How to remove CAS?
How to remove CAS?
I would like to pull the Cas out to ensure it is set to the correct timing (i don't have a light) which bolts do i need to remove to pull it out? i've tried sifting throught the FSM and searching with no good results
You might find a plastic anti tamper thing on the nut. Just break that off.
It is a 10MM nut. Might need an extension if you have PS and AC.
However, the tricky part is getting it back in. Follow the FSM directions for install. However, it is best to take the small screws out of the CAS and observe the internals as you slide it into the block.
The problem is that you lined up the CAS gear correctly with the CAS body but as you side it into the block this moves. And with the top plate off you can observe it.
Oh, and if you pull it out. You should go buy a timing light. You will need to retime your car. Besides the thing is like 15 for a cheap one. Maybe walmart has one. Heck, maybe Autozone has one with the Rent a Tool program.
James
It is a 10MM nut. Might need an extension if you have PS and AC.
However, the tricky part is getting it back in. Follow the FSM directions for install. However, it is best to take the small screws out of the CAS and observe the internals as you slide it into the block.
The problem is that you lined up the CAS gear correctly with the CAS body but as you side it into the block this moves. And with the top plate off you can observe it.
Oh, and if you pull it out. You should go buy a timing light. You will need to retime your car. Besides the thing is like 15 for a cheap one. Maybe walmart has one. Heck, maybe Autozone has one with the Rent a Tool program.
James
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is this the instructions you are reffering too?
http://www.strike9.com/file.aspx?pat...e/untitled.jpg
http://www.strike9.com/file.aspx?pat...e/untitled.jpg
Listen to what Wankel7 said about the internals moving while you re-stab the cas. Important.
The book only gets you in the ballpark. If done like Wankel7 described you'l get it within five degrees or so, but you do NEED to finish the timing off with a timing light. If the car is running fairly good right now, don't pull the cas, please. Buy a timing light to set the timing spot on. I'm serious. If it runs.....don't pull the cas except to gain some experience...which is good in itself.
Using a timing light is easy. You connect the light as described in the instructions that come with the type light you buy, idle the engine under 1000 rpm (idle should be 750 though), point the timing light at the front pulley and with the light engaged, note the relationship of the first hash mark on the pulley in relation to the fixed pointer. IF the fixed pointer does not align with the first hash mark, then slowly rotate the cas until the two align. Then clamp the cas bolt/nut down. Done.
Yeah, I left out installing the initial set coupler. Oh well, just a brief description til I go make more license plates at the big factory. Done with my finger exercise.
The book only gets you in the ballpark. If done like Wankel7 described you'l get it within five degrees or so, but you do NEED to finish the timing off with a timing light. If the car is running fairly good right now, don't pull the cas, please. Buy a timing light to set the timing spot on. I'm serious. If it runs.....don't pull the cas except to gain some experience...which is good in itself.
Using a timing light is easy. You connect the light as described in the instructions that come with the type light you buy, idle the engine under 1000 rpm (idle should be 750 though), point the timing light at the front pulley and with the light engaged, note the relationship of the first hash mark on the pulley in relation to the fixed pointer. IF the fixed pointer does not align with the first hash mark, then slowly rotate the cas until the two align. Then clamp the cas bolt/nut down. Done.
Yeah, I left out installing the initial set coupler. Oh well, just a brief description til I go make more license plates at the big factory. Done with my finger exercise.
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