I知 at a loss with idling issues/ oil pressure issues
I知 at a loss with idling issues/ oil pressure issues
First off thank you for reading this I rebuilt this engine and she fired right up we did a delete on the egr omp air pump and the little valve on the lower plenum of the intake here痴 where we池e at the car idles like it痴 bridge ported (it痴 not) and after 5 mins of driving the oil pressure goes to 0 from 30 any help on this situation would be greatly appreciated as I知 going insane😂 I will post a video
thank you
jim
thank you
jim
Based on your video, let the car fully warm or disable the thermowax. After that adjust the TPS screw per the FSM. After trying the adjustment with an ohm meter or the two light method, I found doing it with the two lights or both is best.
Most likely it will solve your ldle hunting. You many have many other problems to sort through after that. It is a good start though.
Also, you might be able to turn the TPS screw without the lights or meter and find a spot where it doesn't hunt, surge or whatever it's doing. Let the car warm up from there and then set the TPS. Having to listen to that while it's warming up would be kind of annoying.
Disabling the thermowax would probably be the best route to take though.
Edit: Check your oil pressure sender connector on the sender. Mine was good until I brushed by it to many times and it snapped off. Maybe it's something else but it's a good place to start.
Also, the double throttle diaphragm will leak even when passing a smoke test as does the BAC valve internally. The third is the EGR. It will require a block off plate and a cap on the vacuum line.
The thermowax test procedure is in the FSM.
Most likely it will solve your ldle hunting. You many have many other problems to sort through after that. It is a good start though.
Also, you might be able to turn the TPS screw without the lights or meter and find a spot where it doesn't hunt, surge or whatever it's doing. Let the car warm up from there and then set the TPS. Having to listen to that while it's warming up would be kind of annoying.
Disabling the thermowax would probably be the best route to take though.
Edit: Check your oil pressure sender connector on the sender. Mine was good until I brushed by it to many times and it snapped off. Maybe it's something else but it's a good place to start.
Also, the double throttle diaphragm will leak even when passing a smoke test as does the BAC valve internally. The third is the EGR. It will require a block off plate and a cap on the vacuum line.
The thermowax test procedure is in the FSM.
Last edited by Jeff76; Apr 30, 2025 at 09:00 AM.
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the thermowax rarely fails itself however the coolant passages through it tend to get clogged with calcium deposits or it gets an air pocket and stops functioning properly. you can remove the throttle body and check the condition of the ports for proper flow. you can also run hot water through it to make sure it is moving.
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