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how do i lose the air flow meter?

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Old 01-03-04, 06:07 PM
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Originally posted by imloggedin
holy crap.. 50$
banzaitoyota had em for $20. hiGGi sells em. Mazda should have them (for Formula Mazdas; prolly lookin at $50+).
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Old 01-03-04, 08:40 PM
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Originally posted by casio
i heard double pulleys have a knack for ruining alternators' lives. i'd like one thick belt, personally. i have one belt on a dual pulley because i bought two "same sized" belts (mazda products) and they were completely different sizes.
I've been running a Racing Beat double-sheave alternator pulley (underdrive) and the stock main pulley for over 5 years with no ill effects on alternator bearings.

I use two brand new alternator belts when changing them.  I run standard deflection of 1/4" (or slightly more) on the largest span, and I have had zero problems with the set-up.

We just recently found out that the Gates types belts have at least THREE different cross-section angles, which can give you headaches - this causes the different belts to sit on the pulleys a little differently.  The different types are the same part number, but there is an "A", "B" or "C" printed on the belt itself.


-Ted

Last edited by RETed; 01-03-04 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 01-03-04, 08:42 PM
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Originally posted by imloggedin
where can i get a dual pulley for the alternator?
hIGGI also sells them, but these are NOT underdriven.  They also come in an assortment of anodized colors to give you an option and dress up your engine bay.
http://rx7cz.net/shop/
http://rx7cz.net/pics/pulleys/ <- to see colors



-Ted
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Old 01-03-04, 09:01 PM
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do they need to be underdriven?
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Old 01-03-04, 09:27 PM
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Originally posted by imloggedin
do they need to be underdriven?
No.&nbsp; In fact, on earlier Zenki FC's, this can be a headache, as the stock alternator is not as strong.


-Ted
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Old 01-03-04, 11:34 PM
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i'm a little off subject by now, but RETed, i got the impression that you were against the standalone also.
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Old 01-04-04, 12:46 AM
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Oh grasshoppah...you need to read some of my replies I've posted in the past...


-Ted
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Old 01-04-04, 01:19 AM
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hey, could you pm me with all your insight?
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Old 01-04-04, 01:26 AM
  #59  
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Originally posted by trueimport
I'm sorry to tell you but a stand alone in one of the bigest waists of money there is!! everybody thinks that you cant run fast times without it, but what is fast to you? I know for a fact because I've been there to see a car run a 12.000 and still had the mass air meter on the car NO STAND ALONE!!! If a 12.00 is not a good enouph time for you on a street tire then you shouldnt bother having a street driven car. because you all know as well as I do that if you put a slick on the car it would easly be an 11.7 ish run! so take the money from a stand alone and put it into some other upgrade.
I'm not saying that one persons opinion is right and anothers is wrong. We all know the basics when it comes to making power and making a car fast. what I am saying is that if it where me I would not spend the money on a stand alone when its not entirely needed.... I did read in a previous post that somebody mentioned that they ran thier car at the track and blew to motor after not even 1000 miles yet they stated that it was bue to high boost and not enough fuel and bad cooling sysytem, so what would that have to do with having a stand alone those two have nothing to do with the it. Up grade the fuel pump and injectors and rewire the fule pump to get a constant 12 volts along with an APEXi super AFC will do the trick....... I also read that somebody mentioned that a 12 flat to mid 11's on a steet tire is not fast... well lets remember this is done with stock rear end stock trans with an upgraded clutch / fuel system / cooling / turbo / ECU / Super AFC / boost controller / and a few other things here and there and the fact that the car is daily driven I doubt that there is a FC out there with full interior on a street tire running 10's! but hey I could be worng!!!!
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Old 01-04-04, 03:15 AM
  #60  
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Originally posted by trueimport
I'm not saying that one persons opinion is right and anothers is wrong. We all know the basics when it comes to making power and making a car fast. what I am saying is that if it where me I would not spend the money on a stand alone when its not entirely needed.... I did read in a previous post that somebody mentioned that they ran thier car at the track and blew to motor after not even 1000 miles yet they stated that it was bue to high boost and not enough fuel and bad cooling sysytem, so what would that have to do with having a stand alone those two have nothing to do with the it. Up grade the fuel pump and injectors and rewire the fule pump to get a constant 12 volts along with an APEXi super AFC will do the trick....... I also read that somebody mentioned that a 12 flat to mid 11's on a steet tire is not fast... well lets remember this is done with stock rear end stock trans with an upgraded clutch / fuel system / cooling / turbo / ECU / Super AFC / boost controller / and a few other things here and there and the fact that the car is daily driven I doubt that there is a FC out there with full interior on a street tire running 10's! but hey I could be worng!!!!
I will try and explain my view of an aftermarket engine management system compared to the stock ECU......

First the stock ECU: THese little wonders were made in the early and mid-eighties. You all remember the time when computers ran monitors with 2 or 3 colors and the best thing you could do was play pack man MAYBE! sure fine that has **** to do with an ECU but thats just to give you all a hint of what kind of technology we are running our FC's with. They were designed for Conservative amounts of boost on the stock turbo which is small and the stock IC which is also small but both do the job for the stock power levels as we can all see. The fuel and ignition maps are molded around these components specifically so the car runs well with them.

Ok now the EMS's: These ECU's are designed for a wide range of tweaking, changes, modifications, and alterations. Created with today's latest and greatest in automotive technology. Let me just say I have some background in technology but not much currently. But just to let you all that don't know two decades in technology terms of advancements is throusands of years in human evolution. Its like going from apeman to 21st century man. A NEW computer to run your car will have much greater accuracy/resolution from which you can observe and change parameters to extract more power SAFELY from your car's engine.

Is it worth it? you have to descide for yourself. But if you want my oppinion it is more than worth it. An EMS can change and adapt to whatever you do to the car. A stock ECU is limited to what is embeded in its chips. Even an S-AFC can not change what is already written in the ECU's ROM chips it can only fool it into running a different set of commands for the engine. A different turbo, IC, and port job already ON TOP of bolt on's is to far gone from the stock setup that your ECU is going to be lost and isn't going to know what the hell is going on with the engine.


I would compare it to the engine talking french and the ECU speaking chineese. They just don't know what the f@k is going on and can't mix well so eventually something will go.


Santiago

PS- I don't know if that will help anyone but I hope so.
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Old 01-04-04, 03:54 AM
  #61  
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Originally posted by RETed
I'm sorry, but whenever I see stuff like this, I shake my head.
Single belt on a removed air pump set-up is either going to slip the water pump or kill the alternator bearings (due to over tightened belt).&nbsp; Whatever the case, this is a big no-no...


-Ted
It Is what It Is Ted. Come to think of It, that Is a bit strange that he Is running only one belt. Heck, I always preach the use of 2 Alternator Belts with the absence of the Air Pump. But, whatever.
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Old 01-04-04, 06:05 AM
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Originally posted by turboneticsismychoice
hey, could you pm me with all your insight?
I really don't want to do that, as I'm heavily biased towards Haltech products.&nbsp; I would suggest to peruse the Aftermarket EMS sections on this board to get a broaded view of EMS's available for you...


-Ted
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Old 01-04-04, 06:44 AM
  #63  
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Originally posted by trueimport
...and rewire the fule pump to get a constant 12 volts...
You mean eliminate the relay/resistor? What's the point of that? It's at full voltage under boost anyway. All you're doing it making the engine run richer than it should the other 95% of the time.
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Old 01-04-04, 01:00 PM
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my safc takes good care of the lean mix/ratio, the 1000a pump hols 850 turbocharged hp, and my 1100 and 1600 rc's have no prob throwing in the fuel. and my mech. said the only worry for me is if i overboost it and run it lean. so i'm in good shape there. i really dissagree with the whole stand alone also. because my mech has a old *** stripped down toyota drag car with 14"wide hoosier slicks,same damn build engine as he did on mine and same size turbo and pump. BUT, he doesn't have as large injectors or safc, and he doesn't have the same intake manifold. And the big difference is instead of tha safc he has the haltec system. and he was bitchin and complainin to me because my rx7 put down more dyno hp than his drag car. and i watched him with his laptop just a clickin away on the damn bar graph, changing his idle set and fuel curve and all this junk. and i put down about 75 more hp.However, he gets more WHP because of the huge *** hoosiers. i have 94 rx 16x8.5's. so the haltec isn't the best thing in the world, obviously there are different paths you can take to get more high hp.
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Old 01-04-04, 01:29 PM
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i think it all leads back to how much money you wanna spend on your car. if you have that much money why not get a haltech for more tuning capability.. if you dont.. do what you can with what you have.. and apparently you can get pretty high HP with stock ecu.
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Old 01-04-04, 01:36 PM
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Originally posted by imloggedin
i think it all leads back to how much money you wanna spend on your car. if you have that much money why not get a haltech for more tuning capability.. if you dont.. do what you can with what you have.. and apparently you can get pretty high HP with stock ecu.
exactly
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Old 01-04-04, 02:21 PM
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I'm having trouble believing just about everything in your post...

Last edited by NZConvertible; 01-04-04 at 02:26 PM.
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Old 01-04-04, 03:12 PM
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I wonder if the 22" belt trick still works.

Rumor has it (don't try this at home kids) that a 22" compressor belt can be slipped over the main Pully and water pump pully. It can be slipped on useing an ancient tool, the flathead screwdriver.

But of course, i've never done it and i am unsure if it works. Again, i take no responsibility. ------------Seriously, does this work?

-Markus
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Old 01-04-04, 03:23 PM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
I'm having trouble believing just about everything in your post...
ok. well, i can only tell people the truth and hope to get good inside info. what good would it do to lie about something? then the info wouldn't help at all because it would be about something i didn't even have. think about it.
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Old 01-04-04, 05:39 PM
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Originally posted by turboneticsismychoice
my safc takes good care of the lean mix/ratio, the 1000a pump hols 850 turbocharged hp, and my 1100 and 1600 rc's have no prob throwing in the fuel. and my mech. said the only worry for me is if i overboost it and run it lean. so i'm in good shape there. i really dissagree with the whole stand alone also. because my mech has a old *** stripped down toyota drag car with 14"wide hoosier slicks,same damn build engine as he did on mine and same size turbo and pump. BUT, he doesn't have as large injectors or safc, and he doesn't have the same intake manifold. And the big difference is instead of tha safc he has the haltec system. and he was bitchin and complainin to me because my rx7 put down more dyno hp than his drag car. and i watched him with his laptop just a clickin away on the damn bar graph, changing his idle set and fuel curve and all this junk. and i put down about 75 more hp.However, he gets more WHP because of the huge *** hoosiers. i have 94 rx 16x8.5's. so the haltec isn't the best thing in the world, obviously there are different paths you can take to get more high hp.
Two words:&nbsp; "lost" + "cause"

Please don't make hasty conclusions about Haltech products because your incompetent mechanic couldn't install and tune one correctly.&nbsp; Bad installation and tuning causes 99% of the problems for any aftermarket EMS.&nbsp; Just ask kabooski

I've tuned dozens of Haltech units, and the owners have been all happy with their choice.&nbsp; I do not make any false promises, and the Haltech has delivered all that was promised.

Max power is not exactly the aftermarket EMS's strong point, as someone tuning carbs correctly will make just about the same power.&nbsp; The EMS *WILL* produce better power, as power ACROSS THE RPM BAND will be better/more - try that with a carb or your stock ECU.&nbsp; The one handicap you have with the stock ECU is that you're pretty much stuck with the stock igniton maps; I run very aggressive ignition timing maps on my Haltech installs which really wakes up the engine during daily driving.&nbsp; All owners agree that the cars runs BETTER than a stock ECU during daily driving.


-Ted
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Old 01-04-04, 09:34 PM
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Originally posted by turboneticsismychoice
well, i can only tell people the truth...
1100 and 1600 cc/min injectors and an S-AFC? Yeah, right...

Your mate with the same engine/turbo plus a Haltech makes 75hp less than you? Yeah, right...

I'm not saying that you're lying, just that either you're giving us half the relevant info, or you're just plain wrong.
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Old 01-05-04, 01:03 AM
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like i said earlier, this is an 88 rx7 scca race car!!!!!!! NOT A CRAPPY DAILY DRIVER! call isc racing services in winterhaven fl. ask for mike or david. they built it to their race specs and they have a trophy case as big as a normal shop. 863-324-4539. then you can gey off my back, and give me some respect.
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Old 01-05-04, 01:09 AM
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
1100 and 1600 cc/min injectors and an S-AFC? Yeah, right...

Your mate with the same engine/turbo plus a Haltech makes 75hp less than you? Yeah, right...

I'm not saying that you're lying, just that either you're giving us half the relevant info, or you're just plain wrong.
you also left out what i said about injector differences and manifolds. i also have a nicer boost controller and wastegate. my exhaust and RB exhst manifold are different too. i didn't think i'd have to say all that to get my point accross, but i guess i do. OH, and by the way his is yellow and mine is blue.
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Old 01-05-04, 01:14 AM
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by RETed
[B]Two words:&nbsp; "lost" + "cause"

Please don't make hasty conclusions about Haltech products because your incompetent mechanic couldn't install and tune one correctly

FIRST, don't judge a machanic if you havn't seen his work. and second, who was saying it couldn't do what it should? all i said was there were OTHER WAYS TO GO ABOUT GETTING HIGH HP!. don't get my words twisted.
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Old 01-05-04, 01:18 AM
  #75  
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Ok seriously I wasn't awar that you could affectively tune those injectors with an AFC and what the *** is a 1000a pump? I hope that doesn't mean 1000 amp pump becase your a little off your rocker about that. And seriously with all the previous posts I have seen from you your worse than me. Atleast I try to stay within the bounds of the truth and what I know.
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