I have fuel spark and air why won't my fc turbo start!!!!
08-12-11, 04:34 PM
#1
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I have fuel spark and air why won't my fc turbo start!!!!
I have a 87 na with a s4 turbo swap fresh rebuild and street port. I rewired my fuel pump I have a walbro 255lph fuel pump new fuel filter to. It has not started sense rebuildt. I did some checks yesterday I have spark and my primary and secondary's are good I'm pretty sure. I took some measurements from pins 3c and 3e at the ecu I have to jump my car so I was getting like 13 volts withthe key on and cranking I had 5 volts then it went up to 6-7 volts after a few seconds cranking. TPs is also adjusted to 1k ohm. I was cranking on it for a good 20 minutes deflooding it a couple times yesterday. so I decieded to try a different ecu plugged it in and it fired right up idled for a second and then died I also had my fuel pump disconnected then to deflood it. I than plug in my fuel pump tried firing it up and I tired a good 20 minutes on this ecu and nothin at all after that first time on the other ecu I'm so freaking confused but feel super close to gettin my car runnin!
08-12-11, 06:28 PM
#4
With respect to the AFM I was wondering if the connection to it was solid, not sure if you understood this. There are ohm readings you can take from the AFM as specified in the FSM to tell if it's good or not. If the car starts and then dies immediately it could be because of a vacuum leak, but also the AFM may be at fault. If the problem persists w/the fuel check connector jumpered then the fuel switch internal to the AFM is likely not the problem. There are a couple of pins at the ECU that receive input signals from the AFM so these could be checked. Pin 2E would show 4 volts w/key to on and pin 2J would have 2 to 3 volts at 68 degrees air temp (this reading should be less important than the other pin reading). Additionally, you might need to add some oil to the rotor housing to help build compression if the engine was rebuilt. No more than a teaspoon should do in both housings. Also, you could disconnect the fuel pump and try some starter fluid to help clear the engine out if it were indeed flooded. A shot of starter fluid followed by starting it and then it should quickly die out and do this a few times to fully get rid of a possible flooded situation. Then reconnect the fuel pump back up and try to give it a go. If you add the oil do it after you try to deflood it as mentioned.
08-12-11, 08:51 PM
#5
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With respect to the AFM I was wondering if the connection to it was solid, not sure if you understood this. There are ohm readings you can take from the AFM as specified in the FSM to tell if it's good or not. If the car starts and then dies immediately it could be because of a vacuum leak, but also the AFM may be at fault. If the problem persists w/the fuel check connector jumpered then the fuel switch internal to the AFM is likely not the problem. There are a couple of pins at the ECU that receive input signals from the AFM so these could be checked. Pin 2E would show 4 volts w/key to on and pin 2J would have 2 to 3 volts at 68 degrees air temp (this reading should be less important than the other pin reading). Additionally, you might need to add some oil to the rotor housing to help build compression if the engine was rebuilt. No more than a teaspoon should do in both housings. Also, you could disconnect the fuel pump and try some starter fluid to help clear the engine out if it were indeed flooded. A shot of starter fluid followed by starting it and then it should quickly die out and do this a few times to fully get rid of a possible flooded situation. Then reconnect the fuel pump back up and try to give it a go. If you add the oil do it after you try to deflood it as mentioned.
08-13-11, 07:22 AM
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And also it could be a vaccum leak but I've looked all over for one but can't find any. All my emmisions are removed and I just used red rtv for the block off plates. Could that be causing a vaccum leak u think ?
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08-13-11, 09:40 AM
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08-14-11, 05:30 PM
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With respect to the AFM I was wondering if the connection to it was solid, not sure if you understood this. There are ohm readings you can take from the AFM as specified in the FSM to tell if it's good or not. If the car starts and then dies immediately it could be because of a vacuum leak, but also the AFM may be at fault. If the problem persists w/the fuel check connector jumpered then the fuel switch internal to the AFM is likely not the problem. There are a couple of pins at the ECU that receive input signals from the AFM so these could be checked. Pin 2E would show 4 volts w/key to on and pin 2J would have 2 to 3 volts at 68 degrees air temp (this reading should be less important than the other pin reading). Additionally, you might need to add some oil to the rotor housing to help build compression if the engine was rebuilt. No more than a teaspoon should do in both housings. Also, you could disconnect the fuel pump and try some starter fluid to help clear the engine out if it were indeed flooded. A shot of starter fluid followed by starting it and then it should quickly die out and do this a few times to fully get rid of a possible flooded situation. Then reconnect the fuel pump back up and try to give it a go. If you add the oil do it after you try to deflood it as mentioned.
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