Update.
I checked both FSM's
Pin 1R is an input signal for both the power steering and knock sensor.

Now, I never removed this and I've been daily driving for over 3 years. I stillrecommend to remove this wire. I may be removing it in my car very soon to see of there is any difference.

 

I know im about 3 months behind but my turbo harness is dead its missing stuff, connectors are melted its real bad. So about this i have heard that above like 3000 rpms the knock sensor does not even serve a purpose because of engine vibration, is that true? and wtfdidusay i believe it retards timing. Just wondering cause i konw the knock sensor is a safety device that i would like to keep but if it doesnt work above 3000rpm then it pretty much is useless.

 

Man Im confused....Which wire is pin 1R...What color?

 

One R is in the large plug attached to the ECU.

iF you look at and read the FSM FUEL SECTION, you'll readily see how to read the pinouts on the plugs. You look at the WIRE side of the plug. You count from right to left in a up/down fashion. Like 1A is all the way to the right on the top row. 1B is just below 1A. Work your way from right to left in the up/down fashion and you'll find 1R.

The color of the wire is shown in the free online series four FSM.

The Fuel section for turbo and non turbo show the function of each wire attached to the ECU and what they do in life. Just copy the three pages for the turbo engine and then copy the pages for the non turbo engine. Compare them side by side. The differences are minimal. Then use common sense to figure out what needs to be done.

 

did anyone decide what to do about that 1R wire yet?
so what about the vert ecu (N338) is that the same as a TII or an NA?

 

Pin 1R (LG/B wire) is the knock control unit on Turbos and the power steering pressure switch on NA's. If you're installing the Turbo knock control unit you'll need to cut the wire ~6" from the ECU connector and extend the connector side to where you've installed the knock control unit (which also needs power and ground connections). If you're not installing the knock control unit and you have power steering you'll need to cut the wire anyway, otherwise every time you turned the wheel the ECU would get what it thinks is a knock signal and retard the ignition timing.

 

awesome, no knock control = cut the damn wire.

thats what i needed to hear...

although, whats up with the 338 vert ecu? is that considered NA? i thought i read somewhere some1 told me it could run a turbo'd motor...

 

awesome...thanks hailers

 

Personally I'd depin it and tie it onto the harness. No cut. Depin it from the plug. That said, 1R on a Turbo ECU is a INPUT to the ECU from the knock sensor of 3-5vdc. And 1R on a non turbo is a gnd input on the non turbo ECU.

I don't see that being a pwr steering problem. ON the non turbo ECU that gnd signal was to let the ECU know your turning the wheel and up the rpms to counter the load. Using a Turbo ECU won't accomplish that. It's geared different.

I left 1R in place because I have no pwr steering so no harm could be done by.....doing nothing to it.

Depin that wire is the best option. Unless your using the knock sensor (useless in my humble opinion, been there done that and undid it).

 

so is the knock sensor what retards the timing or does it do nothing??? cuz i would need that for my plans of turboing my 6 port if thats the case, unless i can do it through tuning with my rtek 2.x or even manually if thats possible?? I heard when turboing the 6port you need to time it like a couple degrees back or something for it to run safely any help would be appreciated... plan on running atleast 300hp...have all fuel upgrades, koyo and electric fan, rebuilt and ported motor and ecu and rtek tuning for fuel and timing, but do i need the knock sensor to tune the timing??

 

knock sensor is pointless. I've been running 2 years without it.

Your tuning will be 1000 times more crucial than that crap box.

The box tells the ecu to retard timing more than you have mapped when it notices a knock. Although if you knock. You didn't tune too well.

 

Buy a aftermarket KNOCK box. Search for J-RAT and KNOCK SENSOR and see what he uses.

I believe it is RETED who says the stock Knock box is only used under low load???? low boost?????? Search.

I'll sell you my knock box for ??? oh, let's let it go cheap. $200.00 bucks? I need Christmas money.

I run a six port Turbo and no knock box. But only 9-10 psi also. Still gets me there and back.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=KNOCK

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=KNOCK

 

This thread should be archive material....

 

On a non turbo, the 1R gets a ground from the switch shown in the attached jpg, IF you have power steering. If you don't have power steering, then no signal will go to the 1R unless you reroute the wire for 1R to the Knock control unit and also have the wire to the knock sensor up and working.

Just thought I'd run this thread into the dirt.

Notice the attached jpg comes out of the Bypas Air Control Section of the FSM. Meaning when you turn the steering wheel the switch makes and sends a gnd signal to the ECU (Non Turbo ecu) to let it know your turning the wheel and the ECU then ups the duty cycle of the BAC.

 

3D, 2K, 1R

So 3D you can just cut?

2K can be cut if you run a S5 turbo?

And 1R can be cut if you dont want to run the knock box and dont have power steering?

Basically if i took all my turbo parts i have and put it on my n/a, the T2 ECU is just plugged in and i dont have to rewire anything?

Just want to confirm this so in the future i can turbo my n/a....so please HELP!

 

NEVER cut the wires at the ECU. You just depin them so they can be used at a later date or IF you make a mistake.

You can leave the 2K alone if using a series five turbo i.e. no twin scroll. The 2K is an output and the output is a GROUND signal. So leave the thing alone.

3D can be depinned also, since your series four car has no fuel pump resistor relay. Or left alone. It also just outputs a gnd signal.

1R can be left as is or depinned. You have no pwr steering so just leave it alone/as is. It is a input wire from the pwr steering unit and the input is a gnd. If you have no pwr steering then it'll never see a gnd put on it.

So in all the cases above you can default to NO ACTION TAKEN. And press on to other matters.

 

Sweet!

 

I have an 86 N/A I am swapping that DOES NOT have pwr steering but I want to put pwr steering in when I do the swap.

so if I put pwr steering in, what the hell do I do to the 1R pin? leave it, re-route it, or deepin it?

thanks guys, I know this thread is getting a lot of "I'm confused" posts so sorry for another one but my situation hasn't been addressed. BTW, I want the pwr steering for drifting. figured it would be a little easier for counter steering reaction and speed time.

 

bump.
anyone know about my above mentioned question?

 

Just depin it at the ECU. It is NOT needed for the power steering to work. The ECU does not control pwr steering. It ups the rpms a bit when you turn the wheel.
That's all the ECU does.

 

thank you so much HAILERS. this swap is going to be a lot easier then I thought. I hope to have the money together for the spring and then its on to my widebody with custom fiberglass front bumper and fenders. I may have this done by next years end after all and in time for 2010's hot import nights in boston. my car club will be very pleased. thanks again.

 

ya i just finished my swap and the power steering does not make any difference. when you turn the wheel even at a red light it drops the engien max 25 rpm it makes little to no difference.

 

Nice. Good stuff. I have been wondering about this for a while. I am currently putting together a 87 J-spec TII engine for my first gen. I have a complete left and right harness from a S4 NA that I didn't know if I could use. Now I know!

 

The N/A harness will only work with an S4 turbo 2 or does it matter if it's an S5? just to clarify that. If this isn't already in the tech FAQ, it should be.