Idiots for dumbies
08-07-10, 04:48 PM
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Idiots for dumbies
I got in m car today and I niticed all my idiot lights would come on when I hit the gas. The charge, over heat, add coolant and one other. I forget witch one. All th reds pretty much. Is there a short in my electrical system somewhere? I had driven it earlier and it was fine. It keeps beeping too. Beep... Beep beep...beep. What's up with this thing? Lol
08-07-10, 04:52 PM
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Had that problem a week ago too... turns out it was my alternator on the way out and it finally went.... replaced and no more lights sense then!
Test the alternator and go from there i guess.
Test the alternator and go from there i guess.
08-07-10, 04:57 PM
#3
Yes and if you looked at this section that someone had worked so hard to put together you would have your answer! :-)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post5131072
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post5131072
08-07-10, 05:00 PM
#4
^^ Most likely the alternator as far as the idiot lights are concerned. Easy check of the alternator would have you put the red lead of the multimeter set to DC volts to the B+ terminal of the alternator which is the single black wire and the black lead of the meter on the negative battery terminal w/car running and no accesories on and the volts should be than 14.2 to 14.7
As far as the beeps go are they continous or a certain number of beeps then a pause followed by the same number of beeps. And are we talking about beeps or a ringing buzz as there is a difference between the two and the car will do one or the other depending on the circumstances at hand.
As far as the beeps go are they continous or a certain number of beeps then a pause followed by the same number of beeps. And are we talking about beeps or a ringing buzz as there is a difference between the two and the car will do one or the other depending on the circumstances at hand.
08-08-10, 02:57 AM
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^^ Most likely the alternator as far as the idiot lights are concerned. Easy check of the alternator would have you put the red lead of the multimeter set to DC volts to the B+ terminal of the alternator which is the single black wire and the black lead of the meter on the negative battery terminal w/car running and no accesories on and the volts should be than 14.2 to 14.7
As far as the beeps go are they continous or a certain number of beeps then a pause followed by the same number of beeps. And are we talking about beeps or a ringing buzz as there is a difference between the two and the car will do one or the other depending on the circumstances at hand.
As far as the beeps go are they continous or a certain number of beeps then a pause followed by the same number of beeps. And are we talking about beeps or a ringing buzz as there is a difference between the two and the car will do one or the other depending on the circumstances at hand.
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08-08-10, 02:59 AM
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Yes and if you looked at this section that someone had worked so hard to put together you would have your answer! :-)
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post5131072
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post5131072
08-09-10, 11:54 PM
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You can pull the Hood up enough to get at the 2 10 mm bolts on each side of the latch.(on the rad support) Use a flashlight,you can see them clearly.
The latch will then Come UP with the hood,and then you can take the cable off the Latch and open the hood.
Once you have the latch Off the hood you can "diagnose" the problem that made it stick.
Usually it is a plastic grommet in the cable that breaks and creates slack in the cable,and this thing won't allow you to Pop the hood open fully with the cable release.
The solution is to get another cable.,
Sometimes it is merely an adjustment on the Hood latch itself.By moving the latch up or down it will adjust the Position,so the latch can do it's job.
I hope that Helps ya.Cheers Styx.
08-11-10, 05:49 PM
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So I dont know what the deal is with my car. the lighs were on today and while I was driving it home they went off. It felt kida rough until they went off. I do need an oil change too though. What gives guys? Im getting it checked out tomorrow.
08-11-10, 07:07 PM
#13
Have you checked the alternator as suggested and if not what's precluding you from doing so? Another check of the charging system would have you while the car is running is to place one lead(any lead) on the B+ terminal of the alternator and the other meter lead on the positive battery post(not terminal but the post) with the meter set to DC volts. Should be less than .2 volts. This is not the same as the first test I suggested, Then place any meter lead on the housing of the alternator and the other lead of the meter on the negative battery post and it should read less than .2 volts as well. Do these three tests which should take no more than two minutes of your time and you will then be able to figure the cause of your problem. First one measures the voltage output of the alternator, the second one tests the positive connections to the alternator and the third test checks the condition of the charging system grounds.
08-12-10, 01:33 PM
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I just got it checked out and WOW! Its over charging. Its at 15.37. I wont drive it for a while. Ill have to find an alternator. good thing my boy works at Kragen. Haha. Does anyone know of a better than stock alternator thats good for the T2s?
08-12-10, 03:31 PM
#17
Another option is to go for a 3.0/3.8L Taurus alt. They're super common in the junkyards and cheap too ($25) Fab up some flat brackets and it'll slip right on. Be sure to get it tested too. See my posts for the wiring and bracket fab instructions
