i was wondering how much it would cost me to get into the 13 with a 88 T II? what about the twevles?

 

is it only going to race or do you want to maintain drivability?
custom 4" exhaust with dyno max bullet mufflers no cat less install = $400 from Summit racing
twin torbo = $2000+
standalone managment =$1000+
front mount bad *** intercooler $1500
Nos =$500 - 1500
ignition = $500
drag susspension less install = $ 1000
port job = $ 500 -2000 depending where and amount of prep you do
5.25 clutch kit = $ 1200 - 2300 depending on what and where
LSD = $ $750
high output injectors = $150 each
fuel pump and regulator = $500


I can keep going. These are only aproximates

 

all that for 13's? yes it will still have to be streetable.

 

I may have over shot abit...
That might put you in the 11s

 

you could hit 13's with full exhaust, intake, boost controller, bigger injectors, fuel pump, fuel cut defencer, and a tuned S-AFC. bigger IC would help.

probably be running 12-14psi. not going to last too long on a stock engine and turbo.

 

Whoah there! It doesn't cost that much to get a TII into the 13s. And he doesn't want twin turbos, trust me.

I'm no expert, but 13s should be attainable with an intake, exhaust, FCD, and a little extra fuel with a piggyback wouldn't hurt. You'll hear conflicting stories on FCDs, but as long as you're careful, they serve their purpose.

But, if you are going to heavily modify your car (read bigger turbo and FMIC), then you will want stand alone EMS. And if you absolutely know that you're eventually going to need an EMS, I'd make it the first mod, or pretty close to first. Yes, you will have to retune it after every major mod, but the benefits will be worth it.

 

its a little harder than you think. Im still just barely getting there. Once I get my slicks I will be around mid 13.
that is with stage 2 street port, intake, downpipe, race pipe, catback, light flywheel, Racing clutch, walbro fuel pump, apexi S-AFC, Greddy Profec A, and some other little stuff. When you start racing stuff gets expensive. And the reliability goes way down.

 

Tweaked that's a little much...this should work for you.

Exhaust: Personally I would go with something proven. RB full 3 inch turbo back with presilencer. Clean, conservative and it gets the job done. $750

Fuel: 720cc injectors and bigger fuel pump (FD, Cosmo, Supra)...Your going to want to get something like the Apexi Super AFC to maintain proper fuel mixture. From what I've heard you would use the AFC to dial down the injectors. $800

Intake: K&N Cone Filter with an adaptor. $100

People hate to read or see this but you will need an FCD to make this work. It has its shortfalls but it's worked for me.

This should get you close or into the 13s. If you want to get into the 12s I would say a good turbo T04S, Spearco Intercooler and a Haltech. Throw in a lightened RB flywheel and an ACT clutch.

Prices are dependent on you shopping but they are approximate

One thing to add...a plus to all of this would be if you used an 89-91 turbo and intake to get you into the 13s.

 

Just start with the basics
to start: go to the track on test and tune night, make a few runs to get a baseline
I always beguin by adding lightness. ie take off everything that addes weight. like the a/c plastic planels, that stuff

I always go for synthetic off the bat

go for the exhaust first the bigger the better on tubos. they don't rely on backpressre like the n/as do

fuel cut, very cheap

intake, ignition. MSD 6AL is $175 from Summit, but the Jacobs is better

fuel pump and regulator is a must so you don't runn lean

Just do it a little at a time with the mods you can afford, and after you make a big change go back to the track to see what else you need to do.

I think I should mention, I don't have a turbo any more. I went with the n/a for a challenge.. and my tubo popped. too lean
But in my defense, I was about 5 years younger and 100 IQ points dumber

 

Jef had intake, clutch, 300 pounds weight reduction, and Nitto drag tires, and he was consistently under 14.1 with a best of 13.6 @ 98. The tires changed the 60' from a 2.3 to a 1.9.

 

NA's dont need back pressure if you wire the ports open
13's shouldnt cost too much. Pay attention here and you'll quickly learn what you need to do. If i wasnt being cheap right now my T2 engine and tranny would be being over hauled. Then again when I do it I want to hunt Vipers ..... I gotta go back for that diff and axles

 

do i need a special pump or reg or could use one out of summit? are the pumps inline or intank? what psi should the fuel be for a 88 t2? what about an 89 t2?

 

i pulled 13.5@105 at sac raceway w/lots of wheelspin!!!

 

tweaked severely overshot that list.

if you can drive worth a ****, this should get you 13's: intake, TID, full exhaust, FCD, 255 fuel pump, boost controller, and some decent tires. with that you should have a pretty solid 13 second car. my old 87 TII with nothing but an intake, DP, MP, and fuel pump went 14.4@100mph. that was with a SHITTY 2.6 second 60ft. i had a broken diffmount and stock suspension too.

DRs will seriously help out your 60ft. a lot of people overlook traction and end up with a car that runs like 13.8 @175mph, with some godawful 60ft.

also some larger secondaries are nice, not a neccesity for a 13second car, but i would do it anyway for safety.

 

full exhaust, intake, FCD, and a fuel pump rewire... i would think that would get you there. just make sure you have a good A/F guage. i think with just the rewired fuel pump you'd be fine, though a bigger one wouldnt hurt.

it took the Supra intake, full exhaust, and boost controller for a 13 second pass... gotta love 12psi... now its time for the expensive mods, GRR!! I/C, Turbo, Fuel, etc...

 

well i dont know everything about modding TII, far from it. but i do know that me and my buddy got his 89 TII down to 13.41 with no cats (downpipe and straightpipe), decend rb mufflers and intake, better fuel pump and a 100 shot of nos in a wet system.

 

with just RB full exhaust and an fcd i hit 14.2. 14.2=$813 to my door

with some nitto's 13's would be easily obtainable for about $100 a piece.

so in my case anyways, 13's are there for barely over $1k on a very streetable car.

 

it takes **** to get into the 13's....

I ran a 14.5 with on street tires with intake, midpipe...

All I plan on doing is getting my downpipe and catback, port the wastegate and have a boost controller running 10 psi.

The stock fuel system can easily handle 10 psi, im running rich right now even when I creep up to 10psi.....

I figure with finishing my exhaust, port, and boost controller to 10 psi, I should easily hit 13.6-13.9 on street tires.....




------------------------------
89 GTX
Bonez Intake
Bonez Midpipe
Super AFC
FCD
Greddy Turbo Timer
Dual Guage A piller
Boost Gauge
Air/Fuel Guage

 

I paid $7500 cdn for my T2.
I think it can run 13's although I never dragged it.
Heres what I got
Street Ported Engine
Greddy Front Mount Intercooler
Greddy BOV
Upgraded Turbo at 15psi
3 inch straight pipe
Apex N1 Single Exhaust
Short Shifter
HKS Intake (I think)

Other goodies:
Momo Steering Wheel
Razo Shift **** and racing pedals
HKS Turbo Timer (Problems)
Tokico Shocks with coilovers
16 inch Momo Rims
HKS valve controller (Doesn't work)
Clifford Alarm (Works sometimes, sorta strange)
3rd Gen Bose Speakers

This winter I'm getting Extra Fuel Injectors, A/F monitor and some Body Work.