identifying rx7 ecu
identifying rx7 ecu
Well, I have a buddy of mine who picked up a toyota pick up with an s5 t2 complete engine in... Runs like crap....he asked me to help him out. So im trying to make sure that he has a turbo ecu and afm before anything. I have the computer now and the sticker isnt there. Also on the afm it says 197200-0021. I know the afm is s5 but dont know wether its a turbo one or not.
Is there a way to tell which ecu/AFM is turbo and non turbo with out a sticker?
Thanks
Is there a way to tell which ecu/AFM is turbo and non turbo with out a sticker?
Thanks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,833
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-RX7-13B-FC3S-S4-S5-AFM-MAF-Air-Flow-Meter-N370-197200-0021-/281297459584?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417ea29980
So im testing the afm according to fsm. There is two E2 on the plug and tested both.
This is the E2 pin closest to the THA pin
E2-VS = 667 (from781) closed
E2-VS = 80 opened
Second E2 pin (middle pin)
E2-VS = 910 (steady decrease) closed
E2-VS= 86
First E2 pin closest to THA pin
E2-VC = 280 opened or closed
Second E2 pin
E2-VC = 280 opened or closed
Fist E2 pin
E2-THA = 1984 closed
E2-THA = 1984 opened
Second E2
E2-THA = 1984 open and closed
I dont know if that means good or not.
I also opened the Ecu and found this:



I dont think this is an OEM ECU. Looks like it has an adaptor for a chip and a chip named "REAL?" Never heard of it....
Well, after this long and not doing anything to the truck, buddy finally gets it towed here to my house. Wouldnt start period.
With the truck here and extra time I first checked compression and seems fine...also pulled primary fuel rail to see if injectors are squirting and they are. Ignition is fine. Then noticed ALL the vacuums lines looked like they are where theyre suppost to be and it hit me. It shouldnt be like that because the rast nest is hacked up and lines going where they arent suppost to.
Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line was going to the primary injector bleeds. The actual place the fpr gets vacuum was blocked off. The secondary injector air bleed where connected to a boost gauge and all the vacuum nipples on the upper closes to the tps where hooked up to rast nest and leading to no where. Major vacuum leak..fixed it and got the truck to start.
New problems. Smokes everywhere, no boost at all. If I try to get on it, it feels like its empty...idle sounds like its on one rotor and then sounds perfect....then breaks up again and sounds like one rotor.
Ive check for bubbles in the radiator to see if im getting water in the combustion chamber due to bad seals but they are still good. Im thinking too much oil from somewhere (possibly turbo) in the combustion chamber so I bought new plgs for it. Ran the engine at idle then let it chill for a few hours. After that, I pulled the plugs again to be sure they are dry and they where. So I turned the fuel pump off and spun the engine to see if oil control rings are no good. No oil on the plugs so id say they are ok. Ill be pulling the turbo off and running it with out it to make sure the engine doesnt smoke.
Im not sure wtf the problem is. Any tips? Around 10 to 5 hg it starts to break up. If I stay below the 10hg I can drive it but with little throttle. Ive also adjusted tps.
With the truck here and extra time I first checked compression and seems fine...also pulled primary fuel rail to see if injectors are squirting and they are. Ignition is fine. Then noticed ALL the vacuums lines looked like they are where theyre suppost to be and it hit me. It shouldnt be like that because the rast nest is hacked up and lines going where they arent suppost to.
Fuel pressure regulator vacuum line was going to the primary injector bleeds. The actual place the fpr gets vacuum was blocked off. The secondary injector air bleed where connected to a boost gauge and all the vacuum nipples on the upper closes to the tps where hooked up to rast nest and leading to no where. Major vacuum leak..fixed it and got the truck to start.
New problems. Smokes everywhere, no boost at all. If I try to get on it, it feels like its empty...idle sounds like its on one rotor and then sounds perfect....then breaks up again and sounds like one rotor.
Ive check for bubbles in the radiator to see if im getting water in the combustion chamber due to bad seals but they are still good. Im thinking too much oil from somewhere (possibly turbo) in the combustion chamber so I bought new plgs for it. Ran the engine at idle then let it chill for a few hours. After that, I pulled the plugs again to be sure they are dry and they where. So I turned the fuel pump off and spun the engine to see if oil control rings are no good. No oil on the plugs so id say they are ok. Ill be pulling the turbo off and running it with out it to make sure the engine doesnt smoke.
Im not sure wtf the problem is. Any tips? Around 10 to 5 hg it starts to break up. If I stay below the 10hg I can drive it but with little throttle. Ive also adjusted tps.
Pulled the turbo off today. Blocked off the emissions, blocked off the oil feed and water feed. Installed new vaacuum lines and started first try. No smoke at all or oil in the rotor housings so I suspect turbo is the reason why its smoking so much.
Im still in question to why it runs they way it does.... from shity to perfect then back to shitty idle.
Im still in question to why it runs they way it does.... from shity to perfect then back to shitty idle.
Installed another turbo I had laying arouund and no smoke. Idle is good now but I still cant boost the truck. Just brakes up 
Still in questions about the no boost. Is there any thing else im missing here?

Still in questions about the no boost. Is there any thing else im missing here?
Trending Topics
Thanks man. I have all new vac lines and checked vac leaks with a bottle of parts cleaner. After I swapped turbo and vac lines the car idles fine. My ground is coming off the battery, hits the frame rail, the the back of tranny then to the rotor housing. (2ga wire) also the ground that is on the rotor housing from factory (i think its ecu ground but not sure) is connected to the rotor housing and hits my 2ga wire that hits the battery. That one and the one that is connected to the intercooler bracket is also hooked up on the rotor housing and goes straight to the battery. I also have another ground coming off the starter bolt (also 2ga wire)
Im starting to think the problem is in the harness or ecu. So far the afm checks out. Ill have to find continuity in the wiring to see if the harness is good...not sure where to start. I dont know how to check if ecu is no good or if harness is no good.
Im starting to think the problem is in the harness or ecu. So far the afm checks out. Ill have to find continuity in the wiring to see if the harness is good...not sure where to start. I dont know how to check if ecu is no good or if harness is no good.
Yeah but ive came up with nothing. I dont have another t2 ecu. Im sure there is a way to check if ecu is good or not with a multimeter. Voltage, ohms??? Continuity?
I have a non turbo ecu. Im going to try it to see if it behaves the same. When it was on open block, no turbo and lines for the turbo blocked off and the afm on the intercooler coupler before the tb, it sounded great. Loud but great. No miss fires or issues.
If anyone in central florida has a spare t2 ecu...let me try it. Ill give it back.
I have a non turbo ecu. Im going to try it to see if it behaves the same. When it was on open block, no turbo and lines for the turbo blocked off and the afm on the intercooler coupler before the tb, it sounded great. Loud but great. No miss fires or issues.
If anyone in central florida has a spare t2 ecu...let me try it. Ill give it back.
Well...compression is 115 in the front (each pulse) and the rear is 110 (each pulse) good coolant seals and oil seals are good. So i bought the truck off him and forget about why it runs this way. im gonna use this engine on my fc and finally install install my ms3x. Thatll take care of any problems
Im also willing to sell the truck as it sits. No rust or accident damage. Clean title and comes with fuel cell and external pump, mustang cobra wheels (245 45 17) t2 tranny with custom driveshaft. Engine mounts for if you want to keep it rotary.
If anyone interested pm me.
Im also willing to sell the truck as it sits. No rust or accident damage. Clean title and comes with fuel cell and external pump, mustang cobra wheels (245 45 17) t2 tranny with custom driveshaft. Engine mounts for if you want to keep it rotary.
If anyone interested pm me.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post








