Piranha

Hey guys, a friend and I are both trying to take our engines out of our engine bays (both are blown). We are having trouble with the places where you attach the hoist. In the Hayes manual they show it being hoisted in the rear of the engine on a bolt that goes through the engine AND the bellhousing. We don't want to take the trans out of our cars. How do we do this?

Thanks

Wankel7

On my 91 TII there are eyelets on the back of the intake manifold and on the intercooler bracket. Just hook her up there.

Not sure on an NA.

James

Matlock

My '86 N/A had the eyelets too. I didn't have to take my trans out. It's there just look a little harder.

Steven

scathcart

double post.

I'm a *****.

scathcart

Sniper_X

Heres how you do it.

You must have an engine leveler and two chains.

The topmost bolt in the engine/bellhousing area is a passthrough bolt.

(on the top passenger side)

Obtain a longer bolt that fits the same as the stock one and two large washers. take a chain link and pass the bolt + washer through it and then tigten it agains the chain.

attach one chain to the fron tab that is on the front housing and the other to the bolt that you placed in the back.

list then engine from its mounts and then slide it away from the tranny.

Make SURE that you have tranny supported by a jack in its topmost position.

then pull forward.

Pictures to follow......

Give me a few minutes and ill have them for you.

I swear this is the easiest way to do it.

I use a spare engine hoist tab and a bolt, but you can use the washer and chain trick.

remember pass the bot through the engine backwards so that you dont have hte tranny bolted to the engine.

does this make sense?

Rotorific

iTrader: (1)

you dont have the two hooks???? if not at least have the back hook and your alternator still attached and sling the chain around and thru the alt and the back hook and hoist it out ive done it a few times that way...it really works any way you do it as long as its securly fastened just use your head...

RX7FC3S

hypntyz7

UH, hook a chain to the front eyelet and teh rear eyelet and lift it out?

if youre doing this bare block(why, its the hard way to do all that work inside the engine bay when you could do it on the floor/engine stand) then youll have to use a spare bolt for the rear of the engine. or put a sturdy bolt in one of the intake manifold bolt holes or something.

Piranha

Thanks for all the help. Well, neither of us have an engine stand, and we didn't get a cherry picker until today, so we both took off as much as we could with the engine in the engine bay.

Sniper_X

Your following the FSM method.
its the one i use.

this is why i use the extra engine chain tab and a bolt.

The two tabs are for mazda assembly.

Dont ask me why the FSM puts us through all this.

One day Ill learn the factory installation/removal method.

Its okay that you did it this way.

Its the best way to rebuild an entire engine.

You now must re-hose/gasket the whole engine and chave the injectors cleaned.

All these things are ready for this to happen.

Also check that your oil injectors are only able to be blown one way. (they are one way valved)

Piranha

Actually, I've been pretty much leaning on going to premix. I'm going to look up some stuff about that tonight/tomorrow.

M5150

do u have to disconnect anything to change out engine mounts?

Sniper_X

no just have a hydrolic jack available to hold up the engine.