How in the world do you drop the Sub-frame to do a 5 lug conversion?
09-16-08, 03:44 PM
#1
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How in the world do you drop the Sub-frame to do a 5 lug conversion?
Ok, so my parts car has what appears to be a turbo II 5 lug conversion done to it at one point (vented rear rotors).
I am now wanting to swap the 5 lug parts to my car.
Problem: I can't get the sub frame to drop for the life of me. It's like it is stuck to the body. All the bolts i could fine that could be holding it on are losened. I left them on a few threads for safty due to me being under there trying to figure this out and not wanting to be crushed.
But i just can't get the sub-frame to move at all!
So how do you drop it?
Then as a secondary question, how do you tell if it is a turbo II LSD or an NA lsd?
I am now wanting to swap the 5 lug parts to my car.
Problem: I can't get the sub frame to drop for the life of me. It's like it is stuck to the body. All the bolts i could fine that could be holding it on are losened. I left them on a few threads for safty due to me being under there trying to figure this out and not wanting to be crushed.
But i just can't get the sub-frame to move at all!
So how do you drop it?
Then as a secondary question, how do you tell if it is a turbo II LSD or an NA lsd?
09-16-08, 03:53 PM
#3
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If you want the Diff you do... -but that is not a 5-lug swap... that is a diff swap 
use the search feature there are like a billion threads on the conversion.. both diff and 5 lug
use the search 
use the search feature there are like a billion threads on the conversion.. both diff and 5 lug
09-16-08, 04:00 PM
#4
take all the bolts/nuts out and use a jack (or two) to support it. make sure the ebrake cables are removed or the calipers are off the back. you kinda have to drop it evenly to make it easier. or just let it fall and stand on the back and rock it to free the front mounts (where it usually gets stuck)
09-16-08, 04:02 PM
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Used the search for 30 mins, came up with almost nothing. Just said remove a few bolts, never could find how many or what ones.
Or what the trick is to get it to drop.
The search just comes up with a million threads about other stuff.
Or what the trick is to get it to drop.
The search just comes up with a million threads about other stuff.
09-16-08, 04:05 PM
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take all the bolts/nuts out and use a jack (or two) to support it. make sure the ebrake cables are removed or the calipers are off the back. you kinda have to drop it evenly to make it easier. or just let it fall and stand on the back and rock it to free the front mounts (where it usually gets stuck)
Well i actually just want to let it drop to the tires (left them on so that the rotors don't get damaged).
So I just need ot get in there and start banging on a few things? It is common to get stuck?
Because i have not seen it/can't get it to move at all, like it is glued to the body.
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09-16-08, 07:59 PM
#8
you are probably missing something. it should start to fall pretty easy once everything is removed. take the tires off.
did you get the vertical bar that attaches to the frame between the 2 wheels?
there are also 2 nuts that go between the "ears" in the diff.
there are the 2 long studs in the front with a nut on the end. there should be a metal plate piece attaching each long stud to another stud on the chassis, there is a nut holding those on.
did you get the vertical bar that attaches to the frame between the 2 wheels?
there are also 2 nuts that go between the "ears" in the diff.
there are the 2 long studs in the front with a nut on the end. there should be a metal plate piece attaching each long stud to another stud on the chassis, there is a nut holding those on.
Last edited by 87 t-66; 09-16-08 at 08:03 PM.
09-16-08, 09:12 PM
#9
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I did miss the second bolt on that second picture you posted. But still no go, subframe still stuck to the body.
Course i had to quite early to go pick up a 92 MR2 Turbo for $1500 tonight. So will try again tomorrow.
Course i had to quite early to go pick up a 92 MR2 Turbo for $1500 tonight. So will try again tomorrow.
09-23-08, 05:10 PM
#13
I have the Series 4 and 5 factory service manuals in PDF form on my website (in sig, below.) There should be at least a couple of good pics in there on the subframe, as well as step by step on removing it.
Also, I'm in the mid-cities if you think that you need help. I've only just started playing with FCs, but I've had my '79 GS and other first-gen '7s for a dozen years or so.
We have an Rotary get-together on the first Saturday of each month, up in Irving - check the South regional forum for info and announcements.
Also, I'm in the mid-cities if you think that you need help. I've only just started playing with FCs, but I've had my '79 GS and other first-gen '7s for a dozen years or so.
We have an Rotary get-together on the first Saturday of each month, up in Irving - check the South regional forum for info and announcements.
09-23-08, 06:19 PM
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Never really thought about looking in the FSM for the sub-frame. I will check that out.
I just got an MR2 so i have kinda let the RX7 sit. Need to get back out there and get it finished.
Too bad irving is so far from me, that would be cool to actully see another rotary. I have seen 1, count them 1 RX7 other then my own on the streets around here. It was a nice looking one though, I think it was a 10th AE, but could not see if it was a turbo or not, other cars were blocking it.
I just got an MR2 so i have kinda let the RX7 sit. Need to get back out there and get it finished.
Too bad irving is so far from me, that would be cool to actully see another rotary. I have seen 1, count them 1 RX7 other then my own on the streets around here. It was a nice looking one though, I think it was a 10th AE, but could not see if it was a turbo or not, other cars were blocking it.
09-23-08, 06:35 PM
#15
Look in section 13 - Suspension. Page 13-28 is the removal and installation of the sub-frame, with a diagram.
MR2 - Feh! It has not a rotary engine! It is, at least, rear-wheel drive...
Irving isn't that far for a once-a-month meeting. C'mon! I can't guarantee massive attendance. We've had 20-odd cars show up before, but this month, we had 5. It varies.
It's actually at 635 and MacArthur, pretty easy to get to. We've had people form OK down, Garland, Plano, etc. Irving is more-or-less central for the area.
MR2 - Feh! It has not a rotary engine! It is, at least, rear-wheel drive...
Irving isn't that far for a once-a-month meeting. C'mon! I can't guarantee massive attendance. We've had 20-odd cars show up before, but this month, we had 5. It varies.
It's actually at 635 and MacArthur, pretty easy to get to. We've had people form OK down, Garland, Plano, etc. Irving is more-or-less central for the area.
09-23-08, 07:03 PM
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Look in section 13 - Suspension. Page 13-28 is the removal and installation of the sub-frame, with a diagram.
MR2 - Feh! It has not a rotary engine! It is, at least, rear-wheel drive...
Irving isn't that far for a once-a-month meeting. C'mon! I can't guarantee massive attendance. We've had 20-odd cars show up before, but this month, we had 5. It varies.
It's actually at 635 and MacArthur, pretty easy to get to. We've had people form OK down, Garland, Plano, etc. Irving is more-or-less central for the area.
MR2 - Feh! It has not a rotary engine! It is, at least, rear-wheel drive...
Irving isn't that far for a once-a-month meeting. C'mon! I can't guarantee massive attendance. We've had 20-odd cars show up before, but this month, we had 5. It varies.
It's actually at 635 and MacArthur, pretty easy to get to. We've had people form OK down, Garland, Plano, etc. Irving is more-or-less central for the area.
Thing is i need an RX7 i can drive first....lol Who knows i might make it some time, though it IS a pretty good drive for me.
Yes, that is why i didn't know if it was a 10th AE of not. it had the all white paint but it could have been a GXL or something. I could not see the hood or rims to know for sure.
09-23-08, 08:00 PM
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I forgot the bar on the DS that is kinda hidden up there the first time I dropped mine... ticked me off for a good 15 mins before i walked away long enough to calm down and take another look haha. Get under the car on the drivers side between the wheels and take a look in that direction... There are only like 9 bolts that hold that thing in there...
09-23-08, 10:37 PM
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so 9 bolts for the subframe?
I have removed 8 so far so i must have missed one, unless you are not counting the shocks in that number then i have only removed 6.
I have removed 8 so far so i must have missed one, unless you are not counting the shocks in that number then i have only removed 6.
09-24-08, 12:12 AM
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its been a while since i did it...
4 on the front corners (2 per bracket) 4 on the shocks (2 per shock) 2 on the differential itself (one on each side) and one bolt on the 'hidden' bar i was talking about...
like I said, its been a while and the car (and the shop manual) are both... well... at the shop haha. just take a good look up under there and you should see everything.
4 on the front corners (2 per bracket) 4 on the shocks (2 per shock) 2 on the differential itself (one on each side) and one bolt on the 'hidden' bar i was talking about...
like I said, its been a while and the car (and the shop manual) are both... well... at the shop haha. just take a good look up under there and you should see everything.
09-24-08, 10:48 AM
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Well that hidden bar you mentioned is new to me, does it keep the subframe from moving at all? Or will it let it sag some? Because it is like mine is glued to the body. It won't budge.
09-24-08, 12:10 PM
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http://lh4.ggpht.com/ijalob/SBCcZdhu...0/IMG_2736.JPG
that mount just to the right of the differential housing is where that bar attaches...
that mount just to the right of the differential housing is where that bar attaches...
09-24-08, 02:15 PM
#25
its easy to do the 5 lug swap. U wont neeed to drop the rear subframe, but for the diff u do. T2 diffs are beefier, bigger than the na ones.. thats how ican tell. To remove the rear knuckle, just unbolt the shock 17mm, then all the other stuff thats linked to it.. then unbolt the halfshaft with a breaker bar, make sure u pop open the lock tab on the nut first.. then justswap it over... The diff is a pain to do tho..