here is the car: 87 TII
here is the problem:
at startup, the car revs up to 2k where it holds for 30 seconds until it sputters, and dies, like turning off the key.

Recent work:
TB mod
all emissions removed (including BAC, i know its waiting to go back on).
just replaced LIM O Rings
Replaced all gaskets, vac lines, fuel lines (from hardlines fwd), spark plugs.
checked and stabbed cas
soldered new connectors for injectors, as well as had injectors cleaned.
Regrounded ecu (stock location, new terminal).
ported WG and turbine runners

Things i have checked:
CAS (stabbed)
plug wires on correct
fuel lines on correct
vac lines,couplers (no vac leak i can find)
No trouble codes
compression 80, i know not good but it has been sitting about a year and it should run none the less, no seal damage (equal bounces)
tested, CAS, Coils, water thermo sensor. all in spec

WTF am i missing? i have a walbro and FPR on the way as my pump was rather old, 165k. but i was getting proper voltage to the pump. I did notice that after a couple tries to start, when i pulled the cas, there was tons of gas on the bottom gear, idk if its anything to worry about. Any help would be appreciated as this is starting to get annoying, and i can't think of anything else.

 

have you checked the obvious?
MAF connected

is the TPS in spec?
Vac leaks in obvious but hard to spot areas? ACV block-off? LIM/UIM joint? BAC blockoff plate?

well, i haven't done any BAC removal, but as some forum gurus will say it is not recommended, I never thought to remove it, so haven't asked why =)

anyways, hope this helps (its simple i know, but i've had ACV problem and forgot to plug MAF before)

 

Brand new TPS, definitely in spec and set correctly. Ecu would tell me bout the MAF with checker. all plates have been checked and rechecked, the olny thing i did i am sort of worried about is, i made my own gaskets. I did use rtv as well. I took off the bac cuz i had a blockoff plate and i wanted to simplify for diagnostic's sake, removing made no changes. may not have been the preferrable route but i did it and its waiting to go back on so whatever. ( i tested it too) Thanks for the response, this is pissing me off.

p.s. i replaced upper and lower grommets for the injectors too.

 

What you describe sounds like a serious vacuum leak to me and they can be a real bear to find sometimes. Besides the obvious vacuum lines, check the joint between the TB and UIM and UIM to LIM. You might have torn an injector O-ring when you reinstalled the cleaned ones. Did you use all new O-rings and grommets? Will the car run if you keep the throttle open?

 

^ yes i used all new o-rings, and lubed them prior to installation. I can keep the car running with the throttle but any throttle changes are delayed. Well i guess i just wanted someone to check my work so to speak, and see if i missed anything, AGAIN. Guess i am tearing it down again... at least i can put the turbo heat shield back, oops. i hate life.

 

I'd double check the AFM (MAF) The ECU keeps the car in a "locked" mode (not the right term for it....) for the first 30 seconds after start-up, and after that switches over to the AFM.

 

^ this sounds way suspicious and fits well, it seems that no matter what i change, remove, block, unconnect, etc the problem persists and doesn't change. maybe i will have to try a new afm. thanks

 

If AFM is verified connected properly, you NEED to pressure test for vac leaks. There are a ton of little leaks that are impossible to spot. I use this tester: www.boostpro.net/prodtester.html (universal tester) with a bit of soapy water. Or you can fabricate your own for cheap.

 

thanks for the link, i think its well worth the 25 bucks to not have to source parts and put the bastard together.