or n/a? If its a turbo this problem is far too common, and you should unfortunatly find like a thousand diffrent reasons for this problem. The main focus of the problem seems to always be either vaccum leak or TPS. I can tell you that you can adjust your idle at the BAC valve, or if its a n/a at the top of the intake manifold ( screw ) but this shouldent be done untill you find the cause of the problem. Id deftly try what aaron recomends, cuz vac leaks are almost always the main cause. I fixed my idle prob on my TII by adjusting the tps to within spec, and then adjusting my BAC to set proper idle. So far this has worked but its only been this way for a week now hopefully itll stay fixed. GOOd luck

 

There is another reasons his idle is off. Adjusting the BAC valve will just mask the symptom, not solve the problem.

 

I did set the tps to spec, I even had a master mazda tech tell me how to do it. That solved my bouncing idle problem. Now I replaced all of the vac lines that sit over top the turbo with silicone lines. I looked around the engine and couldn't see anymore lines that need to be replaced,are there some that I'm missing?

 

Aaron, in removing that thermowax is that going to solve my problem?

 

nevermind I fixed my idle problem, i just adjusted out the idle stop screw out a little further and bumped up my idle rpm, now she idles at 1200 perfectly and no stalling occurs.

 

Isnt 1200 just a bit on the high side?

Jarrett

 

doesn't really make a difference, you could set it as high as you want, 1200 is what i selected because of the extra load on the car with the a/c,pwr. steering,and alternator when the lights are on.

 

That is not a solution. It masks the real problem. You have not fixed the car.

Also, YOU do not have to compensate for engine loads by messing with the idle. The ECU does that via the BAC valve. If this is not happening, clean and test the BAC.

There are lots of vacuum lines under the intake that often fail due to heat. Don't listen to "Mazda master mechanics" when it comes to the rotary.

 

So spraying some sort of aresol can will verify if there are leaks... revs bouncing when sprayed in?

 

Water works too, and is much safer. Try a Super Soaker.

 

actually it did fix it. it works and runs fine now

 

No, you didn't fix the problem. All you did was make the symptom disappear.

 

lol. getting the car to idle at 3k, exaggeration for the sarcastically impaired, is not fixing it. its duct tape so to speak. the car should idle fine at 750. if it doesn't then something is broken. so the correct term is, hey it idles at 1.2k and thats good enough for me. not i fixed it.

 

jesus christ. Thats why my engine almost dies when i wash the engine.... ****