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-   -   Idiots for dumbies (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/idiots-dumbies-916653/)

Linguo415 08-07-10 04:48 PM

Idiots for dumbies
 
I got in m car today and I niticed all my idiot lights would come on when I hit the gas. The charge, over heat, add coolant and one other. I forget witch one. All th reds pretty much. Is there a short in my electrical system somewhere? I had driven it earlier and it was fine. It keeps beeping too. Beep... Beep beep...beep. What's up with this thing? Lol:scratch:

Reynolds rx7 08-07-10 04:52 PM

Had that problem a week ago too... turns out it was my alternator on the way out and it finally went.... replaced and no more lights sense then!

Test the alternator and go from there i guess.

Rx-7Doctor 08-07-10 04:57 PM

Yes and if you looked at this section that someone had worked so hard to put together you would have your answer! :-)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post5131072

satch 08-07-10 05:00 PM

^^ Most likely the alternator as far as the idiot lights are concerned. Easy check of the alternator would have you put the red lead of the multimeter set to DC volts to the B+ terminal of the alternator which is the single black wire and the black lead of the meter on the negative battery terminal w/car running and no accesories on and the volts should be than 14.2 to 14.7

As far as the beeps go are they continous or a certain number of beeps then a pause followed by the same number of beeps. And are we talking about beeps or a ringing buzz as there is a difference between the two and the car will do one or the other depending on the circumstances at hand.

RotaryRocket88 08-07-10 08:03 PM

The fact that the lights are coming on with increased RPMs suggests it may be overcharging. I'd get a voltmeter on the alternator before driving anywhere. Besides probably stranding you somewhere, excessive voltage could burn up electronics.

Linguo415 08-08-10 02:57 AM


Originally Posted by satch (Post 10152591)
^^ Most likely the alternator as far as the idiot lights are concerned. Easy check of the alternator would have you put the red lead of the multimeter set to DC volts to the B+ terminal of the alternator which is the single black wire and the black lead of the meter on the negative battery terminal w/car running and no accesories on and the volts should be than 14.2 to 14.7

As far as the beeps go are they continous or a certain number of beeps then a pause followed by the same number of beeps. And are we talking about beeps or a ringing buzz as there is a difference between the two and the car will do one or the other depending on the circumstances at hand.

Thanks alot! This is very helpful. The beeps are as i described before. no buzz. :icon_tup:

Linguo415 08-08-10 02:58 AM


Originally Posted by RotaryRocket88 (Post 10152778)
The fact that the lights are coming on with increased RPMs suggests it may be overcharging. I'd get a voltmeter on the alternator before driving anywhere. Besides probably stranding you somewhere, excessive voltage could burn up electronics.

thanks man. Ill do that.

Linguo415 08-08-10 02:59 AM


Originally Posted by Rx-7Doctor (Post 10152588)
Yes and if you looked at this section that someone had worked so hard to put together you would have your answer! :-)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...72#post5131072

Haha. I knew I had seen this before. I can never find these things for some reason. :lol:

Linguo415 08-09-10 01:02 AM

WTF! now my hood won't open. It props open when i pull the handle but the laver to release the hood won't budge. What do I do?:icon_tdow

misterstyx69 08-09-10 11:54 PM


Originally Posted by Linguo415 (Post 10154687)
WTF! now my hood won't open. It props open when i pull the handle but the laver to release the hood won't budge. What do I do?:icon_tdow

Easy ..No problem
You can pull the Hood up enough to get at the 2 10 mm bolts on each side of the latch.(on the rad support) Use a flashlight,you can see them clearly.
The latch will then Come UP with the hood,and then you can take the cable off the Latch and open the hood.
Once you have the latch Off the hood you can "diagnose" the problem that made it stick.
Usually it is a plastic grommet in the cable that breaks and creates slack in the cable,and this thing won't allow you to Pop the hood open fully with the cable release.
The solution is to get another cable.,
Sometimes it is merely an adjustment on the Hood latch itself.By moving the latch up or down it will adjust the Position,so the latch can do it's job.
I hope that Helps ya.Cheers Styx.

Linguo415 08-11-10 05:49 PM

So I dont know what the deal is with my car. the lighs were on today and while I was driving it home they went off. It felt kida rough until they went off. I do need an oil change too though. What gives guys? Im getting it checked out tomorrow.

Rx-7Doctor 08-11-10 06:04 PM

Get it checked out!

We cannot tell you anything else until you have the car checked! :-)

satch 08-11-10 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by Linguo415 (Post 10159873)
So I dont know what the deal is with my car. the lighs were on today and while I was driving it home they went off. It felt kida rough until they went off. I do need an oil change too though. What gives guys? Im getting it checked out tomorrow.

Have you checked the alternator as suggested and if not what's precluding you from doing so? Another check of the charging system would have you while the car is running is to place one lead(any lead) on the B+ terminal of the alternator and the other meter lead on the positive battery post(not terminal but the post) with the meter set to DC volts. Should be less than .2 volts. This is not the same as the first test I suggested, Then place any meter lead on the housing of the alternator and the other lead of the meter on the negative battery post and it should read less than .2 volts as well. Do these three tests which should take no more than two minutes of your time and you will then be able to figure the cause of your problem. First one measures the voltage output of the alternator, the second one tests the positive connections to the alternator and the third test checks the condition of the charging system grounds.

Linguo415 08-12-10 01:33 PM

I just got it checked out and WOW! Its over charging. Its at 15.37. I wont drive it for a while. Ill have to find an alternator. good thing my boy works at Kragen. Haha. Does anyone know of a better than stock alternator thats good for the T2s?

jjcobm 08-12-10 01:51 PM


Originally Posted by Linguo415 (Post 10161294)
I just got it checked out and WOW! Its over charging. Its at 15.37. I wont drive it for a while. Ill have to find an alternator. good thing my boy works at Kragen. Haha. Does anyone know of a better than stock alternator thats good for the T2s?

FD Alternator Swap... If you have any questions about that just search the 2nd gen section

RotaryRocket88 08-12-10 03:23 PM


Originally Posted by Linguo415 (Post 10161294)
I just got it checked out and WOW! Its over charging. Its at 15.37. I wont drive it for a while. Ill have to find an alternator. good thing my boy works at Kragen. Haha. Does anyone know of a better than stock alternator thats good for the T2s?

As I guessed. If you get a reman alternator from Kragen, have it tested on the spot. I'm leery of reman electronics from Kragen since I bought 2 alternators that were DOA.

Akagis_white_comet 08-12-10 03:31 PM

Another option is to go for a 3.0/3.8L Taurus alt. They're super common in the junkyards and cheap too ($25) Fab up some flat brackets and it'll slip right on. Be sure to get it tested too. See my posts for the wiring and bracket fab instructions

Linguo415 08-16-10 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by RotaryRocket88 (Post 10161428)
As I guessed. If you get a reman alternator from Kragen, have it tested on the spot. I'm leery of reman electronics from Kragen since I bought 2 alternators that were DOA.

Will do. Thanks!


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