Hey

I got my car back from the shop today and had some lingering questions.

When I first got the car, all of the idiot lights were on, short of check engine and belts, but the car ran great. the mechanic said they were like that all day but on the way home they all magically turned off except for the antilock one. I'm about to take the car out for another spin to confirm that they remain off.

Also, I noticed that only 3 of the 4 OMP lines seem to have oil in them. Is the fourth one a return? Is the fourth line supposed to be brown like the others?

So I guess I'm just wondering if i should be worried.

Thanks in advance.

 

None of the idiot lights should be on while driving. If they are it means either the related system had a problem, or the sensor had a problem.

All omp lines should have oil. Its a one way trip there is no such thing as an omp return line.

 

i'll have to check to see if that 4th line has oil in it tomorrow. if it's still clear does it mean that it's likely that the non omp side has broken?


All of the idiot lights remain on with the exception of check engine and belts. the e-brake light works as well. None of this was a problem when I took it in, but the wiring harness was touching the turbo due to PO stupidity. The shop rerouted the harness and rewrapped it, but maybe that's what's giving me problems?

 

All the warning lights on = charging system problem. Check alternator output voltage, and you can backprobe the connector on the back to compare to the FSM specs.

If it seems oil is not flowing through one of the lines, you could have blockage inside it/the MOP connection/the oil injector.

 

Thanks for the response!

I replaced the alternator with an FD unit not even 6 months ago, and it worked fine before i took it in. I'll check the voltages tomorrow.

I was hoping to be problem free for a bit, but it seems as if i may be chasing the dragon on that one, haha

 

for the record this is an S5 Turbo with electric OMP

 

A loose connection on the B-post can do it too. I once forgot to tighten the nut all the way, and the intermittent connection drained my battery.

 

So i checked the nut on the B post as well as the belt tensions, and I still had the idiot lights come on.

15.3V when the idiot lights are on.

They turned off again (except for abs) in the middle of the drive, so i checked the voltage after the drive.
It was 14,8V

Color me confused.


I want to believe there's oil in that 4th OMP line, but i'm sure white isn't a good color for it when all the others are a light brown.. How do I confirm it's blocked? How do I unblock it?

 

Question: Why do all the warning lights come on when the key is put to ON, engine OFF?

Answer: the L wire on the small alt plug sees a ground when the alt is not turning and that L wire puts a ground on all the light bulbs in the warning light assy which already has batt voltage on the other side of the bulbs. So all the lights come on.

Question: Why do all the warning lights go out when the engine is running?

Answer: Because the L wire no longer has a gnd on it. It now has batt/alt voltage of the same value as that seen on the other side of the warning light assy light bulbs which results in them not illuminating.

Question: How does my alternator in my RX work?

Answer: Do a googel search. Like this one http://www.alternatorparts.com/under...lternators.htm

Do this. Pull the small plug off the alt. Turn the key ON engine OFF. Do your warning lights ALL come on or not? They should NOT come on. If they do there is a short in the L wire from the small plug back to the warning light assy.

Question: Which is the L wire on my series five alt?

Answer: The wire closest to the B terminal with the large output wire is the wire in the small plug that is the S wire. The other wire in the small plug is _______ fill in the blank.

 

Thanks for the tips!

Do you have like.. some kind of text file with all of that stuff already written down? Doesn't look like it's from the FAQ haha.

So, stupidly enough, there was a bad connection at the L and S terminals. After securing the connection, the cluster light problems vanished and the car is running cherry!
All my posts on this forum make me look like such a scrub -_-;
But in the end I'd rather look like a noob and have it easy than look like a pro with tons of work to do.


So the car is running great with the exception of that empty oil line.

Should I just start premixing a little?

 

New OEM lines will be white in color. It's only after age and heat that they get discolored. Someone may have bought just 1 replacement after breaking a line. Does it look newer than the other 3?

This is one of my replacement lines that is going on my car tomorrow.