COULD be eaten? There's no could about it

 

My head hurts

 

Maybe try shortening your WG actuator rod? Not sure if it'll fix your boost bleeding off, but it should help a little... I know it solved a lot of my hybrid's boost problems when I did this mod in conjunction with an EBC.

Oh yeah, I have healthy street-porting on everything.


I guess my setup is a little questionable:

streetported with 9:4's
hybrid turbo
piggyback fuel controller with a Walbro 255 and 720's in the secondaries...

I don't know, I think the R-tek chip would help stave off detonation with the timing retardation after 10psi (right?)

My main concern with switching over to a standalone is the fact that I have no experience whatsoever. The piggy-back stuff is more managable.

From a big picture perspective, I was going to have to rebuild anyways since my compression has never been over the 90's (due to the out of spec side-seals).

It's obviously going to be a more costly rebuild, but like I said, it's all a learning process.

I'm definitely questioning my direction and whether or not my setup (with the addition of an R-tek) will safely be able to make 300whp.

The previous owner of the turbo dyno'd at 247whp at 11psi running ONLY 680's in the secondaries using an S-AFC to add around 15-20% more fuel in the upper RPM's. He was using the stock fuel pump and from what I know his A/F #'s were just fine.

I obviously made a lot of my decisions based on heresay and assumption (not recommended), but I figured if I put in bigger secondaries then he was running AND got the bigger fuel pump, I'd be fine.

But then again, he wasn't street-ported and wasn't running the N/A rotors.

Just a reminder, I was only running the stock turbo when I blew my motor.

Whatever, as soon as I'm broken in after the new rebuild, I'm dyno'ing and getting some real numbers... I think I'm just going to add the R-tek and tune rich.

 

720's are good for 300hp though I would recommend higher as well. At this point gas prices are through the roof. Going higher with injectors might not be the best idea for some people. I have 720 secondaries in mine right now, a Stage 3 BNR turbo, Walbro 255, SAFC-II, R-tek 1.5 and a Aeromotive FPR. I'm looking at hitting 300hp hopefully or somwhere really close. Soon my custom v-mount will be done with 3" piping throttle side. My car currently isnt ported and doesnt have to be at this point. If I was looking at somthing more than 300 then yes porting is recommended. Now from reading one of the posts im wondering if i should go over 10psi or not. I was hoping to hit 12, but if he says the stock ecu is limited. . . IDK.

 

you might be ok with he 720s... i was running the stock ecu with stock injectors and a FD pump.

 

55/720 is NOT ok for a BNR stage 3.

 

For the stage three, you'd probably want some more head-room than the 720's.

The problem with ME running above 10psi (not sure if that's what you're referring to) is the fact that I'm using N/A rotors with a 9:4:1 compression ratio... Wheras the stock s4 TII rotors are 8:5. If it weren't for the 9:4's, my motor would probably still be alive and kicking.

Although it's probably not recommended that you push a stage 3 over 10 psi with only the 720's, the only way to really know your limit is to get your car hooked up to a wideband (obviously).

BTW, I had no idea there was another local TII on these boards... I know of maybe 4 or so, in the greater Seattle area who are on this forum.

 

My friend that came with me to give/get your cars those times (in the mustang) has a TII also. But his has about 185k miles on it original motor, and has a few other issues

It'll be up and about eventually, then you'll know of another TII around this area

 

go ahead and do the work. the boost is still gonna bleed off just as much.

 

thank you.

 

I have, and guess what, it worked just fine!