alright, since im an illustrator, math isnt my strongest...but i KNOW there is a weight to callculate how much torque i have on the nut i want 300 and i have a 4.5 foot socket, and im apply for arguments sake about 100lbs of downward force...how much torque do i have. GO!

 

T = F x D

So... F = 100 and D = 4.5.

450 lb ft.

http://www.elec-toolbox.com/Formulas/Motor/mtrform.htm

I Googled "calculating torque" and clicked on the first link.

 

waoh, good thing it was only 4 foot and not quite 100 lbs.

 

what happens if i go a bit over the spec of 360 ft/lbs?

man the guys on the DIY video really wrench on that ****** thing lol

 

Do yourself a favor and either RENT a Torque wrench, or borrow one. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER guess at a torque requirement on ANY ANY ANY ANY ANY ANY ANY ANY engine bolt ESPECIALLY ESPECIALLY ESPECIALLY a flywheel bolt. That bolt lets go at speed, your flywheel WILL GO THROUGH THE TRANNY HOUSNG, FLOOR BOARD, AND YOU.

So please do yourself, and anyone else the favor and be safe. Get a torque wrench and do it right.

 

also, USE LOCTITE!

 

i was just wondering as reading the last post by turboefini is there even a way possible for the flywheel nut to come off?, i mean once you get everything back together and let the clutch out in first gear to get going your going to tighten that nut as tight as she will get right. if your looking at the flywheel it spins counter-clockwise and once the clutch disk grabs if it does anything its going to tighten it not break it lose in anycase.

just a thought im not expert at physics or anything im just trying to use commen sense to figure out something i dont know.

Matt

 

no bolt will "tighten" itself. There are torque specs for a reason, use em on anything you do. Another favorite quote of mine is "If your gonna do something, do it right!"

 

**** THE TORQUE WRENCH.

Nothing bad is going to happen if you're 100 lb-ft too loose (well, use Loctite as recommended) or 100 lb-ft too tight.
I use the German standard: "fukintite"

I typically bang the nut off with an impact gun.
I Loctite the threads and bang it back on with the same impact gun.
Never had one fall off.


-Ted

 

Well Im sure that if a customers family comes back to sue the **** outta ya because some investigator finds that your work was not done to spec, your fucked, outta job and going to jail for neglegence, its a different story.

TED, Im not trying to have a pissing battle bro, but I work on cars for a living. Peoples lives are dependant of the work I do. IF a torque spec is available for said nut or bolt, I make sure Its to that spec.

 

Then you just have a higher standard...

A 600 lb-ft torque wrench, typically 3/4" drive is several hundred dollars from Snap-On (I run all Snap-On torque wrenches myself).
It's not worth it for me to invest that kinda money into a single tool which has only on single application which is rarely used.
Go ask all the rotary engine builders out there, and ask them if they use a torque wrench on the flywheel nut?
You'd be surprised what the answer is...

A 6:1 torque multiplier from Snap-On is several hundred dollars also.
To me it doesn't make economical sense for such a purchase.

I'm not saying you DON'T need to torque it right.
I'm just saying it's just not necessary.



-Ted

 

a 150 lb-ft one will do it. just torque it to 150lb-ft. then mark an apex of the nut, and turn the previous apex to that mark.

 

pic

 

I haven't heard "fuckintite" before. We always use "guudantite" for the German measurement.

 

There's no reason to use a torque wrench to tighten to the flywheel. Just use the method that cdaleracer669 posted. That's the method that Bruce Torrentine uses in his videos. I've always used that technique and had no issues.

 

Aaron that works too. I HAVE to stick to a "higher standard" because thats the standard set by the MFR and required by my employer.

 

Well if you wanted, 66.7lbs on a 4.5ft bar will give you 350ft/lbs

 

To get perfectly **** about it, the method posted by My5ABaby and Mindspin is actually less of a guess than using a torque wrench, assuming you know the exact length (tape measure) and force (scale) you're using. With those two basic measurements you know the exact amount of torque that you're applying. With the torque wrench, you have the hidden variable of the wrench's calibration to guess at. Everybody assumes their torque wrench is accurate, but that's my point.

That said, I got a Snap on brand 3/4" 0 - 600 ft-lb torque wrench on ebay about a year ago for $11, and it's a beauty (the old style torque-o-meter with the dial). I paid more for the stupid adaptor to use it with my 1/2" sockets, than I did for the wrench.

Edit: I was gloating when I typed the second paragraph.