How to TEST MOP?????
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,764
Likes: 6
From: Yellowknife, NT
Hey, it seems that my engine is leaking oil at the MOP and seems to be burning an excess of oil! so i was wondering if any of you could give me the exact way to test the MOP!!! I did a search did nor find anythign! i think that this is the cause of my smoke too much oil!!!
Well i need to know what to disconnect and at what revvs and how much oil!
i ordered a Haynes but it has been three weeks still not in i cannot drive my car until i safety it and i cannot do that until i fix the smoke!
Thanx!
Well i need to know what to disconnect and at what revvs and how much oil!
i ordered a Haynes but it has been three weeks still not in i cannot drive my car until i safety it and i cannot do that until i fix the smoke!
Thanx!
remove the three bolts with a 10 mm socket. Pull off the OMP and look at the face that goes up against the motor. You will see the O-ring in a sort of diamond shape. Pick it out with a knife or needle and clean the area and put in a new one. You could probably get away with a generic automotive O-ring from a local parts store. Just take in the old one and match it up.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,764
Likes: 6
From: Yellowknife, NT
well currious that doesn't help me much i can anybody scan the haynes manual section to test the MOP? and email it to me!? because i am waiting for CANADIAN TIre to get mine in but it has been two weeks now and i kind of want to see if it is working or not! if you could do this would be great!
jreynish1@shaw.ca
jreynish1@shaw.ca
I wish I was driving!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 5,241
Likes: 84
From: BC, Canada
Didn't I tell you how to do this?
Remove the front two lines. Connect scrap hoses in their place. Rum the engine at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes and measure the output. Should be between 5.5 and 6.5 cc's (mL's).
I replaced the O-ring when I did the swap. I have another one laying around if you want it. It is in the shape of a running track.
Could also be the copper crush washers and 5-point crush piece. Those were not replaced.
IIRC, replacing the lines would be a great idea on your car ($150 cdn), replacing the copper crush washers at the same time. For now, just tighten the banjo bolts a little, and perhaps also the 3 mounting bolts, though I set those with a torque wrench.
Remove the front two lines. Connect scrap hoses in their place. Rum the engine at 2000 rpm for 5 minutes and measure the output. Should be between 5.5 and 6.5 cc's (mL's).
I replaced the O-ring when I did the swap. I have another one laying around if you want it. It is in the shape of a running track.
Could also be the copper crush washers and 5-point crush piece. Those were not replaced.
IIRC, replacing the lines would be a great idea on your car ($150 cdn), replacing the copper crush washers at the same time. For now, just tighten the banjo bolts a little, and perhaps also the 3 mounting bolts, though I set those with a torque wrench.
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