I want an FC, but which one? Help!
08-20-02, 01:17 PM
#1
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I want an FC, but which one? Help!
Sorry in advance for the long post.
Okay, I'm new to the forum but have basically spent the last few weeks just reading threads trying to glean as much info as possible. I have tried a few searches for the info I'm after but haven't come up w/ a lot. I previously owned an FD and traded it in (no flaming, I know, stoopid mistake). Anyway, I'm now considering an FC project car, but not sure what I want. I'm trying to decide what model would be my best starting point. Here's what I'm after:
* 5-lug as I want big tires and big brakes eventually
* some options already included (A/C, PL, PW, PS, etc).
* Engine not important (can be blown) as I'd like to do a swap. (Considering 20b so cost is important).
* Good suspension to start with as most of my money right now will be in the swap.
* Reasonably light (even with the options mentioned)
* Would love a 'vert, but not a necessity as cost is more important at this point, plus the additional weight of a 'vert isn't real appealing.
* Goal here is great (not insane) power, driveability, great handling, coolness factor, and uniqueness.
Here's what I know (which ain't much). I'm thinking I can avoid the base model since no options and 4 lugs. Also the good suspension (plus options) comes on the GXLs, right? Is it worth bothering with? Or will I eventually just switch out the major suspension components anyway and not notice a difference? Not sure how important this should be to me as I don't know how big a diff we're talking.
This is going to be a long term project. I don't have the money to break the bank the day I buy the car -- I'd rather take 3-5 years to do that!
I'm looking for a bargain car, but decent shape inside and out. I realize that the Turbo II has some of the major components I want like tranny and rear due to strength, but since the motor is not important, I'm willing to spend less now and just upgrade those components. Trying to stay sub $1K for the car, but willing to go SLIGHTLY higher if it has some other redeeming qualities. Obviously this is the wrong forum to post a want ad, but if anyone has anything like this that they're wanting to sell, my next step is to buy... Right now I'm in the information gathering stage.
Anyway, any help you all can provide will be greatly appreciated!!
Okay, I'm new to the forum but have basically spent the last few weeks just reading threads trying to glean as much info as possible. I have tried a few searches for the info I'm after but haven't come up w/ a lot. I previously owned an FD and traded it in (no flaming, I know, stoopid mistake). Anyway, I'm now considering an FC project car, but not sure what I want. I'm trying to decide what model would be my best starting point. Here's what I'm after:
* 5-lug as I want big tires and big brakes eventually
* some options already included (A/C, PL, PW, PS, etc).
* Engine not important (can be blown) as I'd like to do a swap. (Considering 20b so cost is important).
* Good suspension to start with as most of my money right now will be in the swap.
* Reasonably light (even with the options mentioned)
* Would love a 'vert, but not a necessity as cost is more important at this point, plus the additional weight of a 'vert isn't real appealing.
* Goal here is great (not insane) power, driveability, great handling, coolness factor, and uniqueness.
Here's what I know (which ain't much). I'm thinking I can avoid the base model since no options and 4 lugs. Also the good suspension (plus options) comes on the GXLs, right? Is it worth bothering with? Or will I eventually just switch out the major suspension components anyway and not notice a difference? Not sure how important this should be to me as I don't know how big a diff we're talking.
This is going to be a long term project. I don't have the money to break the bank the day I buy the car -- I'd rather take 3-5 years to do that!
I'm looking for a bargain car, but decent shape inside and out. I realize that the Turbo II has some of the major components I want like tranny and rear due to strength, but since the motor is not important, I'm willing to spend less now and just upgrade those components. Trying to stay sub $1K for the car, but willing to go SLIGHTLY higher if it has some other redeeming qualities. Obviously this is the wrong forum to post a want ad, but if anyone has anything like this that they're wanting to sell, my next step is to buy... Right now I'm in the information gathering stage.
Anyway, any help you all can provide will be greatly appreciated!!
08-20-02, 01:35 PM
#2
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If your going to eventually end up with a turbo powered engine, buy a Turbo II to start with. You'll want the Turbo drive line for any HP over 200. Otherwise you'll have to spend the money latter on to swap it in.
You should be able to find 87-88 Turbo II cars with blown motors for under a grand. 89-91 Turbos with blown engines should be in the $1500 and under range.
You should be able to find 87-88 Turbo II cars with blown motors for under a grand. 89-91 Turbos with blown engines should be in the $1500 and under range.
08-20-02, 01:39 PM
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good luck finding a turbo II for under 1k. that's miracle stuff. especially the punk that got one for $100 a couple weeks ago. mine is nearly perfect and has very very low miles and i paid 2500.
08-20-02, 01:50 PM
#4
I would suggest getting a 'shell' with the best available components. In my opinion, that is the TII.
You could fit the GTUs into that category, but I'm not sure that they have all the power options that you are seeking.
The TII's have the best driveline, and best brakes. Yes the GXL AAS suspension is cool, but at their age it never works anymore, and no one wants to replace them with expensive OEM stuff (which is usually not as good as a set of aftermarket shocks).
Plus with most TII's you also get the aero package, which, IMO looks better.
You could fit the GTUs into that category, but I'm not sure that they have all the power options that you are seeking.
The TII's have the best driveline, and best brakes. Yes the GXL AAS suspension is cool, but at their age it never works anymore, and no one wants to replace them with expensive OEM stuff (which is usually not as good as a set of aftermarket shocks).
Plus with most TII's you also get the aero package, which, IMO looks better.
08-20-02, 01:55 PM
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you can also put the 88GTU in that catagory, just no power locks or windows. Just get a TII man. Why are you seeking a 20B? dont you know that'll be the biggest PITA to swap one of those in? I have seen lots of daily driver 300-400+HP 13BT and 13REW powered cars. Im sure with a good clean TII to start out with you'll be satisfied once the mods come in.
08-20-02, 02:01 PM
#6
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The only things I would really look for and consider, since this is going to be a really long-term big project car, are thus -
- 86-88 or 89-91? You can make the earlier cars look like the later cars externally - there's not that big of a difference. The later cars are a bit heavier, have the mouse-type seat belts. etc. and are generally nicer, but the earlier cars are a LOT easier to come by, and parts for them are generally a lot easier to find as well.
- I wouldn't worry about the 4-lug thing - for around $200 you can get all the stuff you need to convert to 5-lug, and the swap is REALLY easy. If you're looking at doing a pretty major buildup, this is a piece o' cake - like an afternoon with zero fabrication involved.
- Avoid automatic cars. The frame is actually different where the tranny mount bolts to, and it's some serious (and unnecessary) work to switch to manual.
- Try and find a car that's STRAIGHT. This is probably the biggest criteria - one that hasn't been wrecked a jillion times and bondo'd over. The frame is the one part of the car that's a REAL pain to fix or get away from - a staight, rust-free car is a must.
Really, I think it comes down to what you find locally or within reasonable distance.
Also, you have to consider if you want to get the car running as-is before you start onto a major project, like a 20b swap. Personally, I would find a car that's running or kinda-running that you can actually drive around a bit. I've seen people tear into huge projects, and when it was running, they discover all the bushings are shot, the tranny sounds like it's full of marbles, and none of the electronics work.
Be realistic about what you are looking to accomplish. I think a 20b powered RX-7 would be the bomb, but realistically I don't have the time, money, resources, and skill to create something like this, not to mention that's a HELL of a lot more than I really need. My TurboII was making 300ish horsepower when I cracked a dowel pin seat, and I'm building the car up now to be clean, reliable, and making the same amount of power RELIABLY. That kind of power is a LOT - it's all I care to have.
Anyhow, there's a few bits from the ol' guru
Dale
- 86-88 or 89-91? You can make the earlier cars look like the later cars externally - there's not that big of a difference. The later cars are a bit heavier, have the mouse-type seat belts. etc. and are generally nicer, but the earlier cars are a LOT easier to come by, and parts for them are generally a lot easier to find as well.
- I wouldn't worry about the 4-lug thing - for around $200 you can get all the stuff you need to convert to 5-lug, and the swap is REALLY easy. If you're looking at doing a pretty major buildup, this is a piece o' cake - like an afternoon with zero fabrication involved.
- Avoid automatic cars. The frame is actually different where the tranny mount bolts to, and it's some serious (and unnecessary) work to switch to manual.
- Try and find a car that's STRAIGHT. This is probably the biggest criteria - one that hasn't been wrecked a jillion times and bondo'd over. The frame is the one part of the car that's a REAL pain to fix or get away from - a staight, rust-free car is a must.
Really, I think it comes down to what you find locally or within reasonable distance.
Also, you have to consider if you want to get the car running as-is before you start onto a major project, like a 20b swap. Personally, I would find a car that's running or kinda-running that you can actually drive around a bit. I've seen people tear into huge projects, and when it was running, they discover all the bushings are shot, the tranny sounds like it's full of marbles, and none of the electronics work.
Be realistic about what you are looking to accomplish. I think a 20b powered RX-7 would be the bomb, but realistically I don't have the time, money, resources, and skill to create something like this, not to mention that's a HELL of a lot more than I really need. My TurboII was making 300ish horsepower when I cracked a dowel pin seat, and I'm building the car up now to be clean, reliable, and making the same amount of power RELIABLY. That kind of power is a LOT - it's all I care to have.
Anyhow, there's a few bits from the ol' guru
Dale
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08-20-02, 05:37 PM
#8
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Re: I want an FC, but which one? Help!
Originally posted by Trav
[B(Considering 20b so cost is important).[/B]
[B(Considering 20b so cost is important).[/B]
You could buy a good running 'vert and convert it to a Turbo 'vert for less.
I wouldn't waste time on converting a NA car (unless its a 'vert) when there are so many T2 cars out there.
The only other cool thing would be like a 86-87 sport or 88 GTU where you were not stuck with all the power gee gaws, and swaping a 13BT in for a ultra light weight T2.
08-20-02, 06:00 PM
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I think it's a pretty simple question. My answer: a junkyard GXL. Most of the RX's I find in junkyards around here have beautifully straight, rust free bodies with "bad motor" painted on the windsheild. You can look for one of those, or on autotrader, as bad motor cars come up for around $400-$600 all the time. I don't know about where all you other guys live, but here on the "south side" of northern virginia, I have never seen a TII in any condition, much less one for sale.
08-20-02, 07:33 PM
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I appreciate the help thus far... You've given me some things to think about -- but keep those ideas coming. I'll try to respond to some of the comments:
I would have to agree w/ Kai in that I don't see many T2s that folks want to get rid of. Throw the 'Verts in that category too. Regardless of condition, seems like everyone wants a pretty penny for it.
As far as cost, yes it is a concern when building a 20B because I know it's going to be an expensive build all around. What I meant was that I didn't want to sink $2-$3k in an already great car just to rip it apart and do something different. I'm trying to save that UPFRONT cost because I know it's going to get pricey as the project rolls along. I've done swaps (easier than 20b) before, so skill is not a huge concern. I don't have a lot of experience w/ rotaries, but I'm generally mechanically inclined (having rebuilt engines, etc.). Also, "biggest PITA to swap one in" ?? sorry, help me with the acronym??
On the 5-lug conversion -- $200 doesn't sound bad, but if I can spend an extra $100-$200 on a car that already has it, I'm money and time ahead -- that was my reasoning there. From what I'm seeing, there is no big cost benefit of doing the swap for that myself. However, here's a question on that subject -- I'll probably switch out for bigger brakes eventually, so maybe the 4-5 lug thing really isn't a big deal since I'd be replacing the hub anyway. Also this is more of a "nice-to-have" type thing, but I'd like to use a set of FD rims I already have. :-)
One thing as I suspected is that the T2 is the best thing to start with, but I'm not seeing anything around in my price range... Hey if anyone has one out there in sub $1500 land, let me know.
Sounds like the GXL AAS suspension should not be a factor in my purchase -- thanks for that tip!
I had already decided on the manual instead of automatic, so it's good to hear some reassurance there.
Again, thanks mucho for the help so far -- Obviously I would love to hear other opinions as I'm still trying to decide what to look for and obviously what opportunities present themselves will be a factor in deciding.
I would have to agree w/ Kai in that I don't see many T2s that folks want to get rid of. Throw the 'Verts in that category too. Regardless of condition, seems like everyone wants a pretty penny for it.
As far as cost, yes it is a concern when building a 20B because I know it's going to be an expensive build all around. What I meant was that I didn't want to sink $2-$3k in an already great car just to rip it apart and do something different. I'm trying to save that UPFRONT cost because I know it's going to get pricey as the project rolls along. I've done swaps (easier than 20b) before, so skill is not a huge concern. I don't have a lot of experience w/ rotaries, but I'm generally mechanically inclined (having rebuilt engines, etc.). Also, "biggest PITA to swap one in" ?? sorry, help me with the acronym??
On the 5-lug conversion -- $200 doesn't sound bad, but if I can spend an extra $100-$200 on a car that already has it, I'm money and time ahead -- that was my reasoning there. From what I'm seeing, there is no big cost benefit of doing the swap for that myself. However, here's a question on that subject -- I'll probably switch out for bigger brakes eventually, so maybe the 4-5 lug thing really isn't a big deal since I'd be replacing the hub anyway. Also this is more of a "nice-to-have" type thing, but I'd like to use a set of FD rims I already have. :-)
One thing as I suspected is that the T2 is the best thing to start with, but I'm not seeing anything around in my price range... Hey if anyone has one out there in sub $1500 land, let me know.
Sounds like the GXL AAS suspension should not be a factor in my purchase -- thanks for that tip!
I had already decided on the manual instead of automatic, so it's good to hear some reassurance there.
Again, thanks mucho for the help so far -- Obviously I would love to hear other opinions as I'm still trying to decide what to look for and obviously what opportunities present themselves will be a factor in deciding.