I finished fabing up a TID with a 45 degree bend and im going to use a JB weld bond to get the two nipples i put in to stay. The problem is the JB weld can handle up to 300 degrees and im not sure if the intake tube reaches these tempratures. Its an alminum tube so id imagine it wouldent but im not sure.
Thanks.

 

Anyone??? I need to know like right now, cuz if it gets hotter i dont want to use the stuff.

 

I beleive I saw some number quoted on teamfc3s or nopistons with AIT's around 245 during the winter. I'd say don't use JB after turbo/before IC.


Santiago

 

yeah i knew it was close to that. Im gonna go get the other kind then cuz it handles up to 600 degrees.
Thanks

 

You don't glue metals together, you weld them. If you want it don't properly, take it to a welder. An exhaust shop or engineering shop would have it done in 10 minutes.

 

If you're really talking about the TID, I don't see how it would get anywhere close to 245... In other words, before the turbo, right?

After the turbo sure, but you're not sucking 245* air into the turbo.


Regardless though, as NZ mentioned, you should just weld it. Probably won't cost you much more than the material to 'glue' it.

 

1987RX7guy misunderstood I think. He thought you meant between the turbo and the intercooler, and you were actually talking about the elbow on the TID. JB Weld will work fine. It won't look the best, but its not going to melt.

-Joe

 

You should not be JB Weld'ing ANYTHING close to the turbo.

If it's the TID, it's designed to flex with the motion of the engine.
The JB Weld will CRACK.

If it's after the turbo into the intercooler, it really gets to hot and vibration just kills it.

You really need to WELD things on to be reliable.


-Ted

 

I agree...a weld is the best, and thats what I used on my TID. However, don't you think JB Welding the nipple for the PCV line into the hard elbow of a TID would be ok? Ghetto? Yes, but that part doesn't see any flex at all.

-Joe

 

You'd be surprised what can fail due to heat and vibration.
We're running into problems with a few Haltech cars due to large cone filters clamped onto the turbo compressor inlet.  The heat and vibration shake the cone so badly that it eats the rubber flange.  The sheer mass of the cone filter doesn't help either.

If you're going to do that, I would recommend a glob of silicone STV over JB Weld or any hard-curing epoxy.


-Ted

 

You'd be surprised what can fail due to heat and vibration.
We're running into problems with a few Haltech cars due to large cone filters clamped onto the turbo compressor inlet.  The heat and vibration shake the cone so badly that it eats the rubber flange.  The sheer mass of the cone filter doesn't help either.

If you're going to do that, I would recommend a glob of silicone RTV over JB Weld or any hard-curing epoxy.


-Ted

 

Using that same approach, what's your outlook on the use of JB weld to fill the left over holes after the TB mod is done.

 

We've done that.
It works.
It doesn't get as hot over there versus next to the turbo.


-Ted