How replace rear hatch molding
 

Anyone know how to replace rear hatch black molding between glass and black metal frame on FC?

Ahh.. I've done it. You're talking about the outer moulding right? You can get the replacement moulding from the dealer at about $110 I think.
I'm not sure if you want to save it or replace it but if you're saving it, do it when it's warm out to it stays pliable. Remove the bottom piece carefully and just pull it out the moulding carefully.

Maybe you might what to check the for sale section, hatches go alot cheaper than $110.

Black hatch molding
 

Hi, thanks for help.

Did you use a knife or special tool to reomve the moulding joint (I assume this part is bottom piece you mentioned above - it is approximately a 1 inch black trim piece that secures the molding) and moulding.

How to install new moulding - do you just push molding into exposed channel so molding bottom rubber hook secures to glass edge.

Use a plastic piece to lift off the bottom piece. It's pushed into the channel so you can pull it but do it gently if you plan on re-using it. It's really easy once you get going. It comes right out. Clean out the channel when it's out

Replacing rubber molding on rear hatch
 

Hi, after you cleaned out channel between glass and hatch perimeter, did you insert any sealer or caulk into this channel prior to replacing new rubber molding.

Also, does the seaming welt shown in factory manual need to be replaced also when replacing rubber molding.

Thanks

Do a write up to help others ... aka like me :P

Replacing rubber molding on rear hatch
 

According to shop manual (body.pdf manual, section 14-47), you just remove molding joint located in middle of hatch frame and exterior molding around hatch frame. I can do this with no problem. The molding joint snaps into hatch channel via a rubber clip - this molding joint secures the molding by overlaping molding on both ends.

Questions:

1. If I replace molding and molding joint, do I need to place a bead of repair seal (B001 77 739) or equivalent into same hatch channel to waterproof channel prior to inserting molding.

2. Does seaming welt shown in factory manual need to be replaced also when replacing rubber molding. Is this seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.

Please see attached shop manual picture of rear hatch.

Anyone please help.

OK

If you want to replace that moulding, cut out the glass.

Whoever said that it pops out of the track must have had a nice hit of crack for breakfast because that won't happen without slitting the retating channel off the moulding.

The moulding hooks on the edge of the glass and gets installed with it. The moulding is an "h" shape. The "n" portion of the shape goes around the edge of the glass. The other portion is whats visible from the top.


In short, the only way to PROPERLY change it is to remove the window, install a new moulding (you can buy universal stuff from any glass supplier for about $0.50/foot) and re-install the glass.

If you want to ATTEMPT to do this without removing the glass then try this. Run a utility knife along the mouling flush with the glass and cut the old moulding off. Go to the harware store and purchase a "bananna knife". Its a blade that designed to cut a U shape in old style butyl sealants. Use this to carve the remaining pieces of moulding out the space between the frame and the hatch. After the channel is clear take your new moulding (an h shape) and cut it into a T shape. I.e. cut off the edge which would retain it to the window. Once it is in a T configuration, pump urethane around the channel of the window and then insert the moulding and clean up excess urethane.

The way described is hack and not proper procedure, but hey, it'll work.

Thanks for help.

According to body shop manual, you can replace molding without removing glass. In fact, I am able to remove entire molding intact with h-shape configuration just by pulling it up and away from hatch channel. To replace new molding per shop manual, you just insert and push molding into molding channel between glass and hatch frame (with the h-shape molding configuration wrapped around glass) and seal with molding joint.

Question: Per attached hatch diagram, is seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.

Question: Per attached hatch diagram, is seaming welt located on backside of glass and hatch frame.

Not quite sure what you're saying here. But if you're asking whether or not the glass is attached to the frame on a pinchweld, then yes, it is.


But to be honest, I don't care what your shop manual says....the *proper* way to do it is pull the window and re-install with a new moulding. I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm just telling you what being in the body shop and glass replacement business for a decade (personally...our shops been around since 1977) has taught me.

You could pull it out as I said, but you'll run into trouble reinstalling it becauase the bead of urethane will not allow the bottom of the "h" to go completely under the glass. Which is why you need to cut it to do it right. The only way around this, as I mentioned, is to trim the "h" into more of a "T and simply caulk the groove and push the T straight down in.