I purchased and installed the gpop kit. Turbo has even more free play then before, smokes a ton all the time. Wtf. I'm honestly going to take all the gpop parts of and just re use the old ones since they didn't smoke. Any ideas what happen?

 

did you check the turbine shaft journals? did you bead blast the CHRA journals? those are 2 things that will cause a sloppy turbo.

 

I just picked up the exact same Turbo that rotaryrocket used in this write up.

When I order my rebuild kit and i want the 360 thrust bearing? Do I order it for the encapsulated carbon seal that the stock turbo comes with or do I order it for the dynamic seal that the hybrid turbo will be running?

Or does it matter?

http://gpopshop.com/products-page/re...e-rebuild-kit/

https://gpopshop.com/products-page/a...asic-t3-kit-2/

 

Can I sandblast or bead blast the CHRA?
Mine looks pretty gross.

Other option would be to soak it in purple power since it's just the CHRA.

 

This thread was helpful when I rebuilt an S5 turbo. It was smoking profusely before and basically stopped after the rebuild (just burning off assembly oil). It was a little stiff at first. Gave it one heat cycle which loosened it up and now spins freely. Or freer than before. I assume it's broken in now.

I ordered a G-pop shop kit G-Pop Shop :: Hitachi HT18 Complete Rebuild Kit | and had a bunch of parts left over. The cost is a little over $100 after shipping but you only end up using like 40 or 50 bucks worth. I don't need the bolts or the hold down clamps which don't fit our turbos anyway. Is there a cheaper alternative where you get only the parts you need?

This is all i used from their kit:
#1 Journal Bearings
#2 Retaining Rings for Journal Bearings
#4 Thrust Bearing (270°)
#5 Thrust Collar
#6 1pc Carbon Seal
#7 Seal Ring for Bearing Housing
#8 Thrust Spring for Backing Plate

I reused my #9 Thrust Spacer because theirs was machined too short, and I had to reuse my #3 Piston Ring Seal because theirs was smaller in each dimension (more likely to smoke) and also got bent as I tried to install the shaft back in the CHRA (applied too much force I suspect). The old one popped back in perfectly and didn't smoke at all during the heat cycle test.

It seems like there are some T3/T4 universal kits out there that might work but they don't contain the 1 piece encapsulated carbon seal or the #5 Thrust Collar. I'm also not sure the 270° bearing in those kits is the same as the G-pop shop version or will work right with their thrust collar and/or our CHRAs. Does anyone know?

I sent G-pop an email asking for a minimal kit for our Hitachi HT-18s and the response was yes they could do it, but the cost from the manufacturer would actually be higher than the full kit.

Just trying to save a couple bucks. I've got two S5 turbos here for a rebuild. Any help?

 

You can just order the "basic t3" rebuild kit an it's $49.
That's what I used to rebuild my stock turbo and just came with what I needed.

 

you can bead blast the CHRA but do not bead blast the bearing or turbine shaft seal areas. you must also be very thorough in cleaning out any debris that gets into the oiling areas.

the CHRA is a soft iron material and blasting the bearing areas results in the bearings being very loose afterwards, basically it destroys the CHRA if you aren't careful. i put rubber plugs in the shaft holes and blast the rest, soak it in degreaser, then rinse off with water, blow off with compressed air, brake clean the whole CHRA and blow it off thoroughly again while focusing on the inner passages.

clean carbon buildup off the turbine seal journal with a rag and brake cleaner.

soda blasting would be a better alternative, if you can set up your machine for it.

 

I only used degreaser and water to clean my CHRA. Well, some careful wire brush scrubbing to get the carbon/coking off first. I was very careful around the piston seal area.

Thanks MrGoodnight. Is it a problem that the basic T3 kit doesn't contain #5 and #8?

 

you can use many methods, like wire wheel the turbine seal cap area and then drop it in a carb dip bucket works as well. i worked on the blasting techniques because rusty surfaces just don't look good on a rebuilt part.

no matter how well i tried to clean them by hand there was always pockets with rust in them.

 

Ben, which rebuild kits do you normally use?

 

so not to jack the thread but i was just curious if this is a viable or crazy idea I was wanting to make an s4 hybrid turbo using the following parts:
GT3582r compressor wheel
ATP's T04b compact housing that's designed for the GT3582
and they're adapter backplate for the t04b gt3582 combo
and of course a 360 degree thrust bearing kit
so am i nuts? Lol

 

yes you are nuts haha, the exhaust side will be nowhere near capable of keeping up with that compressor

Purchase a exhaust manifold and a turbo if you are looking to use any parts like that.

 

okay thank you lol back to plan A( complete gt35r)

 

i get them from a local turbo shop a few blocks up. i haven't asked what his supplier is, if he would even tell me.

if i were to order them myself i would probably just go through gpopshop.


and a GT35 compressor likely wouldn't fit onto the T4 shaft anyways, not to mention it would be a wasted effort. as mentioned the tiny turbine wheel wouldn't come close to allowing the large compressor wheel to do its job efficiently, the lag would be horrible. it might work but for the price you'd pay there are better ways to build a hybrid.

 

Just got my hybrid all together and I am at a lost for 1 gasket. Does anyone have the part number or a link to get the gasket for the s4 turbo plate that directs flow from the waste gate? I have the 3 bolt down pipe gasket but I need the one that bolts between the plate on the exhaust exit side that is a 5 bolt flange that the plate bolts to then the down pipe bolts onto that. Like I said I have the dp 3 bolt flange gasket and the manifold to turbo gasket... I just can't for the life of me find this other gasket in any form of search.

 

There is no gasket there.

 

Sweet, that's what I was thinking but I didn't take it completely apart before sending it to bnr so I wasn't sure if there was one to begin with. Thanks for the help I can continue on now with the restoration.

 

Sorry for the thread revival, but some leftover/unused parts post-rebuild are making me confused. After reading through, I only now realized that I forgot to replace the piston ring, put threadlocker on the compressor nut, and rebalance the rotating assembly, so I'll have to go back and crack open the turbo (again).

So, regarding the "soft" seals included in the complete HT18 kit. I know that there is supposed to be one o-ring with a square profile that sits in a groove in the CHRA around the thrust bearing, which I replaced. The blue, paper-ish flat seal I stuck between the compressor backing plate and the compressor housing since that's the only place it would fit. Which leaves me with the large o-ring with a round cross-section that's about the same diameter of the blue seal. Where does this go? I didn't see anything remotely close to one that size on initial disassembly. Is this just an extra piece that's useless for us RX7 owners? I couldn't figure out, from both the included instructions and this write up, where it should go.

To clarify, this is for the G-Pop HT18 rebuild kit with an S4 turbo.

 

maybe its the rubber seal between the comp backplate and the center cartridge?

 

lack of oil ?

 

I know it's an old thread but does anyone have to bore out the 4 bolt holes that connect the CHRA to the compressor backplate?

 

shouldn't have to, but i guess it depends on how poor the chinese quality is...

 

Really great thread! If I go the route of getting a to4e compressor housing, wheel and back plate how do I know which ones to order? Are they (housing,bplate, and wheel) all interchangeable with our turbo so long as those three parts I order match each other?? I definitely want to build one myself as opposed to utilizing BNR's services but am worried I will order the wrong part(s).

 

If you are worried about ordering the wrong parts, you should probably just get a professional to do it. BNR has been doing quality work for YEARS and knows what he is doing.

If you searched around, there are many more threads about DIY hybrid turbo setups. Just use the search and you should find it.

You will need to get the turbo professionally balanced no matter what you do on your own, so if you are not comfortable knowing what parts to get, just send it out. You will probably spend about $300-400 on your own, or send it in and get a full professional hybrid done for $925.

 

if this hybrid is going on the stock manifold you need a T04B compressor housing..T04E are larger in diameter and you will have interference problems on the lower intake