emac

this is probably only going to be answerable by icemark, but i was wondering if anyone could tell me the measured values that diodes D4 and D11 are supposed to be on the s5 idiot light cluster on board #2 next to the connector. i'm getting the same value both ways so i'm thinking they're fried.

Icemark

well you should about a .7 volt drop across the diodes (measuring with the + side of your meter on the blank(anode) side, and no continuity between the bar side (cathode) and anode side when measuring with the positive lead of your meter on the cathode side.

emac

hmm well i guess my diodes are fried. that would explain the funky black stuff on the solder joints. is it common for the diodes to die

Icemark

Not unless there are other electrical issues (like funky wiring or shorted wires).

emac

oh there definately is, my door open and hatch open light always came on at the same time and my clock always reset to 1:00 when i turned the car on. when i tried to turn on my map light the door open and hatch would come on and the clock would go out.

...i have a lot of electrical work to do

Icemark

sounds like just a blown room fuse

And the hatch and door wires are also at the security system, check there if there is an aftermarket security system, in case some one micky moused the install

emac

the clock also goes on and off over big bumps so i was thinking it was the connection somewhere.

i didn't see any aftermarket system, i didn't really look too hard though. the stock security system doesn't function at all. i'll check my fuses when i go out to the car. there is some shady wiring done to my car. the guy i got it from had a ghetto rigged stereo in it. i suppose thats why the radio doesnt work either.

Icemark

For the clock out over bumps, try re-soldering the pins where the main clock/idiot light plug is attached to the circuit board. You will have to remove the old solder first, then flow new solder in. Do not just re-heat the joint, you need to get the old crystlized resin out of the solder joint.

The other spot for the clock is where the 4 pins for the adjustment **** attaches to the PCB, remove the solder there and flow new solder in.