How much pressure is in the MOP lines??
02-13-05, 01:36 AM
#1
Carter 2.0
Thread Starter
How much pressure is in the MOP lines??
Can I replace the broken brittle line with a new one?? I have hose that fits really snug. I have one broken MOP line and I would like to use this line as a replacement. BUT is there a lot of pressure in there??? If not I really don't have to clamp it.
02-13-05, 02:14 AM
#2
pressure? none. just a drip............drip...............drip....depende nt on throttle position. I've had success supergluing a broken line back together, if the break was clean and both parts are still together. Dont try to use vacuum hose or such...it expands when contacted by oil and will leak.
02-13-05, 02:43 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
I have vinyl tubing. You know what I used??? I grabbed the little colars that go on coax cable. The ones you use when your making your own cable for your tv. I slid the colars on and crimped them onto the ends of the tubing. Stong like bull. looks good as well
What do you think about Vinyl. Sure the hell beats $28 bucks per tube from Mazda!
What do you think about Vinyl. Sure the hell beats $28 bucks per tube from Mazda!
02-13-05, 08:02 AM
#5
HAILERS
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Buy, for approx 89 cents per foot, some FUEL line for small engines (lawnmowers, weedwhackers etc). It's 3/16 OD and 3/32 ID. It can be bought at a local hardware store.
Take the line off. With a pair of pliers squeeze the clamp that is on each fitting and either pull the old line off or cut it off, leaving the original clamp undamaged. Shove the new line on the fitting. It will be a touch tight but if you insert a small phillips screwdriver into the opening and manipulate it, it will be easier to slip the new line on.
Then, having slipped the old clamp on before putting the line on, clamp each ear on the clamp and it will clamp like new and not leak.
I've two cars done like this for at least two years. There is no leakage. And just yesterday I did it on turboii engine I'm rebuilding. Eighty nine cents per foot times six feet and you'll have leftover tubing.
When through, route it like the old lines and if you want, put extra zip ties on the bundle to make it more rigid. And or put some heatshrink over each tube for chaffing purposes. I don't. Isn't needed.
And I've NEVER understood why anyone would install stainless steel lines. Mind boggeling. Zip pressure in those lines.
If you destroy the original clamps, just twist some copper wire around the connection, much like safteywiring something. Copper wire like you find in a piece of electrical wire. Just strip the insulation off the electrical wire. Twist and clip the excess.
Take the line off. With a pair of pliers squeeze the clamp that is on each fitting and either pull the old line off or cut it off, leaving the original clamp undamaged. Shove the new line on the fitting. It will be a touch tight but if you insert a small phillips screwdriver into the opening and manipulate it, it will be easier to slip the new line on.
Then, having slipped the old clamp on before putting the line on, clamp each ear on the clamp and it will clamp like new and not leak.
I've two cars done like this for at least two years. There is no leakage. And just yesterday I did it on turboii engine I'm rebuilding. Eighty nine cents per foot times six feet and you'll have leftover tubing.
When through, route it like the old lines and if you want, put extra zip ties on the bundle to make it more rigid. And or put some heatshrink over each tube for chaffing purposes. I don't. Isn't needed.
And I've NEVER understood why anyone would install stainless steel lines. Mind boggeling. Zip pressure in those lines.
If you destroy the original clamps, just twist some copper wire around the connection, much like safteywiring something. Copper wire like you find in a piece of electrical wire. Just strip the insulation off the electrical wire. Twist and clip the excess.
02-13-05, 09:43 AM
#7
Koala Bear
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When working on my car, my OMP lines broke. So, my dad ordered some teflon tubing and those clamps on banjo fitting. He did a write up:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/rebuilding-omp-oil-injection-lines-348068/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/rebuilding-omp-oil-injection-lines-348068/
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02-13-05, 09:56 AM
#8
HAILERS
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Originally Posted by MRX_Rotary
When working on my car, my OMP lines broke. So, my dad ordered some teflon tubing and those clamps on banjo fitting. He did a write up:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=348068
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=348068
02-13-05, 10:57 AM
#9
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there is only vacume in them. manifold vacume is what actualy "sucks" the oil through the lines. the mop jsut determines how much to let out. the only issue then is the heat of being right on top of the block.
02-13-05, 12:00 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
Buy, for approx 89 cents per foot, some FUEL line for small engines (lawnmowers, weedwhackers etc). It's 3/16 OD and 3/32 ID. It can be bought at a local hardware store.
Take the line off. With a pair of pliers squeeze the clamp that is on each fitting and either pull the old line off or cut it off, leaving the original clamp undamaged. Shove the new line on the fitting. It will be a touch tight but if you insert a small phillips screwdriver into the opening and manipulate it, it will be easier to slip the new line on.
Then, having slipped the old clamp on before putting the line on, clamp each ear on the clamp and it will clamp like new and not leak.
I've two cars done like this for at least two years. There is no leakage. And just yesterday I did it on turboii engine I'm rebuilding. Eighty nine cents per foot times six feet and you'll have leftover tubing.
When through, route it like the old lines and if you want, put extra zip ties on the bundle to make it more rigid. And or put some heatshrink over each tube for chaffing purposes. I don't. Isn't needed.
And I've NEVER understood why anyone would install stainless steel lines. Mind boggeling. Zip pressure in those lines.
If you destroy the original clamps, just twist some copper wire around the connection, much like safteywiring something. Copper wire like you find in a piece of electrical wire. Just strip the insulation off the electrical wire. Twist and clip the excess.
Take the line off. With a pair of pliers squeeze the clamp that is on each fitting and either pull the old line off or cut it off, leaving the original clamp undamaged. Shove the new line on the fitting. It will be a touch tight but if you insert a small phillips screwdriver into the opening and manipulate it, it will be easier to slip the new line on.
Then, having slipped the old clamp on before putting the line on, clamp each ear on the clamp and it will clamp like new and not leak.
I've two cars done like this for at least two years. There is no leakage. And just yesterday I did it on turboii engine I'm rebuilding. Eighty nine cents per foot times six feet and you'll have leftover tubing.
When through, route it like the old lines and if you want, put extra zip ties on the bundle to make it more rigid. And or put some heatshrink over each tube for chaffing purposes. I don't. Isn't needed.
And I've NEVER understood why anyone would install stainless steel lines. Mind boggeling. Zip pressure in those lines.
If you destroy the original clamps, just twist some copper wire around the connection, much like safteywiring something. Copper wire like you find in a piece of electrical wire. Just strip the insulation off the electrical wire. Twist and clip the excess.
i like that! its simple
02-13-05, 12:58 PM
#11
Carter 2.0
Thread Starter
None of this comes up when you search for "MOP/OMP line repair" or varitaions of this. There should be a thread in the archives entitled MOP/OMP oil line repair. Would have saved me a lot of time trying to construct something on my own.
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