2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Idling at 2grand!!!!!!!!

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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 09:33 AM
  #1  
Apathy's Avatar
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dAracIngPhaRmaCist
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From: Fort Lauderdale
Idling at 2grand!!!!!!!!

Hey, I have tried and tried to change my idle because I just bought an 87 rx7 and the car was idling at 3grand at first. However, after I changed the radiator and alternator and belt and crap it dropped to only 2grand. To be honest I'm not sure how they are related to each other because I am new to working on cars and I am doing everything from an rx7 rebuild manual. I tried turning the idle screw all the way down, but it only went to 1.75rpm.... so if anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it because I dont want my engine to blow because it is pretty good condition and only has 50K on it... which is like new to me.
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 10:23 AM
  #2  
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From: San Fran-Mateo
From the FAQ at the top of this page.
My RX-7 rev's up to 3000 RPM everytime I start it when cold
Yep, part of the accellerated warm up process. Start the car with the clutch pressed in, and the car in gear if you don't want it to do that.
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Old Apr 20, 2004 | 12:18 PM
  #3  
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From: Hawaii
try spraying starter fluid on all thejoints, if the idle raises, you got yourself an intake leak

BTW: is this after you have warmed up your car
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 09:30 AM
  #4  
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dAracIngPhaRmaCist
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From: Fort Lauderdale
no, when I start the car cold it revs up to 3000, but after I let it warm up a little it goes down to about 1750, which is still wayyy too high.
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 10:14 AM
  #5  
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From: Greenville, South Carolina
intake leak! find and fix.

-chris
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 12:56 PM
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From: Albany, New York
Could be his timing too.Over advanced.
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 06:17 PM
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Check for a vacuum leak. All the lkittle black hoses that go aroudn the engine, make sure they all are connected and not leaking. Also, make sure you have the OEM mazda Thermostat.
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 06:42 PM
  #8  
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From: Kirkland, WA
Wouldn't a vac leak cause fluctuations more than just a mere high idle? On top of the TB/dynamic champer, there is a black cap, take that off. Under that will be a screw, this is your idle speed screw. Tighten it to make your idle go down, loosen it to make your idle go up. Of course you can only tighten and loosen to a certain point, when it gets hard don't force it, just stop. If that doesn't fix it there's more things to try, but give that a shot for now.
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 07:02 PM
  #9  
Windsor, Ont
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From: Windsor, Ont
is your throttle cable too tight? did you check the bac valve idle screw? or the screw on the intake manifold? and also it could be a vaccume leak..
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 07:07 PM
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From: Coldspring TX
man, get the FSM (download) and start from square one on the idle adjustment procedures...don't start tweakin' a bunch of stuff & screw it up worse...
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Old Apr 21, 2004 | 07:10 PM
  #11  
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From: Kirkland, WA
Originally posted by CompuBob
is your throttle cable too tight? did you check the bac valve idle screw? or the screw on the intake manifold? and also it could be a vaccume leak..

According to his profile he has an SE, so it's non-turbo. N/A's dont have the BAC idle screw, we have one that is on top of the tb/dynamic chamber.
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