How To: Install 5/6-Port Sleeve Inserts
06-09-10, 08:48 PM
#1
How To: Install 5/6-Port Sleeve Inserts
Just thought I would make this thread for anyone interested in installing the 6-port sleeves. I had removed my rats nest in the past and now that I will be moving to an "emissions" state in a few months I wanted to get everything back on there. A buddy of mine luckily had all the emissions parts and I bought those off of him.
The intake manifolds were very caked with carbon. I decided to clean them (took a few days). And after cleaning them (since I had them all apart) I said what the hell, and threw some paint and clear coat on them. 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of aluminum paint, 3 coats of clear:
(final product)
In the process of removing all the components off the intake manifolds, the 5/6 port sleeve rods were actually seized. I have heard of these things being stuck before but man they were literally stuck. I ended up breaking one rod and the other one I managed to get out. Luckily I had my 2 good pairs from the lower intake I was currently running.
Now to installing the sleeves. I have heard horror stories about these things being eaten by the engine. I decided to do this in a manner that I wouldn't have to worry about that happening.
First, find something that will hold the sleeve while letting you use a punch to pop out the pin. Make sure the sleeve window is facing UP. Take note of how much depth the pin has in relation to the sleeve (for installation purposes). Punch out the pin downwards:
(Make sure to note which way the pin went out, it will go in the reverse of this and it actually can only go in one way unless you force it in)
Push the inserts into the sleeves. The first few inches are tight but it gets better as you go in deeper
Stop pushing in the insert HERE do not go further and read on!!!
Now, pineapple's instructions say to use RED loctite, but GREEN would be the appropriate one since it is meant for "assembly of parts". (They also say you can use green, but I would just use green and not even think about RED).
Now, before we proceed. If you are really paranoid about those sleeves getting eaten by the engine, take some sand paper and lightly scuff the inside surface of the sleeve that you have left "open" (see picture below). This will ensure that the loctite has some more material to bite into. I was planning to do this but forgot about it when I was working on these.
Then, apply the loctite liberally in the area in front of the sleeve, make sure all the area gets soaked by it.
Finish pushing the last few inches of the insert until it touches the wall of the sleeve. Next, take a punch and peen the sides of the sleeve so the insert is locked inside there for sure. Pineapple racing says use a screw driver, well from what I found out, the screw driver will start tearing the metal more that it will dent it. Use a punch:
(try to use one with this tip for best results)
The intake manifolds were very caked with carbon. I decided to clean them (took a few days). And after cleaning them (since I had them all apart) I said what the hell, and threw some paint and clear coat on them. 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of aluminum paint, 3 coats of clear:
(final product)
In the process of removing all the components off the intake manifolds, the 5/6 port sleeve rods were actually seized. I have heard of these things being stuck before but man they were literally stuck. I ended up breaking one rod and the other one I managed to get out. Luckily I had my 2 good pairs from the lower intake I was currently running.
Now to installing the sleeves. I have heard horror stories about these things being eaten by the engine. I decided to do this in a manner that I wouldn't have to worry about that happening.
First, find something that will hold the sleeve while letting you use a punch to pop out the pin. Make sure the sleeve window is facing UP. Take note of how much depth the pin has in relation to the sleeve (for installation purposes). Punch out the pin downwards:
(Make sure to note which way the pin went out, it will go in the reverse of this and it actually can only go in one way unless you force it in)
Push the inserts into the sleeves. The first few inches are tight but it gets better as you go in deeper
Stop pushing in the insert HERE do not go further and read on!!!
Now, pineapple's instructions say to use RED loctite, but GREEN would be the appropriate one since it is meant for "assembly of parts". (They also say you can use green, but I would just use green and not even think about RED).
Now, before we proceed. If you are really paranoid about those sleeves getting eaten by the engine, take some sand paper and lightly scuff the inside surface of the sleeve that you have left "open" (see picture below). This will ensure that the loctite has some more material to bite into. I was planning to do this but forgot about it when I was working on these.
Then, apply the loctite liberally in the area in front of the sleeve, make sure all the area gets soaked by it.
Finish pushing the last few inches of the insert until it touches the wall of the sleeve. Next, take a punch and peen the sides of the sleeve so the insert is locked inside there for sure. Pineapple racing says use a screw driver, well from what I found out, the screw driver will start tearing the metal more that it will dent it. Use a punch:
(try to use one with this tip for best results)
06-09-10, 08:48 PM
#2
Hit the edges of the sleeve closest to the insert so you get a dent on the sleeve that locks the insert like so:
(doesn't have to be dramatic, a noticeable dent to the eye is good enough)
Using the punch that you used to remove the pin, reinstall the pin making sure the pin is nice and flush with the edges of the sleeve. Make sure you get the pin in good so it doesn't come flying out when you drive.
Insert your sleeves. Notice to get them up to line properly you will have to insert them upside down (not like the picture) with the rear sleeve window facing the 8-o-clock position and the front sleeve facing the 4-o-clock position. You can play with once you have the lower intake manifold close enough to get the rods to attach to the inserts.
I decided while doing this to paint the actuators too, they were looking corroded:
And everything buttoned up:
Conclusion:
Well, I had my 5/6th ports non-fuctioning and removed before I did this. I like having them working again, the power is smooth at all rpms, not just 4k and up. Did these help? All I can say is the power band transition is smooth now that i have working 5/6th ports and VDI : ) I am sure these help direct the air better than just having it smash into the wall and then getting sucked into the engine.
(doesn't have to be dramatic, a noticeable dent to the eye is good enough)
Using the punch that you used to remove the pin, reinstall the pin making sure the pin is nice and flush with the edges of the sleeve. Make sure you get the pin in good so it doesn't come flying out when you drive.
Insert your sleeves. Notice to get them up to line properly you will have to insert them upside down (not like the picture) with the rear sleeve window facing the 8-o-clock position and the front sleeve facing the 4-o-clock position. You can play with once you have the lower intake manifold close enough to get the rods to attach to the inserts.
I decided while doing this to paint the actuators too, they were looking corroded:
And everything buttoned up:
Conclusion:
Well, I had my 5/6th ports non-fuctioning and removed before I did this. I like having them working again, the power is smooth at all rpms, not just 4k and up. Did these help? All I can say is the power band transition is smooth now that i have working 5/6th ports and VDI : ) I am sure these help direct the air better than just having it smash into the wall and then getting sucked into the engine.
06-27-10, 04:49 PM
#4
s4 Pride
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I suggest this be placed in the archive.
This couldn't have been better timing for you to do this writeup as I just got the Pineapple sleeves and was still iffy on the installation bit.
This couldn't have been better timing for you to do this writeup as I just got the Pineapple sleeves and was still iffy on the installation bit.
. I'm contemplating getting some of these before my n/a goes back together.
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03-05-11, 08:05 AM
#10
Ban Peak
iTrader: (49)
Good write-up! I did mine over 3 years ago with red loctite and a screwdriver with no problems!
My S5 SCREAMS after 6K RPM. It is a GTUs with a Miata gears, but it just feels like it moves so much faster than a stock N/A.
Does your car feel the same way jjcobm?
My S5 SCREAMS after 6K RPM. It is a GTUs with a Miata gears, but it just feels like it moves so much faster than a stock N/A.
Does your car feel the same way jjcobm?
03-05-11, 03:23 PM
#13
Naturally Aspirated
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Disconecting the 6-port actuators or sleeves all together is a big mistake. Some people do this because they think that their peak will feel stronger when it hits when really is not. This effect is due to the engine starting at a deficit, rather than finishing a higher peak. The result is you are left with low-end power losses while your top-end power is unchanged.
03-05-11, 04:04 PM
#14
Disconecting the 6-port actuators or sleeves all together is a big mistake. Some people do this because they think that their peak will feel stronger when it hits when really is not. This effect is due to the engine starting at a deficit, rather than finishing a higher peak. The result is you are left with low-end power losses while your top-end power is unchanged.
03-05-11, 05:18 PM
#15
Naturally Aspirated
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yea its a common mistake. When my car was sold to me, my acv wires were burnt off and one of my actuators was seized close so one of my 6 ports wasnt really hittin, problem solved now though.
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