2A is top right. Below that is pin 2B. To the left of 2A is 2C. Below 2C is 2D. To the left of 2C is 2E. Below 2E is 2F. To the left of 2E is 2G. And yes, the wires are measured 'exactly' like they are measured at the sensor plug.

 

Awesome. What about wiring for the OMP? I have an early errand to run and then I'm free until this afternoon so I'll be able to run it, test it, and open the ecu and look inside.

I'll post a pic or two if it's gnarly in there.

 

The following link will explain how to test the OMP. Also, after checking the TPS full range and if you find it within spec you could disconnect the negative battery terminal for lets say 10 seconds followed by reconnecting it then retest for any error codes (error codes are stored in an S5 ECU and sometimes you have to clear the codes to see if the same problem persists).

https://docs.google.com/folderview?i...e_web&hl=en_US

And click on lubrication system.

 

Awesome. I'll look at that while I'm breaking into the ECU. I can't get her to start any more, so I'm worried something's off. Could be timing still.

If I find anything going on in the ECU I'll know there's an issue. If not, is there any way to do it without a warm engine? I figure the thermowax would still have to be hot but might as well ask.

I will not be discouraged. I'm very ready to have her going again though.

 

If you want to test the TPS w/the engine cold you will need to separate the fast idle cam from the piston in which it rests upon. To do this you would take a rather long vacuum cap and place it on top of the upside down screw related to the fast idle cam and make sure that the top of the cap comes in contact w/the thermowax piston thus forcing the throttle linkage on that side of the throttle body downward as far as it can go. Doing this will close the primary throttle plate and reproduce the throttle position found when idling a fully warmed up engine.

 

Is the fast idle there in the front or the back of the TB?

Also, while visually inspecting, found the MAP vac line had wiggled loose and found a broken vac line, both replaced. Found this too:

This may be sideways. Up is left if so.
Just above that little tee which is loose is a green and white check valve. What is supposed to plug in there and where does it go?

Trying harder to start now, but still no start. Haven't made it to the ecu yet. My possible interlock problem is keeping me from starting it every time. When I turn key I just get fuel pump.

 

Fast idle cam is below the thermowax so it's at the rear of the throttle body.

Not too familiar w/S5's but the hose pictured probably goes to the double throttle diaphragm. If so, then that hose runs from the diaphragm to the White plastic thermovalve located above the fast idle cam. The thermovalve would have two nipples I believe on your car. The fsm -emission and control section has a diagram of said hose.

W/respect to the interlock switch you can jumper a wire between the two wires at the plug which connects to the switch and just bypass it for now. And make sure you're not draining the battery too much which might contribute to a car that is hard to start.

 

It connects thermowax to the VDI mani for a vacuum source. I just need to know where that tee goes to. I'm fairly certain I had something attached to it when I tore it down. I even have an extra vacuum line. I just don't know where the other side of that tee is.

Which part is the cam? Underneath that white plastic piece? I should turn it for a "hot" tps reading?

 

There's only one set of linkage on the rear of the throttle body. When the piston extends from the thermowax it presses down on the upside down screw (there is only one example of this on your car). The rest has already been documented in previous posts.

 

That's what I wanted to make sure of. I'll give it a shot and see if it looks right on the multimeter.

I'm not great at reading the vacuum diagrams. I'm pretty sure it goes to the cruise though, since my vac hose is long enough to reach from the tee to the broken nipple on the cruise mehanism at the pass. fender. Doesn't seem to fit anywhere else.

 

Is the interlock switch under the pedal/dash or in the bay?

 

It's at the very top of the clutch pedal (not the bottom switch which is the clutch switch).

 

With key to start and clutch depressed, I shoukd see voltage on black/red or blue/red? Which of those splits in two? I read another thread you posted in about this but you referred to both wires as B/R.

Also, which of those two do I jumper to black/white?

 

The wires at the switch are B/G and B/R. B/G would have voltage w/key to start.

 

I should have specified for the bigger relay with a 5-wire white plug. I'm gonna go back to that other thread if I can find it and follow the tests you posted.

This is from that thread.

 

The starter cut relay (located next to the main relay and the starter cut relay has but 4 wires)? If that were the case the Black/Blue has voltage w/key to start. It passes voltage to the thick B/G wire in the same plug (not the thin B/G wire in the same plug).

 

Circuit Opening Relay. It doesn't have any black/green wires on mine.

 

The circuit relay is for the fuel pump.

 

Agh. Alright. Thanks for the patience. I'm a much better visual learner than anything so reading and looking at my car is difficult for me. I'll have some playing to do with those wires before I move back to the OMP/TPS codes and my vacuum situation. Even when the interlock switch isn't giving me heat, it won't start anymore.

If any can convince sharingan to come from jax or dale clark from pensacola to Tallahassee to help me get a better visual understanding, I would pay serious coin. Lol

 

Took a nap to try and rinse sone of this frustration. Laying upside down in my seat under the dash, I'm looking for the interlock switch. Is it this? And if so, how do I get to those wires?


I didn't find an opening large enough to even stick some fingers in to see about finding wires but I'll keep trying until my hands bleed.

Also, a lot of threads talk about, "and my wiper and turn switches are all good and everythig works so that's not it either." My switches don't work very well at all. Can this be causing my electrical problems? Sitting in the car with the ebrake on, if I try to start with the interlock messing up, my brake light on dash turns off and my logicon lights up while I have clutch in and key to start until I turn it back. I feel like I have a WHOLE LOT going on electrically.

 

After shaking off some ignorance, I found the 2-pin connector for the interlock switch; black/green and black/green on one side, black green/black red on the other. Stuck my positive meter lead into the B/R and grounded to the body. I get zero vdc with key to on or start with clutch in.

Edit: Gave it another couple tries with some different methods of probing the wire and different grounding points. Every other test revealed about 1.5vdc at B/R wire.

 

B/G takes the voltage w/key to start and passes it on to the B/R wire. You need to make sure the B/G wire has voltage w/key to start then. If it doesn't then the B/R wire isn't going to get anything.

 

I dunno if you can call this a ring out, but the multimeter read .0L at B/G with clutch in and key to start.

 

A "ring out" deals w/continuity? Make sure you are using a good ground source. The circuit opening relay has a solid Black wire in the bottom row far left position. This is a ground wire so use it for the meter when reading voltage. Does the engine turn over at all?

 

I tried it grounded to that black wire four ways; probed with a safety pin, test lead in between the pin and connector, grounded directly into the connector and then the pin in the relay side. Got 0vdc all four times with clutch depressed and key to start. B/G next to B/R probed with a safety pin.