2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

idle and cranking issues, help *please*

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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 12:48 AM
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idle and cranking issues, help *please*

hey guys, well heres my issue. When cranking my car to start it the car will not idle unless i feather the gas pedal during the cranking. why is this? its annoying, i wish for a start by just turning the key.

also, when the car has sat overnight and it is very cold it starts right up and idles at around 900rpm, but say i drive to work and then 4 hours later i want to drive somewhere, it will start up and idle but it will idle very at around 500-600rpm, so i normally just hold the gas down a little bit to get it idling higher. sometimes when it will idle at 500-600rpm and then shut off and i have to repeat the process. any ideas?

once the car is warm she idles like a beaut, its just at start.
my mods are a haltech standalone, an s5 motor and basic performance upgrade, any help would be awesome, thanks
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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Whats the compression like?
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 10:51 AM
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I"d post this in the HALTECH forum since it's not stock anymore.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 11:28 AM
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sounds to me like your temperature correction curve is off. check your tune.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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From: fountain valley
the shop actually tuned my car, so im not too familiar on that to check for my tune.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 03:02 PM
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well then either take it back to them and have them support it, or learn how to tweak the tune yourself.
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Old Jan 31, 2010 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by patman
well then either take it back to them and have them support it, or learn how to tweak the tune yourself.
+1
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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From: fountain valley
i plan on taking it in on a day off, i believe my alternator is going out as well, when i throw the car into nuetral when rolling to a stop the needle dips down to about 500 rpms then goes back up to around 700. The voltage meter drops with the idle as well.
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Old Feb 1, 2010 | 04:50 PM
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that has nothing to do with the alternator, more likely the BAC valve is not working perfectly or you have either another tuning issue or a vacuum leak.

the voltage drops because the alternator is not effective at that low of an RPM
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 12:21 AM
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From: fountain valley
the bac valve has been removed and replaced with a blockoff plate.

well at night time when i step on my brakes, i cant see the voltage meter go down and my headlights dim and the motor stumbles as well. so many problems...
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by myersprostatus
the bac valve has been removed and replaced with a blockoff plate.
Thats your whole issue right there. Stepping on the brakes loads the engine, which the BAC is supposed to compensate for, but since you don't have one, it can't, and your engine speed dips, causing low alternator output. Same thing when you come out of cruise, the BAC is supposed to keep your idle from dipping.

These are normal symptoms with no idle control, either up your idle speed a little, find out if your ecu can control a BAC (many of them can), or learn to ignore it.
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Old Feb 2, 2010 | 04:26 PM
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From: fountain valley
sweeett, thanks alot man, i really appreciate it, helped out alot
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 02:46 PM
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From: fountain valley
well i just adjusted the idle screw, got her to idle at 8500rpms, starts up no problem now, i dont have to feather the gas at all, the engine doesnt stumble with the headlights on either, car feels like new, i fucken love it, no more dipping when in nuetral, thanks a ton man! i <3 you
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 03:05 PM
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aww, i <3 u too. (no homo)

i hope you mean 850 rpms...
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