How replace rear hatch molding
01-17-06, 03:10 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: WEST
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gbowers
Anyone know how to replace rear hatch black molding between glass and black metal frame on FC?
Ahh.. I've done it. You're talking about the outer moulding right? You can get the replacement moulding from the dealer at about $110 I think.
I'm not sure if you want to save it or replace it but if you're saving it, do it when it's warm out to it stays pliable. Remove the bottom piece carefully and just pull it out the moulding carefully.
01-17-06, 06:27 PM
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Black hatch molding
Originally Posted by IWNTA20B
Ahh.. I've done it. You're talking about the outer moulding right? You can get the replacement moulding from the dealer at about $110 I think.
I'm not sure if you want to save it or replace it but if you're saving it, do it when it's warm out to it stays pliable. Remove the bottom piece carefully and just pull it out the moulding carefully.
I'm not sure if you want to save it or replace it but if you're saving it, do it when it's warm out to it stays pliable. Remove the bottom piece carefully and just pull it out the moulding carefully.
Did you use a knife or special tool to reomve the moulding joint (I assume this part is bottom piece you mentioned above - it is approximately a 1 inch black trim piece that secures the molding) and moulding.
How to install new moulding - do you just push molding into exposed channel so molding bottom rubber hook secures to glass edge.
01-17-06, 08:50 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: WEST
Posts: 354
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by gbowers
Hi, thanks for help.
Did you use a knife or special tool to reomve the moulding joint (I assume this part is bottom piece you mentioned above - it is approximately a 1 inch black trim piece that secures the molding) and moulding.
How to install new moulding - do you just push molding into exposed channel so molding bottom rubber hook secures to glass edge.
Did you use a knife or special tool to reomve the moulding joint (I assume this part is bottom piece you mentioned above - it is approximately a 1 inch black trim piece that secures the molding) and moulding.
How to install new moulding - do you just push molding into exposed channel so molding bottom rubber hook secures to glass edge.
02-21-07, 11:07 PM
#6
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacing rubber molding on rear hatch
Originally Posted by IWNTA20B
Use a plastic piece to lift off the bottom piece. It's pushed into the channel so you can pull it but do it gently if you plan on re-using it. It's really easy once you get going. It comes right out. Clean out the channel when it's out
Also, does the seaming welt shown in factory manual need to be replaced also when replacing rubber molding.
Thanks
Trending Topics
02-22-07, 11:25 AM
#8
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Replacing rubber molding on rear hatch
According to shop manual (body.pdf manual, section 14-47), you just remove molding joint located in middle of hatch frame and exterior molding around hatch frame. I can do this with no problem. The molding joint snaps into hatch channel via a rubber clip - this molding joint secures the molding by overlaping molding on both ends.
Questions:
1. If I replace molding and molding joint, do I need to place a bead of repair seal (B001 77 739) or equivalent into same hatch channel to waterproof channel prior to inserting molding.
2. Does seaming welt shown in factory manual need to be replaced also when replacing rubber molding. Is this seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.
Questions:
1. If I replace molding and molding joint, do I need to place a bead of repair seal (B001 77 739) or equivalent into same hatch channel to waterproof channel prior to inserting molding.
2. Does seaming welt shown in factory manual need to be replaced also when replacing rubber molding. Is this seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.
Last edited by gbowers; 02-22-07 at 11:37 AM. Reason: update info
02-22-07, 01:03 PM
#11
OK
If you want to replace that moulding, cut out the glass.
Whoever said that it pops out of the track must have had a nice hit of crack for breakfast because that won't happen without slitting the retating channel off the moulding.
The moulding hooks on the edge of the glass and gets installed with it. The moulding is an "h" shape. The "n" portion of the shape goes around the edge of the glass. The other portion is whats visible from the top.
In short, the only way to PROPERLY change it is to remove the window, install a new moulding (you can buy universal stuff from any glass supplier for about $0.50/foot) and re-install the glass.
If you want to ATTEMPT to do this without removing the glass then try this. Run a utility knife along the mouling flush with the glass and cut the old moulding off. Go to the harware store and purchase a "bananna knife". Its a blade that designed to cut a U shape in old style butyl sealants. Use this to carve the remaining pieces of moulding out the space between the frame and the hatch. After the channel is clear take your new moulding (an h shape) and cut it into a T shape. I.e. cut off the edge which would retain it to the window. Once it is in a T configuration, pump urethane around the channel of the window and then insert the moulding and clean up excess urethane.
The way described is hack and not proper procedure, but hey, it'll work.
If you want to replace that moulding, cut out the glass.
Whoever said that it pops out of the track must have had a nice hit of crack for breakfast because that won't happen without slitting the retating channel off the moulding.
The moulding hooks on the edge of the glass and gets installed with it. The moulding is an "h" shape. The "n" portion of the shape goes around the edge of the glass. The other portion is whats visible from the top.
In short, the only way to PROPERLY change it is to remove the window, install a new moulding (you can buy universal stuff from any glass supplier for about $0.50/foot) and re-install the glass.
If you want to ATTEMPT to do this without removing the glass then try this. Run a utility knife along the mouling flush with the glass and cut the old moulding off. Go to the harware store and purchase a "bananna knife". Its a blade that designed to cut a U shape in old style butyl sealants. Use this to carve the remaining pieces of moulding out the space between the frame and the hatch. After the channel is clear take your new moulding (an h shape) and cut it into a T shape. I.e. cut off the edge which would retain it to the window. Once it is in a T configuration, pump urethane around the channel of the window and then insert the moulding and clean up excess urethane.
The way described is hack and not proper procedure, but hey, it'll work.
02-22-07, 02:01 PM
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by classicauto
OK
If you want to replace that moulding, cut out the glass.
Whoever said that it pops out of the track must have had a nice hit of crack for breakfast because that won't happen without slitting the retating channel off the moulding.
The moulding hooks on the edge of the glass and gets installed with it. The moulding is an "h" shape. The "n" portion of the shape goes around the edge of the glass. The other portion is whats visible from the top.
In short, the only way to PROPERLY change it is to remove the window, install a new moulding (you can buy universal stuff from any glass supplier for about $0.50/foot) and re-install the glass.
If you want to ATTEMPT to do this without removing the glass then try this. Run a utility knife along the mouling flush with the glass and cut the old moulding off. Go to the harware store and purchase a "bananna knife". Its a blade that designed to cut a U shape in old style butyl sealants. Use this to carve the remaining pieces of moulding out the space between the frame and the hatch. After the channel is clear take your new moulding (an h shape) and cut it into a T shape. I.e. cut off the edge which would retain it to the window. Once it is in a T configuration, pump urethane around the channel of the window and then insert the moulding and clean up excess urethane.
The way described is hack and not proper procedure, but hey, it'll work.
If you want to replace that moulding, cut out the glass.
Whoever said that it pops out of the track must have had a nice hit of crack for breakfast because that won't happen without slitting the retating channel off the moulding.
The moulding hooks on the edge of the glass and gets installed with it. The moulding is an "h" shape. The "n" portion of the shape goes around the edge of the glass. The other portion is whats visible from the top.
In short, the only way to PROPERLY change it is to remove the window, install a new moulding (you can buy universal stuff from any glass supplier for about $0.50/foot) and re-install the glass.
If you want to ATTEMPT to do this without removing the glass then try this. Run a utility knife along the mouling flush with the glass and cut the old moulding off. Go to the harware store and purchase a "bananna knife". Its a blade that designed to cut a U shape in old style butyl sealants. Use this to carve the remaining pieces of moulding out the space between the frame and the hatch. After the channel is clear take your new moulding (an h shape) and cut it into a T shape. I.e. cut off the edge which would retain it to the window. Once it is in a T configuration, pump urethane around the channel of the window and then insert the moulding and clean up excess urethane.
The way described is hack and not proper procedure, but hey, it'll work.
According to body shop manual, you can replace molding without removing glass. In fact, I am able to remove entire molding intact with h-shape configuration just by pulling it up and away from hatch channel. To replace new molding per shop manual, you just insert and push molding into molding channel between glass and hatch frame (with the h-shape molding configuration wrapped around glass) and seal with molding joint.
Question: Per attached hatch diagram, is seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.
Last edited by gbowers; 01-10-21 at 02:14 PM.
02-22-07, 02:25 PM
#13
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Kansas City, MO
Posts: 162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Question: Per attached hatch diagram, is seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.
Last edited by gbowers; 01-10-21 at 02:14 PM.
03-01-07, 12:42 PM
#14
Originally Posted by gbowers
Question: Per attached hatch diagram, is seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.
But to be honest, I don't care what your shop manual says....the *proper* way to do it is pull the window and re-install with a new moulding. I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm just telling you what being in the body shop and glass replacement business for a decade (personally...our shops been around since 1977) has taught me.
You could pull it out as I said, but you'll run into trouble reinstalling it becauase the bead of urethane will not allow the bottom of the "h" to go completely under the glass. Which is why you need to cut it to do it right. The only way around this, as I mentioned, is to trim the "h" into more of a "T and simply caulk the groove and push the T straight down in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MILOS7
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
10
08-19-15 07:25 AM