jar2

I've got this weird issue and I have no clue how to fix. Everytime I bump my 87 gtu into neutral it stalls. It bounces around the 800rpm range then dies. Any ideas as to what the issue may be? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

first thing to check is to see if you have an airleak, then check the tps.

jar2

Not to sound stupid, but I am new at this. How would one check for an air leak? Thank you very much.

RotaryOrNoMotary

Check all of the vacuum hoses and lines that leads to each individual part. Also make sure that your airbox is screwed in all the way, and nothing is loose. Next check you bolts that attatch the intake plumbing to the throttle body. There should be 2 small bolts. If they are even loose a little bit, it wont barely run. Check all of your fluids, replace your plugs and wires, and check your brake system. The brake booster could have a broken valve inside of it, or the check valve in the rubber hose itself could be broken, or could be on backwards.

dennis blackstone

im on this forum quite a bit and always see idle issues
it would be nice if some of you members who have fixed there idle and write what you did to fix it

i now theres one in the faq but everyons issue is differant
this is not a bash threadf its a help each other out thread

i fixed mine with using a butane torch unlit ofcourse to search for the leak

but if you have fixed yours write a few lines to help others

JK5S

iTrader: (2)

I had quite a contrary issue with my idle, it was bouncy at around 1500 rpm not allowing me to set the TPS sensor. After numerous attempts of looking for air leaks, as everyone was saying, I turned to the good old FSM and began to study the engine vacuum diagram and the whole engine startup operation. In my instance, going trough troubleshooting of all idle related components, I discovered that my thermo wax was not operating properly and was allowing the throttle plate to remain open even after the engine has been warmed up.

Long story short, we can all suggest things you can test and check for but if you are not familiar with the whole operation then I suggest you go here and download some literature.

genji

iTrader: (3)

I just finally found my vacuum leak after a lot of searching. I think it makes sense to start at the intake, where the air enters, and follow the path of airflow looking for leaks along the way. Check that all your clamps are still tight, nothing slipped, and so on. I went hunting randomly for awhile, and I would have probably found the issue sooner if I just followed the path of airflow and went through the components beginning to end. Also I tried the carb cleaner method and was not getting any change in idle even when spraying on the leaking area, so sometimes a good inspection and some patience does the trick.

jar2

I've searched around and havent found any leaks yet. But I did notice that when I first turn on the car the rpm's only shoot up to 2000 then idle at 1100 until it warms up, then it falls back to the 500 range. Any ideas on that? And this all after I put a thermostat in the housing. For some odd reason there just wasn't one in there.

Black Knight RX7 FC3S

iTrader: (7)

thats normal.
Its part of the accelerated warn up start (AWS)
Its to heat up the pre cat for emissions.

jar2

I found all the leaks in the vaccum, and had the tps and thermo wax adjusted. She idle's fine now. I just need to find a replacment clutch slave cylinder kit because my clutch line from the resevoir to the slave cylinder is leaking like Niagra Falls