by looking at some equations, with a 2600 pound car and 450 hp i can run mid 10sec passes, given that all the power is put to the ground. 520hp will be a 10sec pass.

 

[QUOTE=dean23;7882816]the thing is that im not looking for some drasticly stripped car. and im keeping my ps and anti-lock, because this is a DD, and i like to drive comfy. but there are little thinngs to change.

say a mit of a smaller iC, because the size of mine is useless, and is also dented in pretty bad from my dads truck hitch . if got a lighter flywheel for that tad of quicker acceleration and light rims. ill be getting even lighter rims to compensate for the larger tires required for a USUABLE amount of power.QUOTE]


May want to do some research on the wheels...since from what I understand w/centripetal acceleration a rim that is heavier takes more to get going but once it gets going gives more momentum and is easier to keep going w/less power......

This is what I remember from physics taken years ago....maybe wrong though....text books seem good at teaching kids how not to think...

 

^Yeup if you do the math outer rim/tire mass counts about double, plus lighter wheels helps handling. That's what I meant about it being possible to hit 2500 without gutting anything. You can save 10lbs. on the wheels, so at double that's 20lbs. right there. A light flywheel will help too, especially in 1st gear. There's also the spare tire (get repair kit? AAA?). I mean the Miata does it, so it can't be too impractical. Then there's other aluminum bits, etc. Check the FAQ, the hatch on one of the s5's is 10 lbs. lighter. If you can find it in the junkyard, then why not. You could get a light racing seat for driver's side only (probably want one anyway). Etc., etc.

 

well ive already got a 9 pound flywheel, borbet wheels and pirellis, S4 body and S5 engine, no spare. i think that puts me close to 2650. just a guess though.

and gnomesliv - your are right about centripital forces, but im more into quick acceleration. my car is a DD and doesnt like hondas....

 

OK i have deleted PS, emissions and AC(i found this really cool "cool box" that keeps me cool in the hot souf FLA summers(i.e. all year round)... other things I've taken out...

electric antenna, power seatbelt motors(both sides), front & rear windshield washer motors(rain-x is my isht) with a bare minumum exhaust.

What else can I take out and keep it streetable.

HAs anyone noticed how heay the glove box door is? How much do the headlight motors weigh? can I take those off and shine the lights thru the bumper lenses?

89 GTU with a 91 lump, lowered with teins sitting on black 18's

 

Lol, Aaron, that's why god invented dynomat!

Yeah, I totally look at my car as a whole package, not just "500hp".

I would MUCH rather live with:
-great suspension (Stance GR+, derlin bushings, fully bead blasted and powdercoated),
-brakes(FD calipers, EBC rotors and pads, SS lines, brake bias adjuster),
-nice exterior (FC2000/S5 conversion, Enkei RPF1's, brilliant black)
-bitchin interior (Sparco S Light CF, Nardi wheel, new carpet, Roll bar, 5pt takatas, -Garmin navigation, V1, Blinder, CB, Police scanner(full Polizei 144 kit)
-and a slightly slower engine: Street Ported 13BT using stock turbo, HKS BOV, Racing beat downpipe, custom 3" exhaust, OMP conversion kit, SS lines and AN fittings everywhere, balanced rotating assembly, coated everything, and tuned by someone like Steve Khaan or something.

...than a 500HP tin can that I cant drive every day.

 

I've removed many many things to get my 10th AE below 2500lbs. No AC, PS, obviously. But also many many little things. Rubber under carpet. (My carpet is still installed and car looks very stock on the inside). Under dash is gutted. rear tow hooks, and front left tow hook. All bbs rims. It sounds crazy but I even count bolts and nuts. Lightweight exhaust. But I could care less if I'm driving in comfort. Question is: How much comfort do you want?

450hp in a 2500lb car w/150lb driver is high 10sec car. You want that as a daily driver?

 

i agree with your list, but i would go with gram lights.... i like the style and weight. and i already have a street ported (weight reduction right there yo! hahahaha) engine. all im missing is the gt35r and mist kit

 

and like i said before. just cause i make 450 with the high end of a turbo doesnt mean im rocking it all day long. i actually want 2 40mm wastgates to plumb around my turbo some i can minimalize usage during the day to day. maybe 2 psi. but on the weekends when im on the highway 15-20 psi is there for the taking.
im going to keep my car comfortable and stylish, but remove what i dont need (ie. heavy rims gone, heavy flywheel gone, underdash clutter gone. might keep sound deadening though)

the fact i only way 160 keeps the weight down too.... best weight redustion is yourself....

 

What does your 7 weigh now?

I was at 2510 2 weeks ago with really heavy 18" rims. I gotta go back with the 15" BBS's.

 

ive never gotten on a scale to weigh it, so i couldnt tell ya. any ways to do it at home?? haha

 

If there is a local track in the area, you could pay admission fee and drive around back to weigh it. Also if there are any truck yards locally, you could get it weighed on their scales. Its extremely helpful to know where you are NOW, so you know how much you have to do to get where you want to be.

 

ive heard that for drag its better to have a heavier flywheel, i believe it builds more intertia wich means more torque....and if you really want to go faster why not get a different rear? that is one of the easier things to do to go faster

 

you don't "build" more inertia.....

It's easier to launch a heavy flywheel.....and the launch is one of the more important things in drag racing.

 

You're aware his cars have won races like Le Mans right? And his most famous and impressive vehicles weren't built by Ford...

Oh wait, you're a ******* idiot, damn, missed that part on your post. Way to go.

 

Like anything, there is diminishing returns on that, but yes, a heavy flywheel can be helpful in drag racing, especially with a low torque motor (actually, there are times it can be useful in road racing as well...).

 

lol, if there weren't diminshing returns, we'd have flywheels that would be in the 100's of lbs. Try to install that one yourself....

 

Obviously, my point was that the diminishing returns happen at a fairly low weight. Keeping RPM up when launching vs. slowing the acceleration of the vehicle with all that unnecessary rotating mass.

Of course, with enough torque, both of these become somewhat moot, especially the launch RPM.

 

For a given torque, the equivalent power may be calculated. The standard equation relating torque in foot-pounds, rotational speed in RPM and horsepower is:

P / {\rm hp} = {[\tau / ({\rm ft \cdot lbf})] [\omega / ({\rm r/min})] \over 5252}

Where P is power, τ is torque, and ω is rotations per minute. Outside the United States, most countries use the newton meter as the unit of torque. Most automobile specifications worldwide have torque listed in newton meters. The standard equation relating torque in newton meters, rotational speed in RPM and power in kilowatts is:

P / {\rm kW} = {[\tau / ({\rm N \cdot m })] [\omega / ({\rm r/min})] \over 9549}

These are based on Watt's definition of the mechanical horsepower. The constants 5252 and 9549 are rounded.

5252 comes from 33,000 (ft.lbf/min) / 2π (radians/revolution),

and 9549 comes from 60 (s/min) x 1000 (W/kW) / 2π (radians/revolution).

(Horsepower and torque are not the same thing. even though the equation for horsepower includes torque, this would be like saying torque is the same as force just because it is used in the equation for torque. Horsepower is used to describe how much power the engine is capable of, while torque is the directional force that moves mass.)