How-To: Rebuild Your Door Lock Switches (S5)
08-17-05, 07:43 PM
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Rockn' The Galant
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How-To: Rebuild Your Door Lock Switches (S5)
FIRST OFF, I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR WHAT YOU DO TO YOUR CAR, THIS IS HOW I FIXED MY DOOR LOCKS AND I HOPE YOU FIX YOURS, BUT IF YOU BREAK STUFF PLEASE DONT SUE ME! 
With that being said, let's proceed!
STEP ONE
Take all nine bolts & Phillips head screws out, make sure to put them in a place where you don't loose them because YOU WILL LOOSE THEM!
After you get them all out you'll want to take the plastic piece off behind the door handle, pull the door handle as far as you can and slide it out.
Then gently pull on the door in each section as it does have locking screws that 'pop' when you take them out of the hole or push them in, I think there was about 12 of them total but that's probably wrong.
When the door panel is off, there will be two connectors holding it on, simply disconnect them and put the door panel off to the side.
STEP TWO
Undo both of these screws, make sure and note their sizes, the longer one goes into the top hole, don’t remove any more screws there.
STEP THREE
Disconnect this connector and slide it through the water guard and your lock switch will be able to be lifted out of the car, which is highly recommended when working on a rocky concrete driveway that camouflages every screw you drop, don't ask me how I know!
STEP FOUR
Un-do this little screw and take the metal tab off the two springs, watch out, there may be life left in them and they could spring across the room.
STEP FIVE
My dad recommended bending the springs out some, which ironically worked, so bend the spring out just a little bit enough where it's still straight but puts more pressure on that tab (because it slides and makes contact to tell the actuators to move up or down, you'll see when you take the circuit board off).
Re-installation is the reverse.
This is also a well how-to take off your door panel, note I don't have any subwoofers in the doors because they didn't work and I needed rear speakers any ways so go me!
Thanks, if you've got any questions let me know!
- Tech
With that being said, let's proceed!
STEP ONE
Take all nine bolts & Phillips head screws out, make sure to put them in a place where you don't loose them because YOU WILL LOOSE THEM!
After you get them all out you'll want to take the plastic piece off behind the door handle, pull the door handle as far as you can and slide it out.
Then gently pull on the door in each section as it does have locking screws that 'pop' when you take them out of the hole or push them in, I think there was about 12 of them total but that's probably wrong.
When the door panel is off, there will be two connectors holding it on, simply disconnect them and put the door panel off to the side.
STEP TWO
Undo both of these screws, make sure and note their sizes, the longer one goes into the top hole, don’t remove any more screws there.
STEP THREE
Disconnect this connector and slide it through the water guard and your lock switch will be able to be lifted out of the car, which is highly recommended when working on a rocky concrete driveway that camouflages every screw you drop, don't ask me how I know!
STEP FOUR
Un-do this little screw and take the metal tab off the two springs, watch out, there may be life left in them and they could spring across the room.
STEP FIVE
My dad recommended bending the springs out some, which ironically worked, so bend the spring out just a little bit enough where it's still straight but puts more pressure on that tab (because it slides and makes contact to tell the actuators to move up or down, you'll see when you take the circuit board off).
Re-installation is the reverse.
This is also a well how-to take off your door panel, note I don't have any subwoofers in the doors because they didn't work and I needed rear speakers any ways so go me!
Thanks, if you've got any questions let me know!
- Tech
Last edited by Tech_Greek; 08-17-05 at 07:54 PM.
08-17-05, 08:00 PM
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Nice pictures. Would you care to explain exactly what you were trying to fix? Could the locks be moved without the electrical connections being made, so adjusting the springs made the contacts more solid? (Just trying to guess here...)
08-17-05, 08:02 PM
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Rockn' The Galant
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Yes, the springs had flattened out basically so I had to push in on the lock and it only worked 1/4th of the time and it wouldnt make the lock go down all the way.
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08-25-05, 09:29 PM
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Rockn' The Galant
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That is EXACTLY what this will fix, this why I did it in the first place, I got tired of having to open my girlfriends door for her so I fixed that! 
08-26-05, 04:31 AM
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Great description and pictures! Just one suggestion, if I may be so bold, should have gone to hardware store and spent 28 cents on new compression springs with a little, little, more resistance. Not knocking you at all, just an addition. Thanks for the pictures.
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