Do your wipers or turn signals work w/key to on. If not then the main fuse in the engine fuse box is probably blown. If they do work then you could have a problem at the starter cut relay. To initially check that, the Black/Blue wire must have voltage w/key to start. Does it?

 

Left turn signal works, right only works when I don't click it in place just hold it up. Wipers only work on medium.

Tested blue/red with it probed and grounded to that same black wire in the plug, .0L. Grounded directly to the body in the door jamb it went a hair more slowly through about 4v before the same result.

 

From the Mazda site here are a few I never even heard about Masuda Award Japan Jan 1968 The Daily Industrial News Development of the rotary engine
Foreign Car Award for 1968 U.S.A. Feb 1968 Motor Trend Putting the world's first 2-rotor rotary engine into mass production
Chugoku Cultural Award Japan Nov 1968 The Chugoku Shimbun Same as above
Commendation by Minister of State for Science &Technology Japan Apr 1969 Science and Technology Agency Same as above
Japan Society for the Promotion of Machine Industries Awards Japan Oct 1969 Japan Society for the Promotion of Machine Industries Development of the rotary engine
JSME MEDAL Japan Apr 1970 The Japan Society of Mechanical Engineers (JSME) Same as above
RX-2
(Capella) '1972 Car of the Year' Japan Jan 1972 Motor Fan The best Japanese passenger car in 1971
RX-2
(Capella) '1972 Car of the Year' U.S.A. Jan 1972 Road Test The best American passenger car in 1972
The Mainichi Industrial Technology Award Japan Dec 1972 Mainichi Newspapers Development of the carbon-based apex seal
Invention Prize Japan 1974 Japan Institute of Invention and Innovation Development of the forced air-cooled Thermal Reactor
Environmental Prize of Merit Japan Jun 1976 Environment Agency Contribution to reduction of exhaust pollutants
RX-7 (Savanna RX-7)
'1979 Car of the Year' Japan Jan 1979 Motor Fan The best passenger car in 1979
RX-7 (Savanna RX-7)
'Car of the Decade' Japan 1980 Motor Fan The best Japanese passenger car in the last 10 years
Nakagawa Award Japan May 1982 Society of Automotive Engineers of Japan, Inc. Research and development of the rorary engine with 6PI
Grand Prize of Local Commendation for Invention Japan Nov 1984 Japan Institute of Invention and Innovation Development of the rotary engine with 6PI
Japan Society for the Promotion of Machine Industries Awards Japan Nov 1984 Japan Society for the Promotion of Machine Industries Development of the rotary engine with Super Injection, a combination between 6PI and electronically-controlled gas injection (EGI)
JSAE Technological Contribution Prize Japan Oct 1985 Society of Automotive Engineers of Japan, Inc. Putting the rotary engine into practical use
RX-7
1986 'Import Car of the Year' U.S.A. Jan 1986 Motor Trend The 1986 best import passenger car in the U.S.
Commendation by Minister of State for Science & Technology Japan Apr 1989 Science and Technology Agency Development and improvement of a new intake system for the rotary engine
RX-7 (Anfini RX-7)
'RJC Car of the Year' Japan Dec 1991 RJC
(Automotive Researcher's & Journalists' Conference of Japan) Best Domestic Vehicle of 1991
Kenichi Yamamoto, Chairman of the Board 'RJC Man of the Year' Japan Dec 1991 RJC
(Automotive Researcher's & Journalists' Conference of Japan) Automotive Industry Figure of 1991
RX-7 (Anfini RX-7)
'Import Car of the Year' U.S.A. Jan 1993 Motor Trend Best Import Car of 1993 in the U.S.
Fiscal 1996 Award for Young Engineers Japan Apr 1996 The Japan Society of Mechanical Engineers (JSME) Numerical Study of the Flow Field Inside Rotary Engines
RENESIS 'International Engine of the Year' UK May 2003 Engine Technology International The world's best engine in a passenger vehicle sold in multiple countries as of June 2003. (Also won in Best New Engine category and 2.5-3.0 liter Engine category to take a total of three awards)
RX-8
'RJC Car of the Year' Japan Nov 2003 RJC
(Automotive Researcher's & Journalists' Conference of Japan) Best Domestic Vehicle of 2003
RENESIS 'RJC Technology of the Year' Japan Nov 2003 RJC
(Automotive Researcher's & Journalists' Conference of Japan) Best Automotive Technology of 2003
RENESIS 'JSME (Japan Society of Mechanical Engineers)Medal (Technology)' Japan Apr 2004 Japan Society of Mechanical Engineers Development of automobile rotary engine with side-exhaust port system
RENESIS
"International Engine of the Year" (2.5- to3.0-liter Engine category) UK May 2004 Engine Technology International The world's best engine in a passenger vehicle sold in multiple countries as of June 2004
RX-8
10 Best Cars 2005: Best Sports Coupe U.S.A Dec 2004 CAR AND DRIVER The best sports coupe to be available for sale in the USA in 2005
RX-8
"What Car? Car of the Year 2005" (Best Coupe) UK Jan 2005 What Car? The best coupe on sale in the UK in 2005
RX-8
10 Best Cars 2006: Best Sports Coupe U.S.A Dec 2005 CAR AND DRIVER The best sports coupe to be available for sale in the USA in 2006
"What Car? Car of the Year 2006" (Best Coupe) UK Jan 2006 What Car? The best coupe on sale in the UK in 200

 

[QUOTE=NativeBeggars;11736762]
Tested blue/red with it probed and grounded to that same black wire in the plug,

Which B/R wire?? Which plug??

 

Satch, I tested the wrong plug. Where is starter cut? I was looking at that 5-wire plug under the dash by the column for fuel. Electronics are frustrating.

Hsilive... are you in the right thread?

 

Next to the main relay. And he's not in the right thread, this much I know for sure.

 

Hahah I figured as much! Can you remove that?

Starter cut is between main relay and the trailing coil?

 

holy thread jack lol

 

I did find the relay before the sky fell on me. Crazy *** north FL weather. It has a thick black/green, a thick black/blue and two smaller black/green wires. It did sprinkle for a minute or two before it poured on me so I was in a hurry to see the wires and put everything up again. It has a plastic cover you slide over the relay, grounded to the driver fender there between main relay and trailing coil?

 

Info is contained in post #141 of your thread. And I'm going out of town in the morning for a number of days and not sure how much, if any, I will be able to go online, so you should get as much of this out of the way as possible.

 

Satch I want to answer you on this too. When the interlock switch isn't being a pain to me, it does spin over nicely and the engine does have good compression.

I'll have to test the starter cut relay tomorrow when it's not raining. Black/blue should have voltage with key to start and passes it to thick black/green wire.

 

If the voltage does not pass then you can jumper the Black/Blue to the thick B/G wire and that voltage should end up at the interlock's B/G wire. If the two wires leading to the interlock switch were disconnected and the two wires jumpered then the switch is bypassed (not the wires in the switch pigtail but the two wires leading to the switch and these wires are part of the front harness).

 

So if I don't get voltage at the thick B/G wire at the starter cut relay, passed from black/blue, I jumper the two, and test black/green at the interlock switch for voltage which there should be and it should crank.

In the lubrication section of the FSM, where the ecu pinout is, is the chart there too? If this solves my starter problem then I can go on to the no-start/tps/omp/vacuum dilema.

What could have caused it to run before but not run now? I put 24 miles on the car and now it won't crank. I do think I need plug wires too. Found a bunch of resistance in the two trailing wires while disconnected which can certainly contribute.

 

I get voltage at neither the black/blue or black/green thick wires at the starter cut relay with clutch depressed and key to on. Just reads .0L.

When I am testing this, the ebrake isn't on, logicon on cool and off. I get my lights for seatbelts and door, but when I turn key to start, the brake light comes on and the logicon setting I have it on comes on until I turn key back to on or to take it out.

 

Here's a little youtube video of what happens when I try and start it. All I get is a whirr from the fuel pump accompanied by this.


I need to correct my previous statement about the logicon light. It is on until I turn the key then it turns off and the brake light comes on while I have key to start. Reverts back when I let go of the key or take it out.

And also that I get around 10.5vdc at the thick B/G wire with key to on. I had the multimeter set to 0.000v scale by accident. With 00.00 scale I show 10.53vdc which means black/blue has to have voltage as well. About 10.60vdc.

 

I just went and looked at codes again for ***** and giggles. My code 71 from long time past has returned. My previous cause was my funky tps. Will have to investigate that after it runs again. The only reason my tps could have thrown a secondary injector fault is if I had a bad short somewhere. This has really become an electrical mess. I can't quit thinking there's something I must have done during the rebuild to anger this beast. All I changed were the coolant seals and oil control o-rings. All of my vacuum equipment was labeled precisely and so were all of my connectors. I made a list of everything and went through it multiple times to check. I don't know what I could have possibly missed.

 

Sorry for the multiple posts fellas. Been doing a little more testing and research. I jumpered the B/R to B/G in the interlock switch plug to no avail. B/R has no voltage with key to start. Just 00.00v. However, black/blue and B/G on the starter cut relay both get about 10.6vdc. Which of these is first in the line between the ignition lock cylinder and the starter? If I have a chewed up wire somewhere, where should I test for continuity or resistance?

 

I have a power probe now. I tried to send power directly to B/R at the interlock switch, no success. Tried it to the B/G next to it and got the same result. I also tried jumpering B/G to B/L on the starter cut relay, tested volts at the B/G at interlock switch and got nothing.

What's this I hear about the bypassing factory alarm outright? Honestly mine hasn't worked since I've owned the car. What am I missing here? Volts on both B/G and Bla/Blu wires at the cut relay, no volts at any wires at the interlock switch plug; B/R or B/G, all tested with key to start and clitch depressed. Still just get the whir from pump.

Satch you've been a big help already and I feel like I'm almost there. Have any more input? Anybody else too?

I'm not good with electronics and any help would be much appreciated. I learned about an hour ago that I have about a week's deadline to finish my car up and have it running properly or I could lose my job, so this has grown to a much more stressful situation for me.

 

The voltage leading to the Black/Blue wire and the B/G (thick one) are not related to the interlock as it comes before the interlock thus messing w/the interlock should have no affect on what happens at the starter cut relay. The B/L wire comes from the ignition switch so if you do not have power at the starter cut relay's B/L wire then you have a problem at the ignition switch.

Again, the B/L wire comes from the ignition switch so go to this switch and you'll find the pigtail coming off of it and you'll locate the B/L wire (front harness side). When you find this wire try measuring this wire w/key to start. If it fails to have voltage then some causes are either the switch is bad or you are using a poor ground source for the meter when testing for voltage. When in doubt, you can always rely on the negative battery post for a ground especially when measuring items in the engine bay.

 

See some of my later posts. I tested them and got no volts at the interlock on either wire, but around 10.6 on B/L and B/G of cut relay.

I did try and jump the starter; key to on, just jump battery+ to excite, nothing. Battery+ to armature, still nothing. Gonna pull it and test the starter again, but last time I tested it when this was happening, it was good.

 

Just bypass the interlock and make sure you are jumpering the wires from the front harness and not the two short length wires from the switch itself. If you cannot differentiate which wires to jumper at the interlock then do a continuity test on the thick B/G wire at the starter cut relay and a B/G wire found at the interlock after the interlock has been unplugged. If it rings out then you located the B/G wire of the interlocks front harness thus the other wire in the plug would be jumpered to the B/G wire. Remember, no key when testing for continuity.

 

I have jumpered the interlock plug harness side [female] and not a peep when I hit the key. I have not tested for continuity yet. Something has resistance somewhere and I'm thinking it's that B/G wire. I'll have to check tomorrow when it gets light.

If not I guess it could be the starter itself, but as previously stated, when the starter was tested before, it tested good.

 

You stated you did have voltage at the two relevant wires of the starter cut relay but not at either of the interlock wires. If that were so, the starter could not possibly receive voltage as the interlock lies between the relay and the starter thus you must have voltage at one of the two interlock wires. And there is no intermediate connector after the starter cut relay thus when you have voltage at the starter cut relay's B/G wire you 'must' have voltage at the interlock's B/G wire. The thick B/G wire at the interlock could not possibly grounded out as that would preclude the same wire from having voltage at the starter cut relay.

 

If B/G goes to the starter cut relay, does B/R go to the starter itself since B/L comes from the ignition switch?

I did find a diagram in A-2 of the wiring diagrams book but it is hard to read on my phone with a broken screen.

 

B/L goes from ignition to starter cut relay. B/G goes from relay to interlock. B/R goes from interlock to starter.