ShIvER[PT]

I think that the guys at mazda garage charge money for the compression check. and more than that, the car is "broken down" so noone bough it yet. I would like it to stay like that (it has no alternator belt so it can't move anywhere)
if coolant seals are broken, or the apex seals would I notice it on this test?

http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ro...lder/comp.html

SureShot

When you pull the plugs to check compression, look at them for black/fouled or corrosion problems.
If they are clean & gray or tan, your odds get better.

RETed

Coolant seal failure does not necessarily appear on a compression check - even a Mazda one.
Loss of coolant will be obvious.

Apex seal failure WILL easily appear on a quick&dirty compression check.


-Ted

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Speaking of quick and dirty, here it is: http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.htm

ShIvER[PT]

well I don't know if U guys agree with me, but I think it's coolant seals are KO.. the apex seals might be fine. I couldn't do the poor man check cause neither me or my friend have a plug tool.. but I did something:
I filled it to the very top of the radiator cap. then removel the egi fuse and cranked it.. as someone told me, nothing hapened. but then I tried to start it with the fuse on and it was REALLY hard to start, but it eventually started.. I tried to rev it to show to my friend how bad it was, sluggish as the last time I went there.. BUT to my surprise once it reached like 3000rpm or sumthing it was fine!! reved up and down.. had what I think it is it's normal power.. but still couldn't hold idle.. once I droped the throtle it died. but then it started easy. I reved it a bit harder (didn't full throtle, but I did reach the buzzer once), and then it would idle.. even less rought that it used to. so it was back to how I first found it. my friend told me that it trew A HUGE LOT of smoke !! I didn't see many, but I wasn't paying attention.. and then I went to the front and the radiator cap was overflowing.. (not overflowing but it had overflown before I looked at it). my guess, coolant seals KO..
if I go there next time and it doesn't start again, it's confirmed right?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

What colour is the smoke? What does it smell like?

ShIvER[PT]

sorry I didn't reply right away, but I had to go out to school.. :P
erm the smell is weird.. can't recognize it, but it doesn't smell like my friend's s4 TII. I didn't see it much.. I only noticed it when it was floating around the door. my friend saw it, and I believe he told be that he wasn't sure if it was pure white but it was pretty bright. coolant right?

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

that'd probably be coolant seals... sucks

ShIvER[PT]

rebuild then, right?

Parastie

You can give Block Weld a shot, it's on RR's website. Not recommended unless you have no other options.

ShIvER[PT]

:s nope
I wanna do things right!! I want this car to last a really long time.. Ill keep it forever If I manage to. I really like it!
(and notice that I still don't have it !! )

RETed

Smell your coolant?
Does it smell like exhaust???


-Ted

ShIvER[PT]

I didn't smeel it.. but I looked at it, it looked oilly.. but could be my impression.
the engine bay smelled like exhaust and fuel tough..

Parastie

Was this right after starting the car? It might have been caused by it sitting there for a long time.

ShIvER[PT]

I had started it before a few weeks back, and it worked "fine". had it's problems but revved fine! hard start and really rough idle.
and no one started it for a long time.. the door was stuck when I opened it (kinda glued)

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Pure white and sweet smelling/tasting would indicate coolant.

The block weld trick is ONLY good if you have no other choice. DO NOT use it if you plan on rebuilding the engine, because the block weld will clog nearly everything. You'll also clog your rad and heater core.