Of course, I'm talking in moderation, say 50-80hp shot.

 

As long as it's a wet system with proper tuning, it shouldn't be very hard on it at all.

 

on my 86 gxl i was thinking of sprayin a 50 shot on it...heard its really safe on the engine (50 shot) but some1 told me the nitrous can make the apex seals 2 cold and crack them

 

I've actually heard thats its not too bad, of course it should be tuned properly.

CHeck: http://www.1300cc.com/howto/how2/NOS.htm

 

nitrous isnt hard on a motor... its the extra fuel that goes in there that is

 

so any of ur n/a guyz have n2o on ur car?

 

i want more info on this too, i need 50+ horsepower easy until i get all the stuff i need to do a turbo setup

 

Its not hard to install. just without a timing retard or a upgraded fuel pump keep the shot small. I was running 50 for a few months and then I went to a 75 but now I am going to a 30 just a few jet sizes smaller cuz I am doing a turbo n/a.

 

its fine.

just make sure fule pressure is more than enough and jet more fuel than nitrous if its a wet shot. if its a dry shot, dont go over 50 and make sure ur injectors are certified as being perfect.

use higher octane fuel, retard ignition timing 1 degree/25hp, get nitrous and fuel solenoid filters for safety and dont be greedy with power. start slow then work ur way up.

Sean Cathcart taught me ALOT about it and as far as Im concerned he's run the largest shot of nitrous Ive seen and heard of in a rotary for a street driven car.

 

Makes you wonder what happens to an NA when you inject a shot thats too big for the injectors/pump. I don't think it would detonate would it? nitrous is alot colder than compressed air like on a turbo. Would you just lose power? Or would it not burn all at once and it starts going back into the intake, blowing up your manifold.

YES BLOW THE WELDS ON YOUR INTAKE!

WHERES THE MAD SCIENTIST?

 

I don't think you can really fire a shot "too big" for the injectors when you're using a wet system..

I mean, there's tons of fuel flowing through the rails, most of which gets returned to the tank, and the wet nitrous kit mixes fuel and the nitrous together to compensate so you can run your stock fueling and still be safe. I've read about people running 250 shots with only an upgraded pump, if that.

 

There's not really a "too much" for the internals of the engine, but there is certainly a too much for the externals... such as engine porting, intake manifolds, timing, and fueling system.

With a wet system, we don't care at all about the injectors. If they fuel the engine when its not on nitrous, they will fuel the engine when it is on nitrous.

We DO care about the fuel pump... If it is not large enough to supply enough fuel to feed the injectors and the nitrous foggers and maintain constant rail pressure, you will blow your engine.

 

Well... nitrous enters the intake tract at -127 degrees Fahrenheit due to the extreme pressure drop from the bottle. However, this does not mean that the apex seals see the nitrous at this temperature. The intake air charge is significantly cooled, and in turn, the nitrous charge is significantly raised in temperature.

The "nitrous being too cold and breaking apex seals" is a long, misunderstood myth. The nitrous/air charge is simply not cold enough to induce thermonuclear shock to the apex seals.

I have never seen an apex seal break from thermonuclear shock under nitrous use in my extensive use of the gas.

 

Just to clarify....

I said to "jet a couple sizes larger on the fuel side of wet systems until you can tune the system". You would not want to run this rich all the time; it would only cost you power.
I have a LONG set list of jet sizes and their corresponding fuel pressures, nitrous bottle pressures, and their resultant before/after AFR's.

I also didn't really say to make sure your fuel pressure is more than enough, but to ensure that you have enough fuel flow to maintain a constant rail pressure. The best way to do this, and the safest, is to dry-test you nitrous system before you ever run it in the engine.

Also, you generally don't need to worry about ignition retard on stock timing on the stock ECU until over the 100-125 hp range of nitrous shots.

 

While the stock internals can support well over those numbers, it does not mean ports can.

With stock exhaust ports, especially with the N/A diffusers, running a 250 hp shot would net nowhere near that amount of hp to the tires; you would merely be wasting nitrous and fuel.

The same goes for the intake ports and the intake manifold... I personally don't like the auxilary port system at all for nitrous injection.

 

Yah, most of the higher shot systems I've seen set up on N/A rx7's (read 150 to 250 range) were on ported motors. The max I've ever heard of on a non-ported n/a was probably 150, while the average is around 100.

 

I wonder who was the first to think of using nitrous in an engine? I know its been around for a while, I mean I used to play top gear 2 for the super nintendo and they were using nitrous, so obviously they took it from real life. That was 1992

 

Dood.... you gotta upgrade ur valves... don't wanna burn those out..... hehe

 

I know it was used on aircraft back in the 1930s...............................

 

germans in their airplanes in WWI... it was on the history channel

 

yep the would come in and bomb a place then hit the nitrous and high tail it out of their.

 

your in the clear as long as your floor pan dosent fall out.. if all elce fails, you can slam the laptop screen shut at the last second and save yourself!

 

WWII**

Germans and the British both used nitrous. It was on Full Throttle even ;o.

 

ehh i missed an "I" oh well

 

interesting about the war planes... that's a frightening though = )

back to the cars...

scathcart I'd appreciate your input; an N/A rotary with nitrous should run higher octane? how high? premium?

also, is this NX kit a wet or a dry kit? http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/ImportStage1.htm

I assume it's wet because in this installation pictorial they talk about feeding fuel to one solenoid, then connecting that solenoid to the n20 solenoid, then connecting that solenoid to your intake. That is a wet system, then, yes?

install pics: http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Images...nstall-pg1.htm

-marshall