Just a quickie here guys....

How the hell do I find TDC?

My pullies are of no help whatsoever as there are no markings on them at all.

I need to stab my CAS in and it's a bit hard when you have no idea of where TDC is...

any ideas? sorry if this is an obvious and newbie question

 

Seems that it's rather hard to find TDC without those markings...

 

There are a couple of ways to do this.

1) with stock pullies/stock pulley diameter and a simple measuring tape

2) with aftermarket pullies/altered pulley diameter, and a degree wheel

To keep it simple, I will go over 1 here, since that would cover the majority of users here. I developed this method by examining a stock (not tampered with, original) engine and timing marks, and making measurements based upon those stock timing marks.

Take out the rear trailing plug. Use a flashlight and mirror to center an apex seal in the open hole. Make a mark on the front pulley, adjacent to the timing pin on the front cover. Now, as I recall (it has been a while since I had to do this, and my memory is fuzzy) I measured clockwise 1-3/4 inches and made another mark. That mark is then your leading timing mark with which to stab the CAS. That measurement is not exact, but should get you within 5 degrees of stock timing.

I *hope* I am remembering that correctly, I believe I am. Give it a try and let me know how it works. Perhaps later I will get time and remember to do a proper writeup with pics.

 

Look at the bottom of this article, way down at the BOTTOM of the article: http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

 

Give me a minute. This site is fighting me. There is another jpg coming up.

The idea is this. See the picture? Yes. As you know, the bolt pattern for the pulley is NOT symetrical.

Find the two bolts that are the furthest apart. Those two bolts are the ones to the right in this picure. Yours are the same pattern. Notice that the KEYWAY is up to your left in the picture (I know, its a dirty pulley and you can hardly see it)

Here's what to do once you find the two bolts that are the furthest apart......You turn YOUR pulley til it looks like this picture. With the two holes furthest apart, to the RIGHT in the picute, one above the other.

Now turn the pulley clockwise as you look into the pulley. Turn the pulley til the bottom bolt of the two that were furthest apart is now ON DEAD BOTTOM.

Now you will have that bottom bolt DEAD OPPOSITE another bolt directly above it at the top of the pulley.

If you now make a mark on the pulley just opposite the FIXED PIN ON THE COVER......you have just marked your LEAD *MARK*. The TRAIL should be located 9/16ths to the left of that mark.

 

I'll try once more.

Well I tried five times and this site does not support JPG'S.

So go here: http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=28518

In this jpg, the two bolts furthest apart are to the right, one above the other. I put BLACK RTV on the heads to ID them.

Now rotate that pulley ANTI-CLOCKWISE til the RED HEADED bolt is now DEAD BOTTOM.

You should now have one of the BLACK bolts directly above the RED one, and the two cutting the centerline of the pulley.

Now mark the pulley where the fixed pin crosses it. THAT is the LEAD mark.

The words above are correct.

 

Try to ignore the post above the one with the URL in it. This site was and IS PISSING ME OFF! So much I got the clockwise and anticlockwise directions *** backwards. I've ******* wasted a good hour trying to post jpgs on this site. At least the other site will accept jpgs!

 

Wow, great info thanks HAILERS _much_ appreciated!!

I've got the timing dead on now, but a new problem has arisen... as they always do

Go here if you want to know more

 

EEEK! Scary. Why don't you just put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel lines and see if the FPR is ok or not? I mean, everybody has one laying around in the glove box just waiting to be used.


Sorry, I don't understand what is happening. I see you rebuilt an engine......it's turbo charged........you overboosted at sometime, I think before the rebuild.....and you have four 460's????? And it's flooding heavily all through the revs.

That part gets me lost in a hurry. Why 460's? And you know I know zip about MicroTech.

 

I wished I had a fuel pressure guage, that would solve alot more misteries..


Quick history lesson...
My car was a stock N/A..
Bolted a turbo onto it..
Was fine with the 460's upto around 10psi..
Wastegate line popped off (my fault I guess.. ) while flat to the floor in 4th gear..
18psi was reached before I could even notice my boost guage moved..
Microtech told the storey in the LOGMax though, Max Duty cycle = 100%, Boost = 18psi

Hehe, SO.. anyway I just rebuilt the engine as a stock N/A for now (with a bit of porting.. ), I've got another engine in the build now that I'm making for a proper turbo engine..

This is basically a beater engine (rebuild only cost some new apex seals, already had everything lieing around).

 

Maybe swap the primary with the secondary injectors??? That would be a good check for under 3500 and no load conditions......

On a NON TURBO, I've unbolted the secondary rail before and zip tied the injectors on to the rail....then turned the key to ON with the fuel pump check connector jumpered , just to see if they were leaking etc. Maybe you could do that with all four injectors????

So you were using a MicroTech on the Turbo'd n/a......so what are you using on the present engine that is not turbo'd?? Maybe the MicroTech map is too rich for a n/a......but you would have thought of that by now. How about putting the old ECU in the system instead if the fuel injectors check out ok??

and last but not least.....I've too much time on my hands....a spare non turbo sitting in the garage.....a turbo intake manifold and throttle body bought off EBAy last month along with a lower intake manifold in the mail from EBAy.....a SAFC that I can rip off my other car in a minute and a half....and a 86 non turbo with a year old rebuild......so guess what I'm going to do? Yeah, I know ....I should know better, but as long as I don't drive any further from home than the cost of a tow truck pull back home...why not. I'd do the supercharger thing if I hadn't bought these parts already.

 

Hrmm.. Some pretty good ideas there.. especially swapping the injectors....

I'm running the microtech on the current engine aswell, i've reverted it back to an N/A, not turbo, map though.
However! someone over at nopistons.com altered me to the fact that since this engine has or at least would poor vacume at idle since its not broken in and doesn't have great compression that it would be running way too rich..


So, some good ideas to try out, just gotta wait for this battery to charge now...

 

About the fuel pump. Did you put something like a WAldo in there for the turbo.......and leave it in there after you went back to the non turbo? Just a thought.

 

And while I'm at it......about the TDC marks on the pulley...... The pulley in my JPG had the marks, but you really, really had to look for them. They were but traces of what they were originally.

So what I'm saying, is that now that you know where the marks should be, run you finger nail over that area of the pulley, especially on the aft edge of the pulley. I THINK you might be able to ID where they are that way. Or use a magnyfying glass.

Enough of TDC for today, back to digging the hole in the backyard!

 

Yeah i've got a series 6 fuel pump in there, but thats not enough to 'over-run' the stock FPR, so thats not why its running rich if thats what you were getting at?

and yeah i've found the marks now... thankfully, and marked them again since there was literally no paint/mark on them at all.