Idle problem question need help
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torretos stunt double
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Idle problem question need help
Hey guys, I have a quick question. I daily drive my turbo FC and everytime i start it after its been sitting for a couple hours or what not the idle bounces between 700-900 rpms, makes a brap brap brap brap sound and the engine shakes pretty noticeably. I dont believe its ported and when i let it warm up for a little and drive it it usually stops bouncing and idles at about 800-900RPMS and doesnt shake.
Also when im driving it sometimes and i approach a red light and let it idle itll kinda bog and go down to about 600 rpms then go back if i give it a little gas. There has also been times when i floor it and the car will bog in 4th gear and act as though the fuel cut off, then go back to normal. Im totally confused and have no idea what to do. PLease help me out guys, i hate sitting in a shakey *** car.
my mods are Haltech E8 standalone, all the haltech sensors. stock s5 turbo motor and turbo. s5 remanufacted injectors. supra fuel pump.
Id also like to mention, the shop that tuned my car made a relay for my car because i relocated the battery to one of the bins, i find when i start the car the voltage is at 9-10 and when i rev it up the voltage will go up to about 14v. Idk if this has anythign to do with the idle and bogging, it was kind of a shotty job and i thought id let you guys know.
thanks
-mitch
Also when im driving it sometimes and i approach a red light and let it idle itll kinda bog and go down to about 600 rpms then go back if i give it a little gas. There has also been times when i floor it and the car will bog in 4th gear and act as though the fuel cut off, then go back to normal. Im totally confused and have no idea what to do. PLease help me out guys, i hate sitting in a shakey *** car.
my mods are Haltech E8 standalone, all the haltech sensors. stock s5 turbo motor and turbo. s5 remanufacted injectors. supra fuel pump.
Id also like to mention, the shop that tuned my car made a relay for my car because i relocated the battery to one of the bins, i find when i start the car the voltage is at 9-10 and when i rev it up the voltage will go up to about 14v. Idk if this has anythign to do with the idle and bogging, it was kind of a shotty job and i thought id let you guys know.
thanks
-mitch
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yea check tps adlustment but i dont know about a haltech also look into a fuel pump rewire if u dont have it done already
check fuel filter also look for fuel leaks near lower rail around fpd fuel pulsation dampner
check fuel filter also look for fuel leaks near lower rail around fpd fuel pulsation dampner
#4
Engine, Not Motor
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There is a bin in the cold start enrichment that is too lean.
The accelerator pump settings are probably too rich.
Decel cut may be too aggressive and your idle too lean. Or there are a series of bins to the left of your idle that are too lean.
Id also like to mention, the shop that tuned my car made a relay for my car because i relocated the battery to one of the bins, i find when i start the car the voltage is at 9-10 and when i rev it up the voltage will go up to about 14v. Idk if this has anythign to do with the idle and bogging, it was kind of a shotty job and i thought id let you guys know.
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alright thanks, yeah i think it may be running to lean, everytime i leave it running more than 10 seconds in my shop at work everyone bitches that it smells like pure gasoline is bveing dumped out of my exhaust.
sweet so i paid 500 dollars for a shitty tune.... good to hear
sweet so i paid 500 dollars for a shitty tune.... good to hear
#7
torretos stunt double
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rotary reliabilty and racing tuned it. they're stationed out of santa ana california. Yhea he said 500$ to get it tuned to the best it could run no matter how long it took, otherwise its 140$ an hour or something, i dont really remember the rates, so i went with the best way of tuning as any intelligent person would and it looks like i got screwed. shibby.. what should i do? drive it back and say wtf is this and tell him everything or what?
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Engine, Not Motor
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sweet so i paid 500 dollars for a shitty tune.... good to hear
rotary reliabilty and racing tuned it. they're stationed out of santa ana california. Yhea he said 500$ to get it tuned to the best it could run no matter how long it took, otherwise its 140$ an hour or something, i dont really remember the rates, so i went with the best way of tuning as any intelligent person would and it looks like i got screwed. shibby.. what should i do? drive it back and say wtf is this and tell him everything or what?
The accelerator pump is another one of those. It takes some street driving in various conditions and at various loads to get the acell pumps just right. Same with transitions to and off of idle. Most "rent a tuners" spend their time tuning on the dyno in boost, where it is hard to tune for drivability.
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