DEZERTE

What are you supposed to do when removing the air pump? do you just plug the hose that connected to it or something? What accomodations are you supposed to make once its gone (on an S5)?
Such as when you remove PS you have to plug the oil and coolant holes with bolts.
Thanks

shiftnmadkwik

in your sig it says 5&6 ports functional.. after you remove the pump they wont be and youll have to make a new picture

DEZERTE

I know about that ok? Im just asking how to remove the airpump, im going to reconfigure the ports.

shiftnmadkwik

im just messing around.. im not sure the exact steps other than just pulling the pump and acv and using a blockoff plate on the acv, whatever runs to your now defuct actuators and vdi must be dealt with. im sure you already knew this though

DEZERTE

defuct?

ddub

Take out airpump/bracket/tensioner bracket and bolts along with its belt. Take out the acv and block it off. On the back of the engine on the same side as the acv will be a port where normally a pipe connects to your split air pipe that goes to your cat. Plug that with a vac plug (its really big though). I think I used like a 9/16" vac plug or something from B&B Auto Parts. You're done! No bolts needed to plug any holes like ps.

ddub

Oh one thing, this is what I did on my s4, I'm pretty sure it's the same on s5, though. Just look at ur airpump and where everything goes. The airpump should have a rubber hose coming out the back going into the acv, and then the acv comes out the back where you will plug (like I said before).

shiftnmadkwik

defunct srry goys i rilly spewl goud

NZConvertible

I presume you going to run the 6PI and VDI systems off the supercharger?

DEZERTE

Youre bright, I didnt even say anything about the supercharger in this thread either
Do you have any recommendations or comments?

NZConvertible

I had your supercharger thread open at the same time.

I made some comments in you 6PI and VDI thread. You'll need use a bleed valve so you don't put more than 3-4psi to the actuators, otherwise you might pop the diaphrams.

As for removing the air pump, remove the ACV too, block that off, and cap any vac lines. You can remove the air pump relief line and silencer under the right headlight too.

drft_180sx

If going with the supercharger (with its relatively quick spool), shouldn't you just wire the ports open?? like in a TII (which has no 6PI)??

DEZERTE

I understand wiring ports open, and removing ports are 2 different things..

FDreaming

back on the how to remove the airpump topic. What do you do with the hose that goes from the airpump down to the lower radiator hose, right were it goes into the radiator. I think the hose originally connected to my airbox.... this is on an S4

ddub

The airpump should have 2 hoses total coming out of it. One comes off the top and goes into the air box (if you have one) or should have some kind of mini filter on it if you have a cone filter, this is where the airpump gets the air that is eventually put into the cat. Then, there is a hose on the back that goes into the ACV. The ACV will either send the air to the split air pipe via a large nipple/port thing on the back, or it will dump it into the manifold when it isn't "needed." The airpump has a bracket that holds it up and a tensioner bracket for belt tension adjustment. Both brackets are held on by 12mm bolts I believe. Just undo all the bolts, take the brackets off, take the airpump out, take the belt that is on the airpump out, and take the hoses that are connected to it out. Then take the ACV off and block it with a blockoff plate. Now, get rid of your cat otherwise it will clog since it's not getting any air. The nipple/port thing that I mentioned before (where the split air pipe connects to) that comes from the ACV and supplies the air to the cat needs to be plugged. IIRC I used a 9/16" plug from B&B Auto parts store, it was tight but it went on. There are also 2 nipples on top of where the ACV used to be (once you've taken it out) that need to be plugged with normal 3.5mm vac plugs. And you're done! But now you need to either get a dual alt pulley or use a "yoohoo" belt for your waterpump to keep it from slipping.

DEZERTE

Why will it slip? (sorry for the simple questions)

ddub

Well if you look how it's set up stock, there are 2 belts on the water pump, the alternator belt and the airpump belt. When you remove the airpump there is only 1 belt now on it, the alternator. Most people tend to believe that it'd be better to leave it with 2 belts, I mean sure 1 *could* be fine for a while, but your chances of it slipping are much greater with 1 instead of 2, obviously. So you have two options, either get a dual alt pulley and run 2 alternator belts down for the water pump, or do the "yoohoo" belt. Here's the how-to on the yoohoo belt (btw I'm running the yoohoo belt instead of the dual alt pulley).

http://1300cc.com/howto/how2/belt.htm

Now, as far as where to get the belt, don't go to a hardware store like the how-to says, I went to so many and couldn't find anything that would fit. I did however come across this. It is from napa, perfect size. You can order it online or get it at any store, here's the info on it.

Item#: NBH257215
Price: $ 8.49
Imperial Length: 22 1/8''
Top Width: 3/8''
Angle Degree: 36 Degree

NZConvertible

I just answered that.

As for fan belts, I can tell you from personal experience that if you have the stock thermoclutch fan, you absolutely need two belts on the water pump pulley or it will slip when the fan's fully engaged. Do it properly and get one of Higgi's alternator pullies.

Also from experience, if you don't have the stock fan, you don't need two belts on the water pump pulley. I ran my 12AT with an e-fan and one belt and it never slipped or got hot (including track time).

DEZERTE

THanks dDub