Hybrid turbo nightmare Ch. 3: Back to stock turbo... and Ch 4 blown motor
09-01-05, 01:15 PM
#51
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Originally Posted by felixwankel88
damm erik, sorry to hear about the engine.. like me just re re re re re build till you get it unfortanly apex seals could be eaten
COULD be eaten? There's no could about it
09-01-05, 05:55 PM
#53
Originally Posted by Terrh
man, that SUCKS about your luck!
yah, when I blow this motor up, I'm rebuilding the 2 s5 cores I have laying around in my garage, porting. etc.
230whp = teh ***!
my car made 244.6RWHP at 7PSI. Stock ports. Hybrid turbo.
I can't /wait/ for 17psi.. but I need more fuel and more i/c first!
don't get 720's... go straight for the big guns, 1000's or 1600's. youc an always turn them down but 720's really suck if you will want more than 250rwhp, you'll need bigger injectors.
my car is tuned pretty rich.. 10.8:1 AFR's under boost. I'm running 12PSI midrange now and it drops to 8 by redline, think I need a stiffer WG spring.
While you have it apart you should streetport it, then put the hybrid back on!
I like my JDM engine with 9.0:1 rotors, yay for 8000rpm redline
yah, when I blow this motor up, I'm rebuilding the 2 s5 cores I have laying around in my garage, porting. etc.
230whp = teh ***!
my car made 244.6RWHP at 7PSI. Stock ports. Hybrid turbo.
I can't /wait/ for 17psi.. but I need more fuel and more i/c first!
don't get 720's... go straight for the big guns, 1000's or 1600's. youc an always turn them down but 720's really suck if you will want more than 250rwhp, you'll need bigger injectors.
my car is tuned pretty rich.. 10.8:1 AFR's under boost. I'm running 12PSI midrange now and it drops to 8 by redline, think I need a stiffer WG spring.
While you have it apart you should streetport it, then put the hybrid back on!
I like my JDM engine with 9.0:1 rotors, yay for 8000rpm redline
Oh yeah, I have healthy street-porting on everything.
I guess my setup is a little questionable:
streetported with 9:4's
hybrid turbo
piggyback fuel controller with a Walbro 255 and 720's in the secondaries...
I don't know, I think the R-tek chip would help stave off detonation with the timing retardation after 10psi (right?)
My main concern with switching over to a standalone is the fact that I have no experience whatsoever. The piggy-back stuff is more managable.
From a big picture perspective, I was going to have to rebuild anyways since my compression has never been over the 90's (due to the out of spec side-seals).
It's obviously going to be a more costly rebuild, but like I said, it's all a learning process.
I'm definitely questioning my direction and whether or not my setup (with the addition of an R-tek) will safely be able to make 300whp.
The previous owner of the turbo dyno'd at 247whp at 11psi running ONLY 680's in the secondaries using an S-AFC to add around 15-20% more fuel in the upper RPM's. He was using the stock fuel pump and from what I know his A/F #'s were just fine.
I obviously made a lot of my decisions based on heresay and assumption (not recommended), but I figured if I put in bigger secondaries then he was running AND got the bigger fuel pump, I'd be fine.
But then again, he wasn't street-ported and wasn't running the N/A rotors.
Just a reminder, I was only running the stock turbo when I blew my motor.
Whatever, as soon as I'm broken in after the new rebuild, I'm dyno'ing and getting some real numbers... I think I'm just going to add the R-tek and tune rich.
09-01-05, 06:19 PM
#54
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720's are good for 300hp though I would recommend higher as well. At this point gas prices are through the roof. Going higher with injectors might not be the best idea for some people. I have 720 secondaries in mine right now, a Stage 3 BNR turbo, Walbro 255, SAFC-II, R-tek 1.5 and a Aeromotive FPR. I'm looking at hitting 300hp hopefully or somwhere really close. Soon my custom v-mount will be done with 3" piping throttle side. My car currently isnt ported and doesnt have to be at this point. If I was looking at somthing more than 300 then yes porting is recommended. Now from reading one of the posts im wondering if i should go over 10psi or not. I was hoping to hit 12, but if he says the stock ecu is limited. . . IDK.
Last edited by WallyHojo; 09-01-05 at 06:22 PM.
09-02-05, 03:19 PM
#57
Originally Posted by WallyHojo
720's are good for 300hp though I would recommend higher as well. At this point gas prices are through the roof. Going higher with injectors might not be the best idea for some people. I have 720 secondaries in mine right now, a Stage 3 BNR turbo, Walbro 255, SAFC-II, R-tek 1.5 and a Aeromotive FPR. I'm looking at hitting 300hp hopefully or somwhere really close. Soon my custom v-mount will be done with 3" piping throttle side. My car currently isnt ported and doesnt have to be at this point. If I was looking at somthing more than 300 then yes porting is recommended. Now from reading one of the posts im wondering if i should go over 10psi or not. I was hoping to hit 12, but if he says the stock ecu is limited. . . IDK.
The problem with ME running above 10psi (not sure if that's what you're referring to) is the fact that I'm using N/A rotors with a 9:4:1 compression ratio... Wheras the stock s4 TII rotors are 8:5. If it weren't for the 9:4's, my motor would probably still be alive and kicking.
Although it's probably not recommended that you push a stage 3 over 10 psi with only the 720's, the only way to really know your limit is to get your car hooked up to a wideband (obviously).
BTW, I had no idea there was another local TII on these boards... I know of maybe 4 or so, in the greater Seattle area who are on this forum.
09-02-05, 03:34 PM
#58
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My friend that came with me to give/get your cars those times (in the mustang) has a TII also. But his has about 185k miles on it original motor, and has a few other issues 
It'll be up and about eventually, then you'll know of another TII around this area
It'll be up and about eventually, then you'll know of another TII around this area
09-02-05, 05:17 PM
#60
Originally Posted by patman
the stock ECU cant handle 12 psi on 9.4:1 rotors
i kept the stock ecu up to 9 psi, and it was fine, but after that i had problems. at 14psi i had severe detonation. the 14 was an accident but i was lucky i didnt blow the motor. if you want to go over 10 psi, get a standalone. if you dont have the money, get a megasquirt, theyre cheap and work well.
i kept the stock ecu up to 9 psi, and it was fine, but after that i had problems. at 14psi i had severe detonation. the 14 was an accident but i was lucky i didnt blow the motor. if you want to go over 10 psi, get a standalone. if you dont have the money, get a megasquirt, theyre cheap and work well.
thank you.
09-02-05, 07:06 PM
#61
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Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
go ahead and do the work. the boost is still gonna bleed off just as much.
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