you will fry your piston rings!!!!

 

i was thinking about it, and i am wondering if maybe the Otto cycle rotaries we are using are maybe more suited to nitrous use than a 4 stroke piston engine? i mean because of the fact that all stages of the combustion cycle occur in a seperate physical part...
it's the same reason why rotaries are suited to burn hydrogen better than piston engines...

 

^ simply their lack of reciprocating motion makes me think rotaries can have a lot more crap shoved down their throat before they choke = )

still would like to know about the octane though.

 

 

OK guys, please keep it on topic and keep the post whoring to a minimum. Thanks.

 

aaron, who're you kidding, this is the RX-7 Club.


Scathcart, what sorta shot do you run on your t2? and what setup/precautions are you using with your nitrous

 

Rob at Pineapple Racing recommended S4 rotors for my S5 engine rebuild. I "plan" a 200 rwhp NA with a 100 shot of nitrous. He said that the lower compression rotors will be easier to tune and he also said that I shouldnt worry too much about the extra .5 lbs on each rotor. Something I didnt expect was his recommendation to have an auxilary fuel cell with its own fuel pump. Maybe I heard him wrong, but I thought my fuel setup was sufficient: Walbro pump, "Para-rail" fuel system w/ aeromotive FPR, APEXi SAFC and brand new 440cc injectors.

Anyone seen something similiar? Is the FPR and "Para-rail" system overkill?

Thanks

 

Yes, an N/A engine using nitrous should run higher octane. How high depends on how big a nitrous shot...

That NX kit is a wet system: two solenoids, one for fuel, one for nitrous, and the foggernozzle has two inputs, one for furl and one for nitrous. If it was a dry kit, there would only be one solenoid, and the fogger would have a single input.

 

100% correct.
Their long intake runners, high intake velocity, relatively constant intake flow for each runner, makes them extremely well suited as well.

 

Right now? I don't even have an RX-7 at the moment... I recently sold my mint S5 N/A and my TII and bought a bike. I have another vehicle for work, and that's all I need at the moment. I am trying to buy a get some more real estate before I purchase another RX-7.

My girlfriend's car will run something around a 200 hp shot on a nitrous controller. It will also be turbocharged

How about you describe an engine, and I will describe how I have run a similarly built engine on nitrous.

 

I disagree with Rob's choice of using low compression rotors. They're not needed, with proper tuning, ESPECIALLY with shots as low as 100 hp. Those extra .5 lbs will lower your power both off and on nitrous, and decrease your redline.

The idea behind the auxilay fuel cell with its own pump is to allow you to run 87 octane regular in the normal gas tank, and then use race gas (116 octane) gas in the fuel cell for when the nitrous is injected.
I personally don't like this set-up, and would simply run higher-octane gas in the gas tank all the time.

You fuel system seems fine for a street-ported N/A.

I don't agree with Rob's choices.

 

Hmmmmm....I wonder why he would recommend them even if he was only building the engine. Oh well, thats another thread.

Hey Sean, what do you think about the Jacobs Nitrous Controller. It like $225 on summit. You ever messed with one before?

Oh ya, the Para-rail fuel system would look cool, but its probably over kill.

 

the second fuel system is for,,,higher octane,and so you dont lose any rail press.
and have a lean spike in the air/fuel. i'm running a 150 shot on my 87 n/a mild porting done and running a t2 pump and a high press.- high flow fuel filter and have no problems. dyno tuned and all.i have about 6,000 miles on this set up on a fresh rebuild and the compression is 95-100 on the front and 100ish-108

 

BigDY yeah Pineapple probably did tell you to run a seperate fuel cell. It offers less complication in running the fuel into a Wet NOS system from your stock fuel system which is already being demanded to force a certain amount of fuel into your engine. To elimate complications etc, adding a seperate Fuel Cell and Pump is a good idea its what im going to try myself or Even just using the same Cell with two seperate taps and fuel pumps....Also the Oil Seals dont last under NOS they tend to get flattened over time all depends I hear Atkins sells some that are extra tough ready to withstand these conditions. The Lower Compression rotors are probably also for the reason you should always retard the timing minimum 2 degrees and when your car is running without NOS and does not have a retard ignition device its Nice to have those Low Compression rotors.