idle adjustment
#1
idle adjustment
on my T2 (10AE), i have an idle of about 1200rpm. i see no vaccume leaks. i adjusted the bacv screw all the way in. what could be the problem? i thought about checking the adjustment of the tps but since the idle wasnt hunting, i didnt give it a look. any thoughts?
#2
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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look up on fc3s.org how to adjust your tps
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html
go by that. if that isnt the case . make sure your throtle cable isnt loose and didnt move.
if you did. make sure your springs on your throtle body arnt rusted. mine stuck at 3k all the time till i used wd-40.
after that. did you use a higher octain gas then usual? mine idles higher if i use premium on my 87
good luck.
btw. tip on tps tuning.
when key is off. ignition is off. you tune to 1ohm when car is warmed up
when car is idleing, key is on. ignition on. you tune to .8 volts.
mine idles like **** if i tune it to 1 ohm, but ildes great if i tune it to .8 volts when running
lastly, take off BACV and use electrical parts cleaner. autozone carries it. spray it all up in that bacv and let it dry very well befor you use it again. it'll clean it out.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html
go by that. if that isnt the case . make sure your throtle cable isnt loose and didnt move.
if you did. make sure your springs on your throtle body arnt rusted. mine stuck at 3k all the time till i used wd-40.
after that. did you use a higher octain gas then usual? mine idles higher if i use premium on my 87
good luck.
btw. tip on tps tuning.
when key is off. ignition is off. you tune to 1ohm when car is warmed up
when car is idleing, key is on. ignition on. you tune to .8 volts.
mine idles like **** if i tune it to 1 ohm, but ildes great if i tune it to .8 volts when running
lastly, take off BACV and use electrical parts cleaner. autozone carries it. spray it all up in that bacv and let it dry very well befor you use it again. it'll clean it out.
#3
Alcohol Fueled!
iTrader: (2)
More often then not, the TPS will not cause high idle, because it has nothing to do with idle speed.
Chances are (given NO vacuum leak)
1. Throttle cable is too tight.
2. Throttle stop is mis-adjusted
3. Timing is out of whack
Most times, people go in trying to fix or mess with idle adjustments without reading the FSM first. Once that happens, everything is fux0red. Also, some people try to adjust timing to make up for a high idle, not knowing that once you are above about 1000 RPM or so, the engine is feeding timing adjustments REGARDLESS of whether the ISC is jumpered or not.
Chances are (given NO vacuum leak)
1. Throttle cable is too tight.
2. Throttle stop is mis-adjusted
3. Timing is out of whack
Most times, people go in trying to fix or mess with idle adjustments without reading the FSM first. Once that happens, everything is fux0red. Also, some people try to adjust timing to make up for a high idle, not knowing that once you are above about 1000 RPM or so, the engine is feeding timing adjustments REGARDLESS of whether the ISC is jumpered or not.
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Mar 2005
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More often then not, the TPS will not cause high idle, because it has nothing to do with idle speed.
Chances are (given NO vacuum leak)
1. Throttle cable is too tight.
2. Throttle stop is mis-adjusted
3. Timing is out of whack
Most times, people go in trying to fix or mess with idle adjustments without reading the FSM first. Once that happens, everything is fux0red. Also, some people try to adjust timing to make up for a high idle, not knowing that once you are above about 1000 RPM or so, the engine is feeding timing adjustments REGARDLESS of whether the ISC is jumpered or not.
Chances are (given NO vacuum leak)
1. Throttle cable is too tight.
2. Throttle stop is mis-adjusted
3. Timing is out of whack
Most times, people go in trying to fix or mess with idle adjustments without reading the FSM first. Once that happens, everything is fux0red. Also, some people try to adjust timing to make up for a high idle, not knowing that once you are above about 1000 RPM or so, the engine is feeding timing adjustments REGARDLESS of whether the ISC is jumpered or not.
#5
i may look into the throttle stop screw. didnt even bother to check that. the throttle springs are well lubed and the cable is ok, not loose or too tight. i'm not going to mess with timing and i'll go over the potential vaccume leaks, spraying starting fluid in those areas to see if i get an idle spike. thank you both for the help thus far!!!! i'm just so used to having FB's and this is only my second, but first running FC, so i am still reading and learning. i've had 15 rx-7's over the years so i'm no stranger to them. i did just install this engine in my 10AE and what an experience that was, lol. seems i'll now be looking for idler pulley bearings as they're a little noisey!
#6
Rotary Gearhead
iTrader: (6)
Do not adjust the tps until you have confirmed that the throttle lever is actually touching the throttle stop screw. If it is not touching the screw, check the thermowax unit if you still have one, check throttle cable adjustment, and dashpot adjustment first. The tps adjustment won't be right until you first get the throttle against it's stop. And don't ever mess with the throttle stop screw (the one with the locknut) ever!....unless you have a big streetport or bridgeport and can't obtain a decent idle. The stop screw otherwise should never need to be messed with. Sometimes it's easier if you have a tmic to remove it and replace it with pvc pipe temporarily so you can access the throttle adjustments.
Last edited by scrip7; 06-25-07 at 12:10 AM.
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#10
Rotary Gearhead
iTrader: (6)
Anything that allows the engine to idle at 1100-1500 rpm will cause it to fluctuate up and down. The FIRST thing to check on a high idle is the throttle lever. It should be touching the throttle stop screw (the one with the locknut). If there is a gap between the lever and stop screw, check the throttle cable for slack, check the dashpot for function and correct adjustment, check that the fast idle cam isn't keeping the throttle open (thermowax adjustment screw or fast idle cam position screw). Once you have the throttle lever against the screw, and you still have a high idle, do a vacuum leak test with propane or compressed air.
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