How to tell which AC compressor I have ? Plus how to recharge ?
06-06-09, 04:23 PM
#1
How to tell which AC compressor I have ? Plus how to recharge ?
Between Nippodenso or Sanden.
How to tell ? does it said on the AC compressor itself ?
and I think the system uses R12, but hmm should I go to any place and ask them to recharge it or what ?
Thanks
How to tell ? does it said on the AC compressor itself ?
and I think the system uses R12, but hmm should I go to any place and ask them to recharge it or what ?
Thanks
06-06-09, 05:42 PM
#2
Caramelldansen
Join Date: May 2005
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I believe the FSM points out the differences between the two types, and I'd guess that the compressor themselves are marked with either Sanden/Nippo.
Yes they originally came with R12 and you should be able to take it to any AC shop and they can recharge it but it will be rather expensive.
You can have it converted to r134a and any of the dozen advertised r12-replacement coolants.
Try searching for "summer", there was a huge thread that looked at the issue of AC and the different coolant types. Basically from what I remember r12 is your best bet because naturally our AC systems were originally designed to use it. r134a can make things run a bit hot but usually works decent enough. And there are varying opinions on the r12-replacements such as Freeze 12.
Granted you're on the east coast, how hot can it get? Rip all that **** out, weight reduction yo. =P
Yes they originally came with R12 and you should be able to take it to any AC shop and they can recharge it but it will be rather expensive.
You can have it converted to r134a and any of the dozen advertised r12-replacement coolants.
Try searching for "summer", there was a huge thread that looked at the issue of AC and the different coolant types. Basically from what I remember r12 is your best bet because naturally our AC systems were originally designed to use it. r134a can make things run a bit hot but usually works decent enough. And there are varying opinions on the r12-replacements such as Freeze 12.
Granted you're on the east coast, how hot can it get? Rip all that **** out, weight reduction yo. =P
06-07-09, 12:46 PM
#4
Smoke moar
Yeah some shops may not beable to, don't let it get converted it will cost but the system has to be leak free, and R12 should last atleast 10years of average usage, r134a goes bad pretty quick and doesnt generally cool much, wasnt there just another thread today on this? Lol.
btw OP that burger looks delicious.
btw OP that burger looks delicious.
06-07-09, 01:01 PM
#5
Yeah cmanns there is totally another thread going on this.
OP ... DO NOT change it over to r-134a this is a bad idea. You can find any reputable a/c shop to do r-12, the operative word is reputable. Also have them check for leaks first, and then have it charged. Should be on the vacuum for at least an hour to ensure that the r-12 charge is done proper. I just wish I knew how many lbs of r-12 the system holds, but I can't find it in the FSM specs sheet to save my life.
OP ... DO NOT change it over to r-134a this is a bad idea. You can find any reputable a/c shop to do r-12, the operative word is reputable. Also have them check for leaks first, and then have it charged. Should be on the vacuum for at least an hour to ensure that the r-12 charge is done proper. I just wish I knew how many lbs of r-12 the system holds, but I can't find it in the FSM specs sheet to save my life.
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06-07-09, 06:23 PM
#8
I believe the FSM points out the differences between the two types, and I'd guess that the compressor themselves are marked with either Sanden/Nippo.
Yes they originally came with R12 and you should be able to take it to any AC shop and they can recharge it but it will be rather expensive.
You can have it converted to r134a and any of the dozen advertised r12-replacement coolants.
Try searching for "summer", there was a huge thread that looked at the issue of AC and the different coolant types. Basically from what I remember r12 is your best bet because naturally our AC systems were originally designed to use it. r134a can make things run a bit hot but usually works decent enough. And there are varying opinions on the r12-replacements such as Freeze 12.
Yes they originally came with R12 and you should be able to take it to any AC shop and they can recharge it but it will be rather expensive.
You can have it converted to r134a and any of the dozen advertised r12-replacement coolants.
Try searching for "summer", there was a huge thread that looked at the issue of AC and the different coolant types. Basically from what I remember r12 is your best bet because naturally our AC systems were originally designed to use it. r134a can make things run a bit hot but usually works decent enough. And there are varying opinions on the r12-replacements such as Freeze 12.
I will not convert it to R134a, my 8 uses R134a and it SUCK ***. my god.
Granted you're on the east coast, how hot can it get? Rip all that **** out, weight reduction yo. =P
(like Roen saids, too humid) Yeah some shops may not beable to, don't let it get converted it will cost but the system has to be leak free, and R12 should last atleast 10years of average usage, r134a goes bad pretty quick and doesnt generally cool much, wasnt there just another thread today on this? Lol.
btw OP that burger looks delicious.
Yeah cmanns there is totally another thread going on this.
OP ... DO NOT change it over to r-134a this is a bad idea. You can find any reputable a/c shop to do r-12, the operative word is reputable. Also have them check for leaks first, and then have it charged. Should be on the vacuum for at least an hour to ensure that the r-12 charge is done proper. I just wish I knew how many lbs of r-12 the system holds, but I can't find it in the FSM specs sheet to save my life.
OP ... DO NOT change it over to r-134a this is a bad idea. You can find any reputable a/c shop to do r-12, the operative word is reputable. Also have them check for leaks first, and then have it charged. Should be on the vacuum for at least an hour to ensure that the r-12 charge is done proper. I just wish I knew how many lbs of r-12 the system holds, but I can't find it in the FSM specs sheet to save my life.
Oh I have another question to all you guys.
Since I plan on doing it myself. after further research on this site, it seems that some people recommend changing all the o-rings.
I found the o-rings part # and will order them soon. Im just wondering, replacing the o-rings also means Im going to take all the pipes off, wouldn't that bring dirt into the system ? a Vacuum pump can fix all that right ? and while the pipes are all out, I can go ahead and "wash" them right? of course I will make sure there is no soap or whatever left before I put it back. just wondering if its ok (cuz the pipes are really dirty, I like my engine bay clean :P)
and ... there are probably some R12 left in the system, how do I "release" it before I open it. cuz opening some pipes thats under pressure seems dangerous to me
(sorry for da stupid questions, never worked on a AC systems before, I wanna learn, even tho I could end up learning it in a "hard way", lets just hope that I wont kill myself for doing it. lol!)
06-07-09, 06:44 PM
#9
Some tips.
Don't replace orings that aren't leaking. You are asking for problems by taking those fittings apart.
Get a large oring kit at the parts store. For $20 you can get all the green orings that you will ever need in all the sizes possible.
Replace the drier. Just do it. It shouldn't be salvaged when you don't know it's history.
Replace the orings in the access caps. If you don't have caps, get them.
If you must flush, use mineral spirits, blow clean with air gun. Let it completely airdry for a day of so before you reassemble.
You can't flush a compressor with solvent. Ok, you can, but you will ruin it. Add clean mineral oil and crank it by hand, 20-30 rotations.. Dump it and do again. And add crank and dump it one more time. Now you compressor is 'flushed' properly.
You can't flush a condenser-if it is clogged, get a new one.
You can't flush an expansion valve-get a new one.
Use mineral oil for R12. Use Ester for Freeze12 or 134a. Don't use PAG in any system that has ever had R12 in it. Don't use PAG unless your OEM specs it.
Avoid using 134a, even in your climate. It just won't balance in an RX7, no matter what a shop will tell you.
R12 is KING 10out of 10. Freeze 12 is 9/10. 134a is 6/10. Anything that is fuel based is bullshit. If they have to try to assure you how safe it is, it isn't.
Vacuum must be in excess of 29.5" of mercury for 20+ minutes. It should hold when you are done. If your vacuum pump runs off an air-compressor, it is bullshit-those cannot create a vacuum deep enough to accomplish what you need.
Your system uses 29 oz of R12.
It requires 6 oz of mineral oil.
Add 3 to the new drier-add three to the compressor after you flush/drain it the last time...
Good luck, ask me questions-I can help.
Jack
Don't replace orings that aren't leaking. You are asking for problems by taking those fittings apart.
Get a large oring kit at the parts store. For $20 you can get all the green orings that you will ever need in all the sizes possible.
Replace the drier. Just do it. It shouldn't be salvaged when you don't know it's history.
Replace the orings in the access caps. If you don't have caps, get them.
If you must flush, use mineral spirits, blow clean with air gun. Let it completely airdry for a day of so before you reassemble.
You can't flush a compressor with solvent. Ok, you can, but you will ruin it. Add clean mineral oil and crank it by hand, 20-30 rotations.. Dump it and do again. And add crank and dump it one more time. Now you compressor is 'flushed' properly.
You can't flush a condenser-if it is clogged, get a new one.
You can't flush an expansion valve-get a new one.
Use mineral oil for R12. Use Ester for Freeze12 or 134a. Don't use PAG in any system that has ever had R12 in it. Don't use PAG unless your OEM specs it.
Avoid using 134a, even in your climate. It just won't balance in an RX7, no matter what a shop will tell you.
R12 is KING 10out of 10. Freeze 12 is 9/10. 134a is 6/10. Anything that is fuel based is bullshit. If they have to try to assure you how safe it is, it isn't.
Vacuum must be in excess of 29.5" of mercury for 20+ minutes. It should hold when you are done. If your vacuum pump runs off an air-compressor, it is bullshit-those cannot create a vacuum deep enough to accomplish what you need.
Your system uses 29 oz of R12.
It requires 6 oz of mineral oil.
Add 3 to the new drier-add three to the compressor after you flush/drain it the last time...
Good luck, ask me questions-I can help.
Jack
06-07-09, 06:45 PM
#10
Yeah, I found the section in the FSM.
I will not convert it to R134a, my 8 uses R134a and it SUCK ***. my god.
no way, unless I want to kill myself (like Roen saids, too humid)
Planning to do everything myself, see below.
lol ! Thats a MegaMac from Mc donaldos in Japan. Had it 2 yrs ago. :P
I think the system holds around 30 lbs of R12.
Oh I have another question to all you guys.
Since I plan on doing it myself. after further research on this site, it seems that some people recommend changing all the o-rings.
I found the o-rings part # and will order them soon. Im just wondering, replacing the o-rings also means Im going to take all the pipes off, wouldn't that bring dirt into the system ? a Vacuum pump can fix all that right ? and while the pipes are all out, I can go ahead and "wash" them right? of course I will make sure there is no soap or whatever left before I put it back. just wondering if its ok (cuz the pipes are really dirty, I like my engine bay clean :P)
and ... there are probably some R12 left in the system, how do I "release" it before I open it. cuz opening some pipes thats under pressure seems dangerous to me
(sorry for da stupid questions, never worked on a AC systems before, I wanna learn, even tho I could end up learning it in a "hard way", lets just hope that I wont kill myself for doing it. lol!)
I will not convert it to R134a, my 8 uses R134a and it SUCK ***. my god.
no way, unless I want to kill myself
(like Roen saids, too humid) Planning to do everything myself, see below.
lol ! Thats a MegaMac from Mc donaldos in Japan. Had it 2 yrs ago. :P
I think the system holds around 30 lbs of R12.
Oh I have another question to all you guys.
Since I plan on doing it myself. after further research on this site, it seems that some people recommend changing all the o-rings.
I found the o-rings part # and will order them soon. Im just wondering, replacing the o-rings also means Im going to take all the pipes off, wouldn't that bring dirt into the system ? a Vacuum pump can fix all that right ? and while the pipes are all out, I can go ahead and "wash" them right? of course I will make sure there is no soap or whatever left before I put it back. just wondering if its ok (cuz the pipes are really dirty, I like my engine bay clean :P)
and ... there are probably some R12 left in the system, how do I "release" it before I open it. cuz opening some pipes thats under pressure seems dangerous to me
(sorry for da stupid questions, never worked on a AC systems before, I wanna learn, even tho I could end up learning it in a "hard way", lets just hope that I wont kill myself for doing it. lol!)
Your system does NOT hold 30 pounds of Freon.. Maybe 30 OUNCES but not 30 pounds.
You can wash your systems lines out, but they need to be DRIED completely, and then you will have to draw a vac on the system once its completely sealed. Make sure it holds the vac also, as this can tell you if there are any leaks. Also, use freeze 12 not R 12 unless you want to go broke and do you have a recovery license? If not you cant purchase either product.
Lastly the proper way to evacuate whats left in your system is to have it recovered, but there is a good chance that system is depleted anyways.
06-07-09, 06:55 PM
#14
Some tips.
Don't replace orings that aren't leaking. You are asking for problems by taking those fittings apart.
Get a large oring kit at the parts store. For $20 you can get all the green orings that you will ever need in all the sizes possible.
Replace the drier. Just do it. It shouldn't be salvaged when you don't know it's history.
Replace the orings in the access caps. If you don't have caps, get them.
If you must flush, use mineral spirits, blow clean with air gun. Let it completely airdry for a day of so before you reassemble.
You can't flush a compressor with solvent. Ok, you can, but you will ruin it. Add clean mineral oil and crank it by hand, 20-30 rotations.. Dump it and do again. And add crank and dump it one more time. Now you compressor is 'flushed' properly.
You can't flush a condenser-if it is clogged, get a new one.
You can't flush an expansion valve-get a new one.
Use mineral oil for R12. Use Ester for Freeze12 or 134a. Don't use PAG in any system that has ever had R12 in it. Don't use PAG unless your OEM specs it.
Avoid using 134a, even in your climate. It just won't balance in an RX7, no matter what a shop will tell you.
R12 is KING 10out of 10. Freeze 12 is 9/10. 134a is 6/10. Anything that is fuel based is bullshit. If they have to try to assure you how safe it is, it isn't.
Vacuum must be in excess of 29.5" of mercury for 20+ minutes. It should hold when you are done. If your vacuum pump runs off an air-compressor, it is bullshit-those cannot create a vacuum deep enough to accomplish what you need.
Your system uses 29 oz of R12.
It requires 6 oz of mineral oil.
Add 3 to the new drier-add three to the compressor after you flush/drain it the last time...
Good luck, ask me questions-I can help.
Jack
Don't replace orings that aren't leaking. You are asking for problems by taking those fittings apart.
Get a large oring kit at the parts store. For $20 you can get all the green orings that you will ever need in all the sizes possible.
Replace the drier. Just do it. It shouldn't be salvaged when you don't know it's history.
Replace the orings in the access caps. If you don't have caps, get them.
If you must flush, use mineral spirits, blow clean with air gun. Let it completely airdry for a day of so before you reassemble.
You can't flush a compressor with solvent. Ok, you can, but you will ruin it. Add clean mineral oil and crank it by hand, 20-30 rotations.. Dump it and do again. And add crank and dump it one more time. Now you compressor is 'flushed' properly.
You can't flush a condenser-if it is clogged, get a new one.
You can't flush an expansion valve-get a new one.
Use mineral oil for R12. Use Ester for Freeze12 or 134a. Don't use PAG in any system that has ever had R12 in it. Don't use PAG unless your OEM specs it.
Avoid using 134a, even in your climate. It just won't balance in an RX7, no matter what a shop will tell you.
R12 is KING 10out of 10. Freeze 12 is 9/10. 134a is 6/10. Anything that is fuel based is bullshit. If they have to try to assure you how safe it is, it isn't.
Vacuum must be in excess of 29.5" of mercury for 20+ minutes. It should hold when you are done. If your vacuum pump runs off an air-compressor, it is bullshit-those cannot create a vacuum deep enough to accomplish what you need.
Your system uses 29 oz of R12.
It requires 6 oz of mineral oil.
Add 3 to the new drier-add three to the compressor after you flush/drain it the last time...
Good luck, ask me questions-I can help.
Jack
Your system does NOT hold 30 pounds of Freon.. Maybe 30 OUNCES but not 30 pounds.
You can wash your systems lines out, but they need to be DRIED completely, and then you will have to draw a vac on the system once its completely sealed. Make sure it holds the vac also, as this can tell you if there are any leaks. Also, use freeze 12 not R 12 unless you want to go broke and do you have a recovery license? If not you cant purchase either product.
Lastly the proper way to evacuate whats left in your system is to have it recovered, but there is a good chance that system is depleted anyways.
You can wash your systems lines out, but they need to be DRIED completely, and then you will have to draw a vac on the system once its completely sealed. Make sure it holds the vac also, as this can tell you if there are any leaks. Also, use freeze 12 not R 12 unless you want to go broke and do you have a recovery license? If not you cant purchase either product.
Lastly the proper way to evacuate whats left in your system is to have it recovered, but there is a good chance that system is depleted anyways.
Question :
Almost all the A/C threads talked about "replacing the drier". Is THIS the drier you guys all talked about ?
8572-61-510 TANK-RES
06-07-09, 06:58 PM
#15
Yes, your fuel system has more flammables but you aren't running gas out front in the crumple zone, are you?
The dude that promoted this for years blew himself up during a public safety demonstration. Most all the advertising copy and statements of safety come from his reports written from down under for the last 15 years. He was forced to retire from his University position in shame, totally discredited.
And ask Louis Ott about his 928 fire. You do know Louis, don't you?
One other thing, J-Rat-, this discussion doesn't help the OP with his needs. He is a beginner and needs straightforward help, not theoretical bullshit discussions from you and me.
Peace and let's discuss this over a beer sometime.
Jack
06-07-09, 07:08 PM
#16
Freeze12 is just fine. R12 is king. 134a suck in our 2nd gen RX7's.
06-07-09, 08:57 PM
#19
Bullshit. It does not perform with a damn. Maybe it works well enough for you. I have tried them all and I have blended my own. My primary objection to HC refrigerants is that thy cool like ***. If you want an alternative 'non EPA' refrigerant, research R152. I like it alot.
some more info on R152A (approved for auto use)
Early OEM testing with R152a has been promising. The chemical has similar properties to R134a, so, design engineers have been able to test the refrigerant in current production systems with only minor modifications. Since R-152a is rated flammable, special leak detection sensors and emergency release valves will have to be built into the systems for occupant safety. Flash fire is not the only concern with R-152a. If ignited, R-152a decomposes into hydrogen fluoride which can be deadly toxic to the human body.
R-152a is flammable. It should only be used in systems that are design certified for use with R-152a.
source: http://www.r152a.com/
Yes, your fuel system has more flammables but you aren't running gas out front in the crumple zone, are you?
The dude that promoted this for years blew himself up during a public safety demonstration. Most all the advertising copy and statements of safety come from his reports written from down under for the last 15 years. He was forced to retire from his University position in shame, totally discredited.
[nd ask Louis Ott about his 928 fire. You do know Louis, don't you?
One other thing, J-Rat-, this discussion doesn't help the OP with his needs. He is a beginner and needs straightforward help, not theoretical bullshit discussions from you and me.
One other thing, J-Rat-, this discussion doesn't help the OP with his needs. He is a beginner and needs straightforward help, not theoretical bullshit discussions from you and me.
06-07-09, 11:35 PM
#21
Somethings fishy- I think we actually agree!
I happen to like it alot and have recorded very good temperatures at the vent. Not sure about R152 (or 152a?) but they dont seem to be approved for vehicular use.
some more info on R152A (approved for auto use)
Early OEM testing with R152a has been promising. The chemical has similar properties to R134a, so, design engineers have been able to test the refrigerant in current production systems with only minor modifications. Since R-152a is rated flammable, special leak detection sensors and emergency release valves will have to be built into the systems for occupant safety. Flash fire is not the only concern with R-152a. If ignited, R-152a decomposes into hydrogen fluoride which can be deadly toxic to the human body.
R-152a is flammable. It should only be used in systems that are design certified for use with R-152a.
source: http://www.r152a.com/
Yes, with a flashpoint in excess of 300 deg. R134 will flash at about 400 deg.. Not much of a differential...
Can you prove this? I would like to read about it...
Nope, dont know him but I say this IS a discussion that warrants some time. You say freeze 12 sucks, I say it doesnt and have used it for YEARS with no problems. So should we all just take your opinion as fact or is contradictory discussion allowed?
some more info on R152A (approved for auto use)
Early OEM testing with R152a has been promising. The chemical has similar properties to R134a, so, design engineers have been able to test the refrigerant in current production systems with only minor modifications. Since R-152a is rated flammable, special leak detection sensors and emergency release valves will have to be built into the systems for occupant safety. Flash fire is not the only concern with R-152a. If ignited, R-152a decomposes into hydrogen fluoride which can be deadly toxic to the human body.
R-152a is flammable. It should only be used in systems that are design certified for use with R-152a.
source: http://www.r152a.com/
Yes, with a flashpoint in excess of 300 deg. R134 will flash at about 400 deg.. Not much of a differential...
Can you prove this? I would like to read about it...
Nope, dont know him but I say this IS a discussion that warrants some time. You say freeze 12 sucks, I say it doesnt and have used it for YEARS with no problems. So should we all just take your opinion as fact or is contradictory discussion allowed?
Oh, I see, you are mistaking Freeze12 for HC type refrigerant! They are not the same thing. Freeze12 is a blend of 80% 134a plus 20%-142b. The 142b does two things: it carries the mineral oil (miscible in oil) throughout the system and it also reduces the head pressure below that of pure 134a. Freeze12 performs nearly as well as R12, within a few percent. Freeze12 is safe! When R12 is not available I will likely use Freeze12. Ok, maybe I will use 152a.
I was criticizing Hydrocarbon-fuel based refrigerants Propane +butane that are NOT EPA approved and banned from all use and sale in 19 states.
Just for fun-here is the *** who promoted HC refrigerants for years. Dr Ian Maclaine-cross, University of South New Wales http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k0K1WPCWm2k
06-08-09, 05:41 AM
#24
You can get a drier bottle at most good auto parts stores. Napa had mine, but I have an s5 and I had to get what they list as an s4 bottle. I took mine in for comparison to the picture and when they got it in stock. The s5 they had was not proper for some reason. If anyone interested in the part # pm's me I can get it when I get home. The condenser can be taken to a good A/C repair shop and tested and cleaned, a lot of the time they dip them in solvent to clean them. I had my oil cooler cleaned and flow tested per warranty for my engine rebuild at my A/C shop.
06-08-09, 05:45 AM
#25
The o-ring he speaks of is the one in the access cap to fill the A/C system or evacuate it. It is located in the short tube that goes out of the A/C drier bottle as your 1st picture shows. Look at the drier bottle and then see the short S or Z shaped pipe coming out of it. There should be a cap there for servicing the system.