So much for a picture-happy build thread. Big rains coming the next couple days and I have no covered space, so it was a very carefully rushed job. But I am happy to say she went back together nicely.



Sorry if it ended up sideways. My phone does that for some reason.

Anyway, I'll be able to dump fluids in her and fire it up after it rains. I want to be sure I'm good on this - I got two gallons of FL-22, let it run without cap and heater on blast until no more bubbles? Spin engine without CAS plugged in to prime oil? Jumper yellow 2-pin to prime fuel? Then I'll need to make sureshe is well-timed, idle is adjusted properly, and TPS is straight?

I'm gonna change oil at 500, 1250 and 2000 miles. I'm using the Pennzoil for premix that I mentioned previously. I want to use Protek-R if you lot have had good experiences with it. It is very expensive though. Can I use just that without premix oil?

I again want to thank everyone who has added their input on this thread, especially Ben for his great work and [hopefully] great coolant seal kit! It means a lot! Especially since now I have my daily mode back.

I will keep you guys informed on how the first startup goes. I want to let her idle for about two or three hours consistently becore I go driving it.

 

Ford's VC-10-A2 is the same exact formula as FL-22 and it's full concentrate for the same price. I should be able to fire it up today after work.

 

If you removed the OMP you HAVE to premix. And honestly if it were me being a rebuilt motor, i'd mix it a little heavy, like 2 ounces of oil to a gallon of gas, but thats me, may not be a good thing to do. One other note, when your running the coolant system through the burping process, it makes it quicker to jack up the car so the radiator is almost level with the heater core so that way the "bubble" your going to have will work its way to the top

 

Yeah. I blocked off OMP and already mixed 2oz/gal. After breakin I'm gonna go to either 1 or 1.5oz/gal. That isn't a problem. I'll try the coolant burping process like that. I have never had any problems doing it on the ground.

The only thing I can attribute to the failed coolant seal is the use of Prestone coolant. I wasn't aware of the dangers of 2EH/2EHA, silicates etc. It makes a world of difference.

Thanks for the input duley.

 

Alright guys finally got time to get the last loose ends tied up and tried to start her. For like two hours. I have correctly stabbed the cas, primed fuel for about 5 seconds two different times. Cranked without cas plugged in and get around 30psi oil pressure, no leaks. Pulled the plugs once and cleaned Lucas Red n Tacky/Royal Purple assembly lube off them and tried again. I have tried the fuel relay plug trick and got really close a couple times, but the closest I have gotten was within the first few times I tried to start. She started once and ran at like 300rpm for a few seconds and died.

What do I need to go back over? I do need to check compression but the engine was rapidly pulled and disassebled due to a failing coolant seal. It didn't overheat, just used the wrong coolant. Now I'm stumped. I have tried a light dose of ether to no avail. Haven't tried pull start yet but it's on the agenda. It does backfire every maybe other try, but I know I have spark. Any thoughts?

 

You put oil in the plug holes yet to help build compression? Pour some in, roll motor over by hand, pour more in until you cover all 3 faces of both rotors.

Also, daisy chain 2 batteries together for some extra RPMs, faster the motor spins the more compression it can build up to fire.

If that don't work, pull start lol.

Another note, set the idle high so when it does catch it will keep running, you get below 1000 RPMs it will want to die

 

On S5 NA, idle is just the screw on the top of the mani correct? Haven't tried oil trick. I am heavily premixed but I may try it anyway.

 

being heavily premixed is not the same as dumping oil in the housings because its diluted with gas. Just please god when it starts have it outside lol, it'll bring new meaning to smoking for elephants

 

Yeah. I wish I had a garage to be honest, man. I will try it tomorrow after another good cleaning of plugs. If that fails, PULL START. I have been wanting to tow it behind my 454 Tahoe, but not exactly like that. Lol

Do I have an inital set coupling or is that only S4 and I just have the screw?

 

Cleaned the plugs and galleys one more time, restabbed the cas and she fired right up. However she won't idle just yet. I have some playing to do with my new TPS and a timing light before she's roadworthy. She starts up with a little gas every time and I can make her hold a relatively smooth idle, just can't lift off. Best part, HARDLY ANY SMOKE and only for the first 10 minutes I ran it did I have a hint of blue coming out. I'm stoked guys.

I'll continue to update this throughout the breakin period and into some harder driving. I want her to be strong for a turbo later on and I want to start planning that out slowly. I'm not looking to cross 300 on my first turbo'd rotary just yet so it will be a simple operation with help from you guys.

 

I have 24 miles now! Woo! But I'm also throwing some codes I'm not supposed to.

30 and 33 are because I have no aux ports. But I have since begun throwing 12 for wide range tps and 27 for OMP position sensor. 12 is no biggie. Most of the tpss you'll find will be fried but my question is about 27. I have the omp installed on the block over a blockoff plate but I have it blocked off and running no lines. Just straight premix. What could be making it throw 27? I have all the connectors in and they're nice and sealed. Even the one on the pump side itself is in all the way.

Some other threads have suggested that it will fry my ECU [stock N350]. I haven't gone in to check this yet. Last time I rebuilt, I used the omp but threw me into limp for the first two weeks or so [ premixed on top] and quit throwing codes and everything was gravy. I can understand throwing the codes still if I had a fried ecu or an rtek, but it's stock. Am I just gonna have to look through the ecu and look for any corrosion or anything burnt?

Another thread even suggested it can be caused by corrosion or bad wiring at the turn signal switch. When I click it to turn right I get nothing but it works if I hold it up just before the click.

What's going on here?

 

There are two codes for the S5 TPS, one is the full range and I believe that is used by the OMP, so if the code 12 that you have is for full range then that could help explain why you are getting the OMP code. Additionally, the turbo has an adjustment screw on the BAC which is used for idle adjustments. Non turbos don't have this particular adjustment which is why they have the idle adjust screw on the top of the engine.

 

S5 NA. How does the idle screw tie into this? Honestly I haven't ever had it make much of a difference when adjusting it. Is all i do just turn it?

Via a few threads here and Banzai's chart, 12 is full range. Does the OMP use this as signal? Where in the ECU do I need to look for anything burnt or corroded?

I did just go out and verify 1dcv at green/red with engine fully warm and key to on. However when I sweep, it does go smooth with no breaks, but will only make it to around 4v before I hit the end of the plunger and see .0L. My other two TPSs did the same thing.

Satch every time you reply to my threads or I read one on another, I learn something.

 

For those cars w/the idle adjust screw it is used to help make minor adjustments to the idle, but you always want to jumper the initial set coupler before doing so. Not doing so allows the BAC to interfere w/the adjustment being made.

An analog multimeter is better for testing the sweep of the TPS versus a digital one in case you were using the latter. The sweep tends to range from 1 to about 4.5 volts so yours seems to be okay w/that respect. And the OMP does use the full range to help determine how much oil the OMP needs to inject. The ECU is only so big so any burn marks should stand out if they were present.

And finally, reading post after post, both new and old, is where my knowledge comes from as opposed to coming from hands on experiences.

 

Determination nonetheless.

I was using a digital meter. However I was sweeping slowly enough that I was seeing slight change in hundredths of a volt without any spiking or dead spots. Analog meters are hafd to find in good condition.

As for the initial set coupler. Attached is a picture of my lead coil setup. My car is an S5, with the only differences being the block itself. I found the white three-pin plug with two wires going to it, but what do I connect it to?

 

And also how does idle tie into a fullrange/omp issue?

 

The B/G wire at the S5 TPS is the full range. It should read .8 volts at idle position and 4.3 volts at full open. The G/R wire is the narrow range and ranges from 1 volt to 5 volts. These are the expected readings w/key to on and engine completely warmed.

I believe the coupler is an Orange wire in a single wire check connector (found near lead coil).

 

I'll have to test full range when I get home tonight. If it wants to stay running.

I found the initial set, jumpered it, adjusting idle that way made no difference either. Still ran like *** and had a rough, low idle. I don't always get that tps/omp code combo. It runs like **** without it too just no free rev.

I believe I have a vac leak somewhere because I hear a hissing noise after shutdown for a few seconds. How are people doing a diy intake smoker/pressuriser?

I played with it until it gave me just a hum when I went to start it, meaning my old interlock switch problem is back too and I'll need to investigate that as well.

I may try the propane vacuum leak test.

 

Can the code 27 be caused by the way it's blocked off at all? I have it gutted and sandwiching a blockoff plate to the block and everythi still plugged in. Still need to vac leak test and find a way to smoke or pressurise the intake.

 

The code is a function of the electrical side of things.

 

Looks like I'll be digging into the ECU to look for corrosion or burning. Anybody know what I'm looking at when I get inside there? N350

 

Before you go about removing the ECU you might want to check the TPS readings at the ECU, which is more of a tell than taking the same readings at the sensor itself.

 

I have the pinout and charts for my ECU in my now-inoperable computer. Know what pins I'm looking at? I reckon I'll know if the wires are bad by doing that.

Bad TPS wiring can induce the code 27?

 

Full range is pin 2G and narrow range is pin 2F. Since the OMP uses the full range reading of the TPS then you know it can cause the OMP to throw a code.

 

Where are they in relation to the plug? I assume they're next to eachother.

How many across and from what side? Top or bottom? I don't have a chart I can see clearly on my phone.

Again thank you for all your help satch. I want to clarify, it does still need to be warmed up completely just do the test at the ecu instead?